First ascent of Chamlang’s North Face : a masterful new line by French Charles Dubouloz and Benjamin Védrines

Chamlang ©Dubouloz-Védrines

Benjamin Védrines and Charles Dubouloz can be pleased with their route. The two Frenchmen took just four days to climb the north face of Chamlang (7,319 m) and descend its west ridge. Their seamless, alpine style ascent of a magnificent new line on this sought-after peak, which Védrines had already climbed via its north-east face, is a superb achievement. Speaking by telephone from Kathmandu, Charles Dubouloz describes what was undoubtedly one of the most elegant ascents in the Himalayas this year.

He may not have seen a single cloud throughout the expedition, but Charles Dubouloz, now back in Kathmandu, is on cloud nine. And not only because he has realised his dream of climbing in the Himalaya. During a short trip lasting barely a month, he and Benjamin Védrines have produced one of the year’s best routes, climbed alpine style, that is, without fixed ropes or logistical support. This