{"id":295320,"date":"2024-11-22T16:39:00","date_gmt":"2024-11-21T17:55:22","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/jirishanca-une-histoire-bien-tournee\/"},"modified":"2024-11-27T14:50:17","modified_gmt":"2024-11-27T13:50:17","slug":"jirishanca-the-story-behind-the-film","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/jirishanca-the-story-behind-the-film\/","title":{"rendered":"Jirishanca, the story behind the film"},"content":{"rendered":"

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Jirishanca is the new film about Josh Warton and Vince Anderson’s superb ascent of the summit of the same name in Peru. Spectacular images that fuel rave reviews on YouTube, but a narrative that omits one of the two roped parties at the summit that same day, at the same time. [Article updated on Nov. 27th]<\/strong><\/h2>\n

[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”800px” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font_size=”18px” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n

I<\/span>t’s one of the most fantastic peaks in the Huayhuash mountain range. Jirishanca, in Peru’s Andes, is a coveted jewel, a summit that has seen the best mountaineers come and go (or break their teeth). American climber Josh Wharton has been making exceptional ascents for years. As we discover in this film recounting his 2022 ascent of Jirishanca with Vince Anderson (who climbed the Rupal side of Nanga Parbat in alpine style), his experience of fatherhood mixed with the visible effects of climate change made him ask himself some questions before setting off. With rope-mate Vince Anderson, they set off on the Italian route opened in 2003, unfinished, after having themselves attempted the ascent in 2019, without reaching the summit.<\/p>\n

On July 23, 2022, two separate roped parties – Americans Josh Wharton and Vince Anderson on one side, Canadians Quentin Roberts and Alik Berg on the other – succeeded in climbing two routes on the 6,094-metre summit of Jirishanca, at virtually the same time but by two different routes. Hence the incongruity of having two roped parties at exactly the same time on a summit that sees very few of them.<\/p>\n

[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/smith_d_1625_BP_DigitalOnly.jpg” title_text=”smith_d_1625_BP_DigitalOnly” _builder_version=”4.24.2″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font=”Merriweather|900|||||||” text_font_size=”16″ custom_margin=”-17px||||false|false” border_style=”solid” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n

Jirishanca south east face. The 2003 French route climbs the main pillar directly, while the Italian route completed by Warton and Anderson goes further to the right and the east. The Canadian route, Reino Hongo, goes on the left pillar then the left ridge to the summit. \u00a9Smith \/ Patagonia<\/p>\n

[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font_size=”18px” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n

As we wrote (article here<\/a> in French) in 2022, once again, commentators (of the film just released as well as those of 2022) are a little quick to forget the feat of two Frenchmen, Aymeric Clouet and Didier Jourdain, who in 2003 achieved a major first on the East Face, which will be repeated in 2017 (without the summit a priori). Sometimes it’s good to remember that before social networks, climbers were achieving major firsts…<\/p>\n

Not only does the film omit the history of this face, but, more embarrassingly, it also omits the Canadians’ ascent on the same day. Spectacular though it may be, the final aerial shot of the rope party at the summit seems to have been well chosen, since only Warton and Anderson are at the summit, while we can make out a trace to the left (theirs comes from the right) and no one else, while the photo below shows the Canadian rope party reaching the summit at the same time.<\/p>\n

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The two roped parties at the summit. Canadian climber Alik Berg is on the left, emerging from a new route started on the South-East face and completed by the South ridge. The two Americans, in red, are on the right, coming off the East Ridge. \u00a9Smith \/ Patagonia<\/p>\n

[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=”1_2″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/patagonia_smith_jirishanca_NEW-15.jpg” title_text=”patagonia_smith_jirishanca_NEW-15″ force_fullwidth=”on” _builder_version=”4.24.2″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font=”Merriweather|900|||||||” text_font_size=”16″ custom_margin=”-17px||||false|false” border_style=”solid” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n

Video capture. There’s only one team left, but the other team’s tracks are visible. \u00a9 Smith \/ Patagonia<\/p>\n

[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”800px” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font_size=”18px” hover_enabled=”0″ saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]<\/p>\n

Update November 27:<\/strong><\/p>\n

Quentin Roberts’ fellow climber, Alik Berg, wrote a post<\/a> on instagram.<\/p>\n

\u201cThe producers had to make some tough decisions when editing the otherwise spectacular summit footage, and I can respect that. However, altering the images to this extent does not strike me as sincere to the viewer, since the film is presented as a documentary.\u201d Alik Berg concludes, \u201cThe whole time Josh and Vince were [at the summit], I was too. So yes, the drone footage showing Josh and Vince at the summit was edited to remove the third person,\u201d namely himself.<\/p>\n

