{"id":296736,"date":"2026-03-31T14:45:27","date_gmt":"2026-03-31T12:45:27","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/the-dark-wizard-le-portrait-de-dean-potter-legende-du-yosemite\/"},"modified":"2026-04-01T10:40:36","modified_gmt":"2026-04-01T08:40:36","slug":"the-dark-wizard-dean-potter-hbo-serie-yosemite","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/the-dark-wizard-dean-potter-hbo-serie-yosemite\/","title":{"rendered":"The Dark Wizard, Dean Potter, the Yosemite legendary climber, a new HBO serie"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>[et_pb_section fb_built=&#8221;1&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; max_width=&#8221;800px&#8221; use_custom_width=&#8221;on&#8221; custom_width_px=&#8221;800&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.5&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;18px&#8221; hover_enabled=&#8221;0&#8243; saved_tabs=&#8221;all&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; sticky_enabled=&#8221;0&#8243;]<\/p>\n<p><span class=\"cb-dropcap-big\">T<\/span><strong>he Dark Wizard : <\/strong>this is the title of a four-part documentary series HBO has dedicated to Yosemite legend Dean Potter, who died in a wingsuit accident in 2015. A gifted climber and lover of breathtaking solo ascents, Dean Potter is one of the most radical figures in the history of climbing and Yosemite\u2014a history that is certainly no stranger to such figures.<\/p>\n<p>Premiering on April 14 and directed by Peter Mortimer (The Alpinist) and Nick Rosen, the series promises to be a portrait of an extraordinary athlete, admired for his daring as much as he was criticized for his excessive penchant for risk.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/deanpotter_HBO_darkwizard.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;deanpotter_HBO_darkwizard&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.5&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.5&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Merriweather|900|||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;16&#8243; custom_margin=&#8221;-12px||||false|false&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221; saved_tabs=&#8221;all&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Dean Potter \u00a9Collection HBO<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.5&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;18px&#8221; hover_enabled=&#8221;0&#8243; saved_tabs=&#8221;all&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; sticky_enabled=&#8221;0&#8243;]<\/p>\n<p>Dean Potter had established himself as an exceptional climber far beyond the climbing community alone. Notably, in 2002, he completed a solo ascent of The Nose on El Capitan in just over four hours, combining free climbing and \u201cFrench free\u201d (artificial climbing), thereby setting a solo record time on this legendary route. He also distinguished himself in full-solo climbing, highlining, and BASE jumping, to the point where, for many, he embodied an extreme form of vertical freedom.<\/p>\n<p>Dean Potter was one of the few to consider the possibility of a fall during full-solo climbing\u2014\u201cfree base\u201d\u2014with a BASE canopy on his back as his means of survival. He thus completed the Deep Blue Sea (7b+) route on the Eiger solo on-sight. He held the speed record for El Capitan (with Sean Leary) and completed the Supercouloir on Fitz Roy solo (in 2006).<\/p>\n<p data-start=\"1631\" data-end=\"2056\">\n[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/dark-wizard-scaled.jpeg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;dark-wizard&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.5&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.5&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Merriweather|900|||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;16&#8243; custom_margin=&#8221;-12px||||false|false&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221; saved_tabs=&#8221;all&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>\u00a9Collection HBO<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; max_width=&#8221;800px&#8221; use_custom_width=&#8221;on&#8221; custom_width_px=&#8221;800&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.5&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;18px&#8221; hover_enabled=&#8221;0&#8243; saved_tabs=&#8221;all&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; sticky_enabled=&#8221;0&#8243;]<\/p>\n<p>But The Dark Wizard doesn\u2019t seem content to settle for a simple tribute. The title pretty much sums up the project\u2019s ambition: to revisit the fascination Potter inspired, the dark side of his genius. A visionary to some, a hothead to others, he always occupied a unique place, constantly pushing the boundaries. He died in 2015 during a wingsuit jump in Yosemite at the age of 43, leaving behind a legacy as immense as it is controversial.<\/p>\n<p>This is undoubtedly where the series finds its strength: in telling not only of his exploits, but also of the inner logic of a man who seemed incapable of living any other way than on the edge. Featuring testimonials from leading climbers such as Alex Honnold and Cedar Wright, *The Dark Wizard* could go beyond a simple narrative to become a nuanced portrait of an icon turned myth.