[et_pb_section fb_built=”1″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_margin_tablet=”” custom_margin_phone=”” custom_margin_last_edited=”on|desktop” custom_padding=”1px||||false|false” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”800px” module_alignment=”center” custom_margin_tablet=”” custom_margin_phone=”” custom_margin_last_edited=”on|phone” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font_size=”18px” hover_enabled=”0″ z_index_tablet=”500″ global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]<\/p>\n
1.<\/span> Special Mention<\/strong>. For the past two years, women have been entitled to a special mention at the Piolets d’Or awards. This year, it’s Italian Nives Meroi who receives it \u201cfor women’s mountaineering\u201d, in this case for all her achievements and for her presence in the roped party that climbed the West Face of Kabru South (7318 m) in 2023, with her husband Romano Benet, Slovak Peter H\u00e1mor and Slovenian Bojan Jan. Above all, Nives Meroi is the third woman to have climbed all fourteen 8000 m summits.<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font_size=”18px” hover_enabled=”0″ z_index_tablet=”500″ global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]<\/p>\n 2.<\/span> The Piolet d’Or in posthumous title<\/strong>. In July 2023, the Japanese team of Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima made the first ascent of the north face of Tirich Mir, The Secret Line, at 7,708 m. a.s.l. in the Hindu Kush, north-west Pakistan. The route was long, complex and extremely challenging, requiring them to climb (and descend) from a col at 6,200 m. before being able to climb the north face of Tirich Mir. Sadly, the Japanese team did not receive the Piolet d’Or they were awarded this year: Hiraide and Nakajima died on K2 a year later – last summer – while attempting a new route on the West Face. Hiraide’s and Nakajima’s widows attended the Piolets d’Or ceremony in the Dolomites.<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/12\/kazuya-hiraide-kenro-nakajima-tirich-mir.jpg” title_text=”kazuya-hiraide-kenro-nakajima-tirich-mir” align=”center” _builder_version=”4.24.2″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font=”Merriweather|900|||||||” text_font_size=”16″ custom_margin=”-16px||||false|false” border_style=”solid” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n Kazuya Hiraide Kenro Nakajima \u00a9Coll. Piolets d’Or<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font_size=”18px” hover_enabled=”0″ z_index_tablet=”500″ global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]<\/p>\n 3.<\/span> A\u00a0Piolet d’Or for young people<\/strong>? That’s the feat of the three young Swiss mountaineers who were awarded one of this year’s three Piolet d’Or for their daring ascent of Flat Top, a 6000-meter peak in the Indian Himalayas – in Kishtwar, to be precise – whose north face is extremely steep. Aged between 24 and 28, the three young Swiss guides spent 3 bivouacs on the face before reaching the summit, and at the cost of a single bivouac on the descent, they came down safely.<\/p>\n As the Piolets d’Or jury pointed out, an \u201celegant and technically challenging line in a region little visited in the last 40 years\u201d even if the AAJ mentions an attempt in 2017. In fact, two of the three Swiss, Hugo and Matthias, climbed Chomochior (6278 m) in 2022, in the same Kishtwar massif – which gave them the idea of returning. And pick up a Piolet d’Or.<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/12\/Matthias_Gribi_ItinraireFlatTop1-scaled.jpg” title_text=”Matthias_Gribi_ItinraireFlatTop1″ align=”center” _builder_version=”4.24.2″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font=”Merriweather|900|||||||” text_font_size=”16″ custom_margin=”-16px||||false|false” hover_enabled=”0″ border_style=”solid” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]<\/p>\n India, Flat Top, 2023 Swiss route. \u00a9Coll. Piolets d’Or<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font_size=”18px” hover_enabled=”0″ z_index_tablet=”500″ global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]<\/p>\n 4.<\/span> The rectified Piolet d’Or<\/strong>. Two piolets d’or for the same face, but not the same era. In October 2023, Americans Jackson Marvell, Alan Rousseau and Matt Cornell climbed the North Face of Jannu (7,710m) in alpine style. This was the Americans’ third attempt, and this time they achieved one of the finest ascents of the decade. It takes a good memory, or a search of the Internet, to remember that the North Face of Jannu has seen a few other teams, one of whom traced a futuristic route right down the center of the face, at the cost of considerable resources that had little to do with alpine style… and a very controversial piolet d’or at the end.