{"id":295373,"date":"2024-12-26T23:59:12","date_gmt":"2024-12-26T16:18:06","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/lobstination-de-leverest-en-solo-et-en-hiver-de-jost-kobusch\/"},"modified":"2024-12-27T00:23:07","modified_gmt":"2024-12-26T23:23:07","slug":"jost-kobuschs-determination-everest-solo-winter","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/jost-kobuschs-determination-everest-solo-winter\/","title":{"rendered":"Jost Kobusch’s determination Everest solo in winter"},"content":{"rendered":"\n[et_pb_section fb_built=”1″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_margin_tablet=”” custom_margin_phone=”” custom_margin_last_edited=”on|desktop” custom_padding=”1px||||false|false” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.22.1″ _module_preset=”default” max_width=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.22.1″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/alpine.quotes-02.png” title_text=”alpine.quotes-02″ align=”center” show_bottom_space_tablet=”” show_bottom_space_phone=”” show_bottom_space_last_edited=”on|phone” align_tablet=”center” align_phone=”” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” _builder_version=”4.22.1″ max_width=”50%” max_width_tablet=”” max_width_phone=”100%” max_width_last_edited=”on|desktop” module_alignment=”center” custom_margin=”||-40px||false|false” custom_margin_tablet=”” custom_margin_phone=”0px||-40px||false|false” custom_margin_last_edited=”on|phone” custom_padding=”0px||||false|false” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.22.1″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”800px” module_alignment=”center” custom_margin_tablet=”” custom_margin_phone=”” custom_margin_last_edited=”on|phone” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font_size=”18px” z_index_tablet=”500″ global_colors_info=”{}”]

A<\/span>mong the host of Everest ascents and a list of increasingly various records, there remains one never-before-done climb that really deserves attention. It meets four criteria that can only be described as ultimate: solo, in winter, without supplementary oxygen and by a route other than the normal one. Although climbs have already been made in each of these categories, the combination of the four criteria remains unique.<\/p>\n

Such an ascent seems so daring that the looks on the face of the pretender to such a feat, Germany’s Jost Kobusch, are often perplexed, not to say condescending. How could the 32-year-old mountaineer achieve such a feat?<\/p>\n

Although he has already made a number of noteworthy ascents, including the first of Nangpa\u00ef Gossum II (7296 m, Nepal), Annapurna (8091 m) without supplementary oxygen and, more recently, Denali, solo and in winter, Kobusch is not one of those hyper-active mountaineers whose many adventures can be followed on a regular basis. Nor is he a mountain guide.<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/12\/kobusch-tracking-dec24.jpg” title_text=”kobusch-tracking-dec24″ show_bottom_space=”off” align=”center” _builder_version=”4.24.2″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font=”Merriweather|900|||||||” text_font_size=”16″ custom_margin=”||||false|false” border_style=”solid” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}”]

Screenshot of Jost Kobusch’s real-time GPS tracking from his website<\/a>\u00a0on December 26, 2024.<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font_size=”18px” z_index_tablet=”500″ global_colors_info=”{}”]

In fact, the most seasoned Himalayan climbers don’t mince their words. In an Arte documentary filmed in 2019, David Goettler tells Kobusch that he finds him very presumptuous given his meagre Himalayan experience, and gives him a lordly 0.1% chance of reaching 6,000m. Worse still, Reinhold Messner himself considers Kobusch to be just a \u201cPR man\u201d. Cruel is the battle of the Ancients and the Moderns, even in mountaineering. Yet didn’t Goettler’s faithful climbing companion, Herv\u00e9 Barmasse, say that \u201cstyle is more important than the summit<\/em>\u201d?<\/p>\n

As I write these lines, Kobusch is back at the deserted Everest base camp for the 3rd time, accompanied by a handful of Sherpas for the portage to base camp and cooking, but without fixed ropes or oxygen cylinders beyond. The climber is already at an altitude of 7,000 m, above Lho La, on his way to Everest’s West Ridge.<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=”#000000″ quote_icon_background_color=”#ffffff” _builder_version=”4.24.2″ body_font=”Oswald|700||on|||||” body_text_align=”center” body_text_color=”#000000″ body_font_size=”30″ use_background_color=”off” custom_margin=”50px||||false|false” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}”]

Does he really hope to reach the top?<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”800px” module_alignment=”center” custom_margin_tablet=”” custom_margin_phone=”” custom_margin_last_edited=”on|phone” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font_size=”18px” z_index_tablet=”500″ global_colors_info=”{}”]

