{"id":296422,"date":"2025-12-02T12:31:09","date_gmt":"2025-12-02T11:31:09","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/23-jours-en-paroi-lascension-magistrale-de-sasha-digiulian-sur-el-capitan\/"},"modified":"2025-12-02T16:44:35","modified_gmt":"2025-12-02T15:44:35","slug":"el-capitan-sasha-digiulian-free-climbing-23-days-platinum","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/el-capitan-sasha-digiulian-free-climbing-23-days-platinum\/","title":{"rendered":"A 23-day single push to free climb El Capitan: Sasha DiGiulian’s masterful ascent"},"content":{"rendered":"","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"","protected":false},"author":24,"featured_media":296423,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"[et_pb_section fb_built=\"1\" _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" custom_padding=\"4px||0px||false|false\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" background_size=\"initial\" background_position=\"top_left\" background_repeat=\"repeat\" custom_padding=\"11px|||||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" header_font=\"|on|||\" header_2_line_height=\"1.2em\" text_orientation=\"center\" module_alignment=\"center\" hover_enabled=\"0\" header_font_size_tablet=\"\" header_font_size_phone=\"16px\" header_font_size_last_edited=\"on|desktop\" header_2_font_size_tablet=\"\" header_2_font_size_phone=\"20px\" header_2_font_size_last_edited=\"on|phone\" text_orientation_tablet=\"center\" text_orientation_phone=\"left\" text_orientation_last_edited=\"on|desktop\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" sticky_enabled=\"0\"]\n

La mythique paroi d'El Capitan a une nouvelle reine : Sasha DiGiulian. L'Am\u00e9ricaine vient de passer 23 jours en paroi pour gravir en libre la voie Platinum, 39 longueurs jusqu'au 8b. Il s'agit de la premi\u00e8re f\u00e9minine en libre de cette voie ouverte en 2016. Son acharnement a pay\u00e9, apr\u00e8s plusieurs tentatives, et neuf jours coinc\u00e9e en paroi sous la pluie. Sur les traces de Lynn Hill, <\/strong>Sasha DiGiulian prouve que les femmes n'ont pas fini de renouveler l'escalade au Yosemite.<\/strong><\/h2>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=\"1\" _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" custom_margin=\"0px||||false|false\" custom_margin_tablet=\"0px||||false|false\" custom_margin_phone=\"0px||||false|false\" custom_margin_last_edited=\"on|phone\" custom_padding=\"1px||||false|false\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" max_width=\"800px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font_size=\"18px\" hover_enabled=\"0\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" sticky_enabled=\"0\"]\n\n[dropcap size=big]C[\/dropcap]'est une \u00e9preuve d'endurance que tr\u00e8s peu de grimpeurs ont un jour exp\u00e9riment\u00e9 - particuli\u00e8rement pour lib\u00e9rer une voie sur El Capitan. Ex-comp\u00e9titrice, Sasha DiGiulian a r\u00e9ussi en libre El Capitan par la voie Platinum<\/em>, un monstre de mille m\u00e8tres dont la cotation va jusqu'au 5.13d, voire 5.14a, soit un gros 8b en cotation fran\u00e7aise. Le 26 novembre Sasha DiGiulian a atteint le sommet d'El Capitan apr\u00e8s avoir pass\u00e9 vingt-trois jours dans la paroi, pour gravir une \u00e0 une les 39 longueurs de la voie, et en escalade libre.\n\n\u00ab Apr\u00e8s 32 longueurs, j'ai d\u00fb attendre neuf jours qu'une temp\u00eate passe<\/em> \u00bb dans un portaledge double accroch\u00e9 \u00e0 700 m\u00e8tres du sol, raconte Sasha DiGiulian, qui \u00e9tait coinc\u00e9e avec son compagnon de cord\u00e9e Elliot Faber. Celui-ci a d\u00fb ensuite descendre pour raison familiale et c'est avec Ryan Sheridan que Sasha DiGiulian a achev\u00e9 cette qu\u00eate entam\u00e9e il y a plusieurs saisons. Et apr\u00e8s une s\u00e9rie d'interventions chirurgicales en 2021, on peut dire que Sasha a r\u00e9ussi son come-back.\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" width_tablet=\"\" width_phone=\"\" width_last_edited=\"on|phone\" max_width=\"600px\" max_width_tablet=\"\" max_width_phone=\"300px\" max_width_last_edited=\"on|phone\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_divider color=\"#000000\" _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" min_height=\"1px\" custom_margin=\"||-10px||false|false\" custom_margin_tablet=\"||-10px||false|false\" custom_margin_phone=\"||-10px||false|false\" custom_margin_last_edited=\"on|phone\" custom_padding=\"||0px|||\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_divider][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font=\"||||||||\" text_font_size=\"18px\" link_font=\"||||||||\" link_text_color=\"#edb72f\" custom_padding=\"0px|||||\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n