In the commentary, director Josh Lowell explains his choice to erase Alik Berg from the summit: \u201cfor the story of Josh and Vince\u2019s climb, it was very distracting to suddenly see another person on the summit<\/span>. (…) It would have required a lot of explanation at the very end of the film, (…) so we made the decision to avoid showing Alik<\/span>. (…) It was purely to keep the story streamlined and preserve the emotional climax of the final minute of the film rather than confuse the ending with new characters and explanations. <\/span>\u201d<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

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Jirishanca is the new film about Josh Warton and Vince Anderson’s superb…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":24,"featured_media":295321,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"[et_pb_section fb_built=\"1\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" background_size=\"initial\" background_position=\"top_left\" background_repeat=\"repeat\" max_width=\"1200px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" header_font=\"|on|||\" header_2_line_height=\"1.2em\" text_orientation=\"center\" module_alignment=\"center\" hover_enabled=\"0\" header_font_size_tablet=\"\" header_font_size_phone=\"16px\" header_font_size_last_edited=\"on|desktop\" header_2_font_size_tablet=\"\" header_2_font_size_phone=\"20px\" header_2_font_size_last_edited=\"on|phone\" text_orientation_tablet=\"center\" text_orientation_phone=\"left\" text_orientation_last_edited=\"on|desktop\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" theme_builder_area=\"post_content\" sticky_enabled=\"0\"]\n