Since his first attempt in winter 2019-2020, Kobusch has been determined to make further progress on this ridge. But does he really hope to reach the summit? Does he really believe he can succeed? Who knows? Treading the Hornbein couloir, which should lead him to the summit, would already be quite a feat alone and in winter. But the base of the couloir is at 8000 m. And this year, Kobush says he’s already aiming for 7500 m, surpassing not only his previous highest point, but also the highest ever reached on this ridge in winter (by Frenchmen Benoit Chamoux and Vincent Fine, 7500 m in 1985).<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=”#000000″ quote_icon_background_color=”#ffffff” _builder_version=”4.24.2″ body_font=”Oswald|700||on|||||” body_text_align=”center” body_text_color=”#000000″ body_font_size=”30″ use_background_color=”off” custom_margin=”50px||||false|false” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}”]

the young German stands out
in the highly codified world of Himalayan climbing<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font_size=”18px” z_index_tablet=”500″ global_colors_info=”{}”]

The young German stands out in the highly codified world of Himalayan climbing, but we can’t help but respect his determination. In 2019, he declared that he wanted to \u201cgo\u00a0into the unknown<\/em>\u201d, \u201cpractice true mountaineering<\/em>\u201d and attempt Everest \u201cbecause it’s the highest peak on earth<\/em>\u201d. Which is, after all, a good definition of exploration, of alpine style, and one that boldly assumes the enduring fascination with the highest peak on earth.
These days, one man alone on Everest, even if he comes back empty-handed, is worth a hundred more in the Guinness Book of Records.<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Among the host of Everest ascents and a list of increasingly various records,…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":295374,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"[et_pb_section fb_built=\"1\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_margin_tablet=\"\" custom_margin_phone=\"\" custom_margin_last_edited=\"on|desktop\" custom_padding=\"1px||||false|false\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" _module_preset=\"default\" max_width=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" _module_preset=\"default\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/alpine.quotes-02.png\" title_text=\"alpine.quotes-02\" align=\"center\" show_bottom_space_tablet=\"\" show_bottom_space_phone=\"\" show_bottom_space_last_edited=\"on|phone\" align_tablet=\"center\" align_phone=\"\" align_last_edited=\"on|desktop\" _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" max_width=\"50%\" max_width_tablet=\"\" max_width_phone=\"100%\" max_width_last_edited=\"on|desktop\" module_alignment=\"center\" custom_margin=\"||-40px||false|false\" custom_margin_tablet=\"\" custom_margin_phone=\"0px||-40px||false|false\" custom_margin_last_edited=\"on|phone\" custom_padding=\"0px||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" _module_preset=\"default\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" module_alignment=\"center\" custom_margin_tablet=\"\" custom_margin_phone=\"\" custom_margin_last_edited=\"on|phone\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font_size=\"18px\" z_index_tablet=\"500\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n

[dropcap size=big]P[\/dropcap]armi la foule d\u2019ascensions de l\u2019Everest et une liste de records de plus en plus capillo-tract\u00e9s, il reste une ascension jamais r\u00e9alis\u00e9e et qui m\u00e9rite l\u2019attention. Celle-ci r\u00e9unit quatre crit\u00e8res que l\u2019on peut qualifier d\u2019ultimes : en solo, en hiver, sans oxyg\u00e8ne compl\u00e9mentaire et par une voie diff\u00e9rente de la voie normale. Si des ascensions ont d\u00e9j\u00e0 \u00e9t\u00e9 r\u00e9alis\u00e9es dans chacune des cat\u00e9gories, la combinaison des quatre crit\u00e8res reste unique.<\/p>\nUne telle ascension parait tellement os\u00e9e que les regards port\u00e9s sur le pr\u00e9tendant \u00e0 une telle prouesse, l\u2019Allemand Jost Kobusch, sont souvent perplexes, pour ne pas dire condescendants. Comment le jeune alpiniste de 32 ans pourrait-il r\u00e9aliser un tel exploit ?\nS\u2019il a d\u00e9j\u00e0 r\u00e9alis\u00e9 quelques ascensions notables, notamment la premi\u00e8re du Nangpa\u00ef Gossum II (7296 m, N\u00e9pal), celle de l\u2019Annapurna (8091 m) sans oxyg\u00e8ne compl\u00e9mentaire ou plus r\u00e9cemment le Denali en solitaire et en hiver, Kobusch ne fait pas partie de ces alpinistes hyper-actifs dont on peut suivre les nombreuses aventures tr\u00e8s r\u00e9guli\u00e8rement. Il n\u2019est pas non plus guide de haute montagne.\n\n[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/12\/kobusch-tracking-dec24.jpg\" title_text=\"kobusch-tracking-dec24\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" _module_preset=\"default\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nCapture d'\u00e9cran du suivi GPS en temps r\u00e9el de Jost Kobusch, le 26 d\u00e9cembre 2024, depuis\u00a0son site internet<\/a>.\n\n[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font_size=\"18px\" z_index_tablet=\"500\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nD\u2019ailleurs, les plus aguerris des himalayistes n\u2019y vont pas de main morte. Dans un documentaire de la chaine Arte<\/a>, tourn\u00e9 en 2019, David Goettler r\u00e9pond \u00e0 Kobusch qu\u2019il le trouve tr\u00e8s pr\u00e9somptueux vu sa maigre exp\u00e9rience himalayenne et lui donne, grand seigneur, 0,1% de chances d\u2019atteindre les 6000 m. Pire, Reinhold Messner lui-m\u00eame consid\u00e8re Kobusch comme un communiquant tout juste bon pour les \u00ab relations publiques<\/em> \u00bb. Cruel est le combat des Anciens et des Modernes, m\u00eame en alpinisme. Pourtant, un fid\u00e8le compagnon de cord\u00e9e de Goettler, Herv\u00e9 Barmasse, ne disait-il pas que \u00ab le style est plus important que le sommet<\/em> \u00bb ?\u00a0<\/span>\n\n\u00c0 l\u2019heure o\u00f9 j\u2019\u00e9cris ces lignes, Kobusch est de retour au camp de base d\u00e9sert\u00e9 de l\u2019Everest pour la 3e fois, accompagn\u00e9 d\u2019une poign\u00e9e de Sherpas pour le portage jusqu\u2019au camp de base et la cuisine, mais sans cordes fixes ou bouteilles d\u2019oxyg\u00e8ne au-del\u00e0. L\u2019alpiniste se trouve m\u00eame d\u00e9j\u00e0 \u00e0 7000 m d\u2019altitude, au-dessus du Lho La, en route vers l\u2019ar\u00eate ouest de l\u2019Everest.\u00a0<\/span>\n\n[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=\"#000000\" quote_icon_background_color=\"#ffffff\" _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" body_font=\"Oswald|700||on|||||\" body_text_align=\"center\" body_text_color=\"#000000\" body_font_size=\"30\" use_background_color=\"off\" custom_margin=\"50px||||false|false\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nesp\u00e8re t-il vraiment atteindre le sommet ?\n\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" module_alignment=\"center\" custom_margin_tablet=\"\" custom_margin_phone=\"\" custom_margin_last_edited=\"on|phone\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font_size=\"18px\" z_index_tablet=\"500\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n