Lire aussi<\/strong><\/h3>\nGirl Climber, la revanche de Emily Harrington sur El Capitan<\/a>\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"1200px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/SI202512010425-scaled.jpg\" title_text=\"Sasha DiGiulian\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" width=\"100%\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\n\u00a9Pablo Durana \/ Red Bull Content Pool\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_margin=\"-1px|auto||auto||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=\"#000000\" quote_icon_background_color=\"#ffffff\" _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" body_font=\"Oswald|700||on|||||\" body_text_align=\"center\" body_text_color=\"#000000\" body_font_size=\"30\" use_background_color=\"off\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nCette ascension de Sasha DiGiulian est un authentique exploit\n\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" custom_padding=\"0|0px||0px|false|false\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font_size=\"18px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nCette ascension est un authentique exploit qui tient autant \u00e0 la tenacit\u00e9, qu'\u00e0 l'endurance et la patience dont a d\u00fb faire preuve Sasha DiGiulian. Le crux en 8b\/8b+ est en effet tout en haut, c'est la 34\u00e8me longueur de la voie... qu'elle a fini par encha\u00eener malgr\u00e9 les cascades d'eau qui tombaient des trois derni\u00e8res longueurs ! L'avant-avant-derni\u00e8re longueur de la voie vaut 5.13a, soit 7c+, encha\u00een\u00e9e le 26 gr\u00e2ce au retour du soleil qui a s\u00e9ch\u00e9 la paroi.\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=\"2_3,1_3\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"1200px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"2_3\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/SI202512010417-scaled.jpg\" title_text=\"Sasha DiGiulian\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" width=\"100%\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nSasha DiGiulian le 25 novembre dans Platinum \u00a9 Pablo Durana \/ Red Bull Content\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=\"1_3\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/aaj-13201214580-1523920521.jpg\" title_text=\"aaj-13201214580-1523920521\" _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" _module_preset=\"default\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"-17px||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nLe trac\u00e9 de Platinum \u00a9 Rob Miller \/ AAJ\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" custom_padding=\"0|0px||0px|false|false\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font_size=\"18px\" hover_enabled=\"0\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" sticky_enabled=\"0\"]\n\nLa voie choisie par Sasha DiGiulian, Platinum<\/strong><\/em>, n'est pas une classique, loin de l\u00e0. Son histoire vaut le d\u00e9tour - comme racont\u00e9 par l'AAJ, alias l'American Alpine Journal.<\/a> Ses ouvreurs, Elliot Faber et Rob Miller, ont pass\u00e9 plusieurs ann\u00e9es \u00e0 d\u00e9fricher cet itin\u00e9raire qui se situe entre Freeblast<\/em> (Salath\u00e9<\/em> partie basse) et le Nose<\/em>, suivant (de loin) la Triple Directe<\/em> (en artif) pour sortir par le Muir Wall<\/em> (ouf). Vous suivez ?\n\nElliot Faber n'est autre que le compagnon de cord\u00e9e qui a accompagn\u00e9 Sasha DiGiulian dans sa qu\u00eate. En l'occurence, en 2016, les grimpeurs ont r\u00e9ussi \u00e0 gravir les 39 longueurs de Platinum, mais comme le pr\u00e9cise l'AAJ, en changeant de leader : c'\u00e9tait donc une \u00ab team free ascent \u00bb.\n\nL'ann\u00e9e suivante, en 2017, la premi\u00e8re en libre d'une traite a \u00e9t\u00e9 r\u00e9alis\u00e9 par Rob Miller et le suisse R. Rudolph en 14 jours, puis une \u00e0 deux cord\u00e9es ont r\u00e9ussi la voie depuis. Sasha DiGiulian r\u00e9alise donc la premi\u00e8re f\u00e9minine et la troisi\u00e8me ou quatri\u00e8me ascension en libre.