<\/p>\n Indeed, almost two decades earlier, a more direct route had been mapped out in the middle of Jannu’s north face by a Russian team (Odintsov, Bolotov and co.), who were awarded the Piolet d’Or 2004 for this technically demanding ascent (fixed ropes, oxygen) but curiously forgotten by commentators. French Montagnes Magazine’s Piolets d’Or 2024 article featured a photo of the 2004 Russian route instead of the 2024 American one. Oops.<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/12\/jannu-face-nord.jpg” title_text=”jannu-face-nord” align=”center” _builder_version=”4.24.2″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font=”Merriweather|900|||||||” text_font_size=”16″ custom_margin=”-17px||||false|false” hover_enabled=”0″ border_style=”solid” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]<\/p>\n Jannu. Russian route, 2004. From Montagnes Mag website.<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font_size=”18px” hover_enabled=”0″ z_index_tablet=”500″ global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]<\/p>\n 5.<\/span> A Piolet d’Or Carriere<\/strong>, but not a career-minded one. Unlike his climbing companion on K2 (and namesake for his first name, Jordi Tosas), Spain’s Jordi Corominas has an anemic Instagram, at least not in keeping with his impressive career, which saw him awarded the Piolet d’Or Carri\u00e8re, a delicate exercise which consists of raising a climber judged to be excellent – and still alive – to the level of Bonatti (the first recipient). No mean feat.<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" 1. Special Mention. For the past two years, women have been entitled to a…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":295362,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"[et_pb_section fb_built=\"1\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_margin_tablet=\"\" custom_margin_phone=\"\" custom_margin_last_edited=\"on|desktop\" custom_padding=\"1px||||false|false\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" module_alignment=\"center\" custom_margin_tablet=\"\" custom_margin_phone=\"\" custom_margin_last_edited=\"on|phone\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font_size=\"18px\" z_index_tablet=\"500\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n [dropcap size=big]1.[\/dropcap] La mention sp\u00e9ciale<\/strong>. Les femmes ont droit \u00e0 une mention sp\u00e9ciale<\/em> depuis deux ans aux Piolets d'Or. Cette ann\u00e9e, c'est l'italienne Nives Meroi qui la re\u00e7oit \u00ab pour l'alpinisme f\u00e9minin \u00bb, en l'occurence pour l'ensemble de ses r\u00e9alisations et pour sa pr\u00e9sence dans la cord\u00e9e qui a gravi la face ouest du Kabru South (7318 m) en 2023, avec son mari Romano Benet, le slovaque Peter H\u00e1mor et le slov\u00e8ne Bojan Jan. Nives Meroi est surtout la troisi\u00e8me femme \u00e0 avoir gravi les quatorze 8000.<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font_size=\"18px\" hover_enabled=\"0\" z_index_tablet=\"500\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" sticky_enabled=\"0\"]\n [dropcap size=big]2.[\/dropcap] Le Piolet d'Or \u00e0 titre posthume<\/strong>. La cord\u00e9e japonaise form\u00e9e de Kazuya Hiraide et Kenro Nakajima ont r\u00e9alis\u00e9 en juillet 2023 la premi\u00e8re ascension de la face nord du Tirich Mir,\u00a0The Secret Line<\/i>, \u00e0 7 708 m\u00e8tres d'altitude dans l'Hindu Kush, au nord-ouest du Pakistan, une voie longue, complexe, et extr\u00eamement engag\u00e9e puisqu'il leur a fallu gravir (et redescendre) d'un col \u00e0 6200 m. avant de pouvoir gravir la face nord du Tirich Mir. H\u00e9las, la cord\u00e9e japonaise n'aura pu recevoir le piolet d'or qui leur a \u00e9t\u00e9 d\u00e9cern\u00e9 cette ann\u00e9e : Hiraide et Nakajima sont morts au K2, un an plus tard - l'\u00e9t\u00e9 dernier - en tentant une nouvelle voie en face ouest. Ce sont les veuves de Hiraide et Nakajima qui ont fait le d\u00e9placement \u00e0 la c\u00e9r\u00e9monie des Piolets d'Or dans les Dolomites.<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/12\/kazuya-hiraide-kenro-nakajima-tirich-mir.jpg\" title_text=\"kazuya-hiraide-kenro-nakajima-tirich-mir\" align=\"center\" _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" _module_preset=\"default\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"-16px||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nKazuya Hiraide Kenro Nakajima \u00a9Coll. Piolets d'Or\n\n[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font_size=\"18px\" z_index_tablet=\"500\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n [dropcap size=big]3.