[et_pb_section fb_built=”1″ _builder_version=”4.4.6″ custom_margin_tablet=”” custom_margin_phone=”” custom_margin_last_edited=”on|desktop” custom_padding=”||||false|false”][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.4.6″ max_width=”800px” module_alignment=”center” custom_margin_tablet=”” custom_margin_phone=”” custom_margin_last_edited=”on|phone” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800px”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”3.25″ custom_padding=”|||” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/EDITO.png” align=”center” show_bottom_space_tablet=”” show_bottom_space_phone=”” show_bottom_space_last_edited=”on|phone” align_tablet=”center” align_phone=”” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” _builder_version=”4.4.6″ max_width=”35%” module_alignment=”center” custom_margin=”||||false|false” custom_margin_tablet=”” custom_margin_phone=”0px||0px” custom_margin_last_edited=”on|desktop” custom_padding=”0px||” border_style=”solid”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.9.7″ text_font_size=”16px” header_text_align=”center” background_color=”#ffffff” text_orientation=”justified” module_alignment=”left” custom_padding=”0px|30px|30px|30px||” z_index_tablet=”500″ text_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” text_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” text_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” header_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” header_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” header_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” header_2_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” header_2_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” header_2_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” header_3_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” header_3_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” header_3_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” header_4_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” header_4_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” header_4_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” header_5_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” header_5_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” header_5_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” header_6_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” header_6_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” header_6_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=”0px” box_shadow_vertical_tablet=”0px” box_shadow_blur_tablet=”40px” box_shadow_spread_tablet=”0px”]<\/p>\n
T<\/span>here are missed appointments that leave their mark. In 2015, I had the chance to discover Squamish, where many high-level climbers were invited by their sponsors to gather at the penultimate temple of North American climbing<\/span>. Among them, a certain Marc-Andr\u00e9 Leclerc. However, while it was possible to discuss or climb with personalities such as Will Gadd, Raphael Slawinski or Jason Kruk, the young Leclerc remained unreachable for the journalist looking for an interview.<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/the-alpinist-cover.png” title_text=”the-alpinist-cover” show_in_lightbox=”on” _builder_version=”4.9.7″][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.9.7″ text_font=”Merriweather|900|||||||” text_font_size=”16″ custom_margin=”-7px||||false|false” border_style=”solid” saved_tabs=”all”]<\/p>\n The Alpinist<\/em>, directed by Peter Mortimer, on Netflix US.<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.9.7″ text_font_size=”16px” header_text_align=”center” background_color=”#ffffff” text_orientation=”justified” module_alignment=”left” custom_padding=”30px|30px|30px|30px” z_index_tablet=”500″ text_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” text_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” text_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” header_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” header_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” header_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” header_2_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” header_2_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” header_2_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” header_3_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” header_3_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” header_3_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” header_4_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” header_4_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” header_4_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” header_5_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” header_5_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” header_5_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” header_6_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” header_6_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” header_6_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=”0px” box_shadow_vertical_tablet=”0px” box_shadow_blur_tablet=”40px” box_shadow_spread_tablet=”0px”]<\/p>\n Watching the film, The Alpinist<\/em>, released a few days ago in France, I understand better the reasons for this discretion. Marc-Andr\u00e9 Leclerc was a rare, elusive bird. In 2016, when Sender Films, the “cr\u00e8me de la cr\u00e8me” of mountain films (Valley Uprising, Dawn Wall, Reel Rock) followed him to tell his story, Leclerc disappeared off the radar. This same guy no longer had a mobile phone since the day, “a fox carried it away in a bag also containing smoked salmon”<\/span>.<\/p>\n Using clues collected on social networks as well as his face appearing here and there in