\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_margin=\"-1px|auto||auto||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=\"#000000\" quote_icon_background_color=\"#ffffff\" _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" body_font=\"Oswald|700||on|||||\" body_text_align=\"center\" body_text_color=\"#000000\" body_font_size=\"30\" use_background_color=\"off\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" hover_enabled=\"0\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" sticky_enabled=\"0\"]\n\nPlatinum, 39 longueurs, et seulement 3 ou 4 ascensions enti\u00e8res en libre avec celle de Sasha\n\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"1200px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/SI202512010412-scaled.jpg\" title_text=\"Sasha DiGiulian\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" width=\"100%\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nSasha dans un crux en 5.13\n\u00a9Pablo Durana \/ Red Bull Content Pool\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" custom_padding=\"0|0px||0px|false|false\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font_size=\"18px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n

El Capitan au f\u00e9minin<\/strong><\/h2>\nLa plus haute paroi d'El Capitan voit une nouvelle g\u00e9n\u00e9ration de grimpeuses innover avec panache. C'est bien s\u00fbr Lynn Hill<\/strong> qui en 1993 r\u00e9ussissait la premi\u00e8re en libre - tous genres confondus - du Nose. Une ascension marquante que Lynn r\u00e9ussira \u00e0 refaire en moins de 24 heures en 1994. Depuis, la nouvelle g\u00e9n\u00e9ration a repris le flambeau : Emily Harrington<\/strong>, elle aussi ex-comp\u00e9titrice a r\u00e9ussi Golden Gate (8a) en 2020, le film relatant son ascension, Girl Climber<\/a>, vient de sortir.\n\nLa fran\u00e7aise Soline Kentzel<\/strong> a elle aussi gravi Golden gate<\/a> en 2022, tandis qu'une autre grimpeuse a fait irruption au milieu du \"boy's club\" (expression d'Emily Harrington) : la fran\u00e7aise Laura Pineau<\/strong>, qui a r\u00e9ussi la Triple Crown<\/a> avec une grimpeuse am\u00e9ricaine.\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=\"1_2,1_2\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"1200px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"1_2\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/SI202512010396-scaled.jpg\" title_text=\"Sasha DiGulian\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" width=\"100%\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\n\u00a9Christian Pondella \/ Red Bull Content Pool\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=\"1_2\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/SI202512010402-scaled.jpg\" title_text=\"Sasha DiGulian\" _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" _module_preset=\"default\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"-29px||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nSasha DiGiulian, heureuse, au sommet d'El Cap. \u00a9Christian Pondella \/ Red Bull Content Pool\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" custom_padding=\"0|0px||0px|false|false\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font_size=\"18px\" hover_enabled=\"0\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" sticky_enabled=\"0\"]\n\nEx-comp\u00e9titrice ayant atteint le niveau 9a, Sasha DiGiulian s'est tourn\u00e9e vers les grandes voies il y a plusieurs ann\u00e9es; Elle a notamment r\u00e9ussit Bellavista<\/em>, la voie d'Alex Huber aux Tre Cime di Lavaredo, avec un toit en 8c plein gaz. plus r\u00e9cemment, elle a gravi Rayu<\/em> aux Picos de Europa, une grande voie des fr\u00e8res Pou en 8c max, accompagn\u00e9e de Matilda Soderlund et Brette Harrington.\n\nAvec la premi\u00e8re f\u00e9minine en libre de Platinum<\/em>, Sasha DiGiulian atteint, \u00e0 33 ans, le Graal des grimpeurs modernes : lib\u00e9rer une voie sur El Capitan et son kilom\u00e8tre-\u00e9talon de granite.\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[19,12],"tags":[102,103],"class_list":["post-296422","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","post-password-required","hentry","category-climbing","category-subscribers","tag-el-capitan","tag-yosemite","rcp-is-restricted","rcp-no-access"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/296422","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/24"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=296422"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/296422\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":296428,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/296422\/revisions\/296428"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/296423"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=296422"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=296422"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=296422"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}