Jirishanca, c'est un nouveau film qui raconte la superbe ascension de Josh Warton et Vince Anderson sur le sommet du m\u00eame nom au P\u00e9rou. Des images spectaculaires qui alimentent des commentaires dithyrambiques sur youtube, mais une narration qui omet une des deux cord\u00e9es au sommet ce jour-l\u00e0.<\/strong><\/h2>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font_size=\"18px\" hover_enabled=\"0\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" sticky_enabled=\"0\"]\n\n[dropcap size=big]C[\/dropcap]'est l'un des plus fantastiques sommets d'une cha\u00eene qui en compte beaucoup, la cordill\u00e8re Huayhuash. Le Jirishanca, dans les Andes du P\u00e9rou, est un bijou convoit\u00e9, un sommet qui a vu d\u00e9filer (ou se casser les dents) les meilleurs alpinistes. L'am\u00e9ricain Josh Wharton est peut-\u00eatre peu connu mais depuis des ann\u00e9es, il encha\u00eene des ascensions exceptionnelles. Comme on le d\u00e9couvre dans ce film racontant son ascension du Jirishanca avec Vince Anderson (qui a gravi le versant Rupal du Nanga Parbat en style alpin), son exp\u00e9rience de la paternit\u00e9 m\u00eal\u00e9e aux effets visibles du changement climatique lui font se poser des questions avant le d\u00e9part. Avec son compagnon de cord\u00e9e Vince Anderson, ils se lancent dans la voie italienne ouverte en 2003, inachev\u00e9e, apr\u00e8s avoir eux-m\u00eame tent\u00e9 cette ascension en 2019, sans parvenir \u00e0 la cime.\n\nLe 23 juillet 2022, deux cord\u00e9es distinctes \u2013 les Am\u00e9ricains Josh Wharton et Vince Anderson d'un c\u00f4t\u00e9, les Canadiens Quentin Roberts et Alik Berg de l'autre \u2013 ont r\u00e9ussi, pratiquement en m\u00eame temps mais par deux voies diff\u00e9rentes, deux voies sur le Jirishanca, sommet de 6 094 m\u00e8tres. D'o\u00f9 l'incongruit\u00e9 d'avoir deux cord\u00e9es pile en m\u00eame temps sur un sommet qui en voit tr\u00e8s peu.\n\n[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/smith_d_1625_BP_DigitalOnly.jpg\" title_text=\"smith_d_1625_BP_DigitalOnly\" _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" _module_preset=\"default\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"-17px||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nJirishanca face est (voir les trac\u00e9s ici<\/a>). La voie fran\u00e7aise remonte le pilier directement, la voie italienne emprunt\u00e9e par Warton et Anderson passe plus \u00e0 droite. \u00a9Smith \/ Anderson\n\n[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font_size=\"18px\" hover_enabled=\"0\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" sticky_enabled=\"0\"]\n\nComme nous l'avons \u00e9crit en 2022, une fois de plus, les commentateurs (du film qui vient de sortir comme ceux de 2022) oublient un peu vite l'exploit des deux fran\u00e7ais Aymeric Clouet et Didier Jourdain<\/a> qui en 2003, justement, sortaient une premi\u00e8re majeure en face Est, qui sera r\u00e9p\u00e9t\u00e9e en 2017 (sans le sommet a priori). Il est bon parfois de se rem\u00e9morer qu'avant les r\u00e9seaux sociaux les alpinistes r\u00e9alisaient de grandes premi\u00e8res...\n\nNon seulement le film fait l'impasse sur l'historique de cette face, mais, plus emb\u00eatant, il fait l'impasse sur l'ascension des Canadiens le m\u00eame jour. Au demeurant spectaculaire, le plan a\u00e9rien final de la cord\u00e9e au sommet semble avoir \u00e9t\u00e9 bien choisi, puisque seuls Warton et Anderson sont au sommet tandis qu'on distingue une trace \u00e0 gauche (la leur vient de la droite) et personne d'autre alors que la photo ci-dessous montre la cord\u00e9e canadienne atteindre le sommet en m\u00eame temps.\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" background_size=\"initial\" background_position=\"top_left\" background_repeat=\"repeat\" max_width=\"1200px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" column_structure=\"1_2,1_2\"][et_pb_column type=\"1_2\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/smith_d_1647_BP_DigitalOnly.jpg\" title_text=\"smith_d_1647_BP_DigitalOnly\" _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" _module_preset=\"default\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"-17px||||false|false\" hover_enabled=\"0\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" sticky_enabled=\"0\"]\n\nLes deux cord\u00e9es au sommet. L'alpiniste canadien Alix Berg est \u00e0 gauche, et sort d'une nouvelle voie d\u00e9marr\u00e9e en face Sud-Est, et achev\u00e9e par l'ar\u00eate sud. Les deux Am\u00e9ricains, en rouge, sont \u00e0 droite, et sortent de l'ar\u00eate Est. \u00a9Smith \/ Patagonia\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=\"1_2\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/patagonia_smith_jirishanca_NEW-15.jpg\" title_text=\"patagonia_smith_jirishanca_NEW-15\" _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" _module_preset=\"default\" hover_enabled=\"0\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" sticky_enabled=\"0\" force_fullwidth=\"on\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"-17px||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nCapture de la vid\u00e9o \u00e0 30'00. Il n'y a plus qu'une cord\u00e9e, mais la trace de l'autre cord\u00e9e est visible. \u00a9Smith \/ Patagonia\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font_size=\"18px\" hover_enabled=\"0\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" sticky_enabled=\"0\"]\n\nSoit la vid\u00e9o est retouch\u00e9e, soit l'op\u00e9rateur de drone (et la cord\u00e9e am\u00e9ricaine) avait le temps d'attendre (et le drone de remonter) pour faire la vid\u00e9o sans la cord\u00e9e canadienne dans le film... En sachant que les Am\u00e9ricains sont descendus les premiers (selon le r\u00e9cit de Vince Anderson<\/a> sur l'AAJ) et que les quatre alpinistes sont descendus par la voie emprunt\u00e9e par les Am\u00e9ricains (ce que confirme le r\u00e9cit de Quentin Roberts<\/a> sur l'AAJ), que sont devenus les Canadiens sur la vid\u00e9o ?\n\nAnderson raconte que \u00ab le Jirishanca \u00e9tait rest\u00e9 pr\u00e8s de 20 ans sans que personne ne se tienne sur son sommet, et l\u00e0, en l'espace de quelques minutes, nous sommes devenus seulement la quatri\u00e8me et la cinqui\u00e8me \u00e9quipe \u00e0 le faire par sa face la plus difficile. C'\u00e9tait un moment extraordinaire !<\/em> \u00bb\n\nQuoi qu'il en soit, il n'est pas fair play d'avoir choisi dans le film d'ignorer la pr\u00e9sence de l'autre cord\u00e9e au sommet.\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" background_size=\"initial\" background_position=\"top_left\" background_repeat=\"repeat\" max_width=\"1200px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_video src=\"https:\/\/youtu.be\/rzlLT-je9jg?si=TImhPaLgODUxu9Em\" _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_video][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[549,20,787],"tags":[757,797],"class_list":["post-295320","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-andes","category-mountaineering","category-video","tag-andes","tag-peru"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/295320","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/24"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=295320"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/295320\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":295349,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/295320\/revisions\/295349"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/295321"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=295320"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=295320"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=295320"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}