[\/dropcap] Le Piolet d'Or jeunes<\/strong> ? C'est en tous cas le tour de force des trois jeunes alpinistes suisses qui ont re\u00e7u l'un des trois piolets d'or cette ann\u00e9e pour leur ascension audacieuse du Flat Top, un 6000 de l'Himalaya indien - du Kishtwar pour \u00eatre pr\u00e9cis - dont la face nord est extr\u00eamement raide. \u00c2g\u00e9s de 24 \u00e0 28 ans, les trois jeunes guides suisses ont pass\u00e9 3 bivouacs dans la face avant d'atteindre le sommet et au prix d'un seul bivouac \u00e0 la descente et ils sont redescendus sans encombre.<\/p>\n Comme le souligne le jury des Piolets d'Or, une \u00ab ligne \u00e9l\u00e9gante et techniquement difficile dans une r\u00e9gion peu visit\u00e9e au cours des 40 derni\u00e8res ann\u00e9es<\/em> \u00bb m\u00eame si l'AAJ mentionne une tentative en 2017. En fait, deux des trois Suisses, Hugo et Matthias, ont gravi le Chomochior (6278 m) en 2022, dans le m\u00eame massif du Kishtwar - ce qui leur a donn\u00e9 l'id\u00e9e d'y revenir. Et p\u00e9cho un piolet d'or.<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/12\/Matthias_Gribi_ItinraireFlatTop1-scaled.jpg\" title_text=\"Matthias_Gribi_ItinraireFlatTop1\" align=\"center\" _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" _module_preset=\"default\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"-16px||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nLa face nord du Flat Top, en Inde, et la voie de 2023. \u00a9Coll. Piolets d'Or\n\n[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font_size=\"18px\" z_index_tablet=\"500\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n [dropcap size=big]4.[\/dropcap] Le piolet d'or rectifi\u00e9<\/strong>. Deux piolets d'or pour la m\u00eame face, mais pas la m\u00eame \u00e9poque. En octobre 2023, les am\u00e9ricains Jackson Marvell, Alan Rousseau et Matt Cornell viennent \u00e0 bout de la face nord du Jannu (7 710m) en style alpin. C'est la troisi\u00e8me tentative des Am\u00e9ricains et cette fois ils signent une des plus belles ascensions de la d\u00e9cennie. Il faut avoir bonne m\u00e9moire ou fouiller les tr\u00e9fonds d'internet pour se souvenir que la face nord du Jannu a vu passer quelques autres \u00e9quipes, dont une tra\u00e7a une voie futuriste en plein centre de la face, au prix de gros moyens peu en rapport avec le style alpin... et un piolet d'or pol\u00e9mique \u00e0 l'arriv\u00e9e.<\/p>\n En effet, presque deux d\u00e9cennies plus t\u00f4t, une voie plus directe \u00e9tait trac\u00e9e au milieu de la face nord du Jannu par une \u00e9quipe russe<\/a> (Odintsov, Bolotov et cie), qui a re\u00e7u le Piolet d'Or 2004 pour cette ascension en technique lourde (cordes fixes, oxyg\u00e8ne) mais curieusement oubli\u00e9e des commentateurs. Signalons que Montagnes Magazine<\/em> pour son article Piolets d'Or 2024 a ressorti la photo de la voie russe de 2004 en lieu et place de celle des Am\u00e9ricains de 2024. Oups.<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/12\/jannu-face-nord.jpg\" title_text=\"jannu-face-nord\" align=\"center\" _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" _module_preset=\"default\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"-17px||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nLa face nord du Jannu, et la voie russe de 2004. Source Montagnes Mag.\n\n[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font_size=\"18px\" z_index_tablet=\"500\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n [dropcap size=big]5.[\/dropcap] Un piolet d'or carri\u00e8re mais pas carri\u00e9riste<\/strong>. Contrairement \u00e0 son compagnon de cord\u00e9e au K2 (et homonyme pour le pr\u00e9nom, Jordi Tosas), l'espagnol Jordi Corominas<\/a> n'a qu'un instagram an\u00e9mique, en tous cas pas en rapport avec son impressionnante carri\u00e8re qui le voit r\u00e9compens\u00e9 du piolet d'or Carri\u00e8re, d\u00e9licat exercice qui consiste \u00e0 hisser au niveau de Bonatti (le premier r\u00e9cipiendaire) un alpiniste jug\u00e9 excellent, et encore vivant. Pas une mince affaire.<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[20,11],"tags":[35,229],"class_list":["post-295361","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-mountaineering","category-world","tag-himalayas","tag-piolets-dor"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/295361","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=295361"}],"version-history":[{"count":8,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/295361\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":295372,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/295361\/revisions\/295372"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/295362"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=295361"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=295361"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=295361"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}