Depuis sa premi\u00e8re tentative \u00e0 l\u2019hiver 2019-2020, Kobusch n\u2019a eu de cesse de vouloir encore progresser sur cette ar\u00eate. Pourtant, esp\u00e8re t-il vraiment atteindre le sommet ? Croit-il sinc\u00e8rement pouvoir r\u00e9ussir ? Allez savoir. Fouler le couloir Hornbein, qui doit le mener vers le sommet serait d\u00e9j\u00e0 une sacr\u00e9e performance seul et en hiver. Mais la base du couloir est \u00e0 8000 m. Et cette ann\u00e9e, Kobush annonce vouloir d\u00e9j\u00e0 atteindre les 7500 m et d\u00e9passer ainsi son point le plus haut atteint pr\u00e9c\u00e9demment, mais aussi le plus \u00e9lev\u00e9 jamais atteint en hiver sur cette ar\u00eate (par les Fran\u00e7ais Benoit Chamoux et Vincent Fine, 7500 m en 1985).<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=\"#000000\" quote_icon_background_color=\"#ffffff\" _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" body_font=\"Oswald|700||on|||||\" body_text_align=\"center\" body_text_color=\"#000000\" body_font_size=\"30\" use_background_color=\"off\" custom_margin=\"50px||||false|false\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nle jeune Allemand d\u00e9note\ndans le monde tr\u00e8s codifi\u00e9 de l\u2019himalayisme\n\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font_size=\"18px\" z_index_tablet=\"500\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nSi le jeune Allemand d\u00e9note dans le monde tr\u00e8s codifi\u00e9 de l\u2019himalayisme, on ne peut qu\u2019\u00e9prouver du respect face \u00e0 sa d\u00e9termination. Il d\u00e9clarait en 2019 vouloir \u00ab plonger dans l\u2019inconnu<\/em>\u00a0\u00bb, \u00ab\u00a0pratiquer le vrai alpinisme<\/em>\u00a0\u00bb et tenter l\u2019Everest \u00ab\u00a0parce que c\u2019est le plus haut sommet de la terre<\/em> \u00bb. Ce qui est finalement une bonne d\u00e9finition de l\u2019exploration, du style alpin, et qui assume avec audace l\u2019immuable fascination pour le plus haut sommet de la terre.\nPar les temps qui courent, un homme seul sur l\u2019Everest, m\u00eame de retour bredouille, en vaut bien cent autres dans le Guiness book des records.\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[16,9],"tags":[68,143,268,108,126],"class_list":["post-295373","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-editorial","category-himalayas","tag-everest","tag-himalaya","tag-jost-kobusch","tag-solo","tag-winter"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/295373","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=295373"}],"version-history":[{"count":8,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/295373\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":295385,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/295373\/revisions\/295385"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/295374"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=295373"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=295373"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=295373"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}