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.5&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;18px&#8221; hover_enabled=&#8221;0&#8243; saved_tabs=&#8221;all&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; sticky_enabled=&#8221;0&#8243;]<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=h7gTjnio7oQ\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Check the video below or the following link&gt;<\/a><\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; background_size=&#8221;initial&#8221; background_position=&#8221;top_left&#8221; background_repeat=&#8221;repeat&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1200px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_video src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=h7gTjnio7oQ&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.5&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_video][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The Dark Wizard : this is the title of a four-part documentary series HBO has&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":296737,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"<p>[et_pb_section fb_built=\"1\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.27.5\" text_font_size=\"18px\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]<\/p>\n<p>[dropcap size=big]T[\/dropcap]<strong>he Dark Wizard<\/strong>, le magicien noir : c'est le titre d'un portrait en quatre \u00e9pisodes que consacre HBO \u00e0 une l\u00e9gende du Yosemite, <strong>Dean Potter<\/strong>, mort en wingsuit en 2015. Grimpeur surdou\u00e9, amateur de solos \u00e9poustouflants, Dean Potter est l'un des figures les plus radicales de l\u2019histoire de l\u2019escalade et du Yosemite, qui pourtant n'en manque pas.<\/p>\n<p>Diffus\u00e9e \u00e0 partir du 14 avril, r\u00e9alis\u00e9e par Peter Mortimer (The Alpinist) et Nick Rosen, elle s\u2019annonce comme le portrait d\u2019un athl\u00e8te hors norme, aussi admir\u00e9 pour son audace que critiqu\u00e9 pour son penchant immod\u00e9r\u00e9 pour le risque.<\/p>\n<p data-start=\"1631\" data-end=\"2056\">\n[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/deanpotter_HBO_darkwizard.jpg\" title_text=\"deanpotter_HBO_darkwizard\" _builder_version=\"4.27.5\" _module_preset=\"default\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.27.5\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"-12px||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]<\/p>\n<p>Dean Potter \u00a9Collection HBO<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.27.5\" text_font_size=\"18px\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]<\/p>\n<p>Dean Potter s\u2019\u00e9tait impos\u00e9 comme un grimpeur d\u2019exception bien au-del\u00e0 du seul milieu de l\u2019escalade. Il a notamment r\u00e9alis\u00e9 l\u2019ascension en solo de le <em>Nose<\/em> sur El Capitan en 2002, en un peu plus de 4 heures, mixant libre et \"french free\" (artif) \u00e9tablissant alors un temps record en solo sur cette voie mythique. Il s\u2019est aussi illustr\u00e9 dans le solo int\u00e9gral, la highline et le BASE jump, au point d\u2019incarner, pour beaucoup, une forme extr\u00eame de libert\u00e9 verticale.<\/p>\n<p>Dean Potter a \u00e9t\u00e9 l'un des rares \u00e0 envisager la chute en solo int\u00e9gral, le \"free base\" avec pour moyen de survie une voile de BASE dans le dos. Il a ainsi r\u00e9alis\u00e9 en solo \u00e0 vue la voie Deep Blue Sea (7b+) \u00e0 l'Eiger. Il a \u00e9t\u00e9 d\u00e9tenteur du record de vitesse d'El Capitan (avec Sean Leary), a r\u00e9alis\u00e9 le Supercouloir du Fitz Roy en solo (en 2006).<\/p>\n<p data-start=\"1631\" data-end=\"2056\">\n[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/dark-wizard-scaled.jpeg\" title_text=\"dark-wizard\" _builder_version=\"4.27.5\" _module_preset=\"default\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.27.5\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"-12px||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]<\/p>\n<p>\u00a9Collection HBO<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.27.5\" text_font_size=\"18px\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]<\/p>\n<p data-start=\"1099\" data-end=\"1629\">Mais <em data-start=\"1104\" data-end=\"1121\">The Dark Wizard<\/em> ne semble pas vouloir se limiter \u00e0 l\u2019hommage basique. Le titre dit assez bien l\u2019ambition du projet : revenir sur la part de fascination que Potter suscitait, la part sombre de son g\u00e9nie. Visionnaire pour les uns, t\u00eate br\u00fbl\u00e9e pour les autres, il a toujours occup\u00e9 une place \u00e0 part, repoussant sans cesse les limites. Mort en 2015 lors d\u2019un saut en wingsuit au Yosemite, \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e2ge de 43 ans, il laisse derri\u00e8re lui un h\u00e9ritage aussi immense que controvers\u00e9.<\/p>\n<p data-start=\"1631\" data-end=\"2056\">C\u2019est sans doute l\u00e0 que la s\u00e9rie peut trouver sa force : raconter non seulement les exploits, mais aussi la logique int\u00e9rieure d\u2019un homme qui semblait incapable de vivre autrement qu\u2019au bord du rupteur. Avec des t\u00e9moignages de grimpeurs majeurs comme Alex Honnold et Cedar Wright, <em data-start=\"1937\" data-end=\"1954\">The Dark Wizard<\/em> pourrait d\u00e9passer le simple r\u00e9cit pour devenir le portrait nuanc\u00e9 d\u2019une ic\u00f4ne devenue mythe... pour de bonnes ou de moins bonnes raisons.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.27.5\" text_font_size=\"18px\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]<\/p>\n<p>Voir le teaser ci-dessous ou <a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=h7gTjnio7oQ\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">au lien suivant &gt;<\/a><\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" background_size=\"initial\" background_position=\"top_left\" background_repeat=\"repeat\" max_width=\"1200px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_video src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=h7gTjnio7oQ\" _builder_version=\"4.27.5\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_video][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]<\/p>\n\n<!-- wp:paragraph -->\n<p><\/p>\n<!-- \/wp:paragraph -->","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[19,787],"tags":[103],"class_list":["post-296736","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climbing","category-video","tag-yosemite"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/296736","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=296736"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/296736\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":296741,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/296736\/revisions\/296741"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/296737"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=296736"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=296736"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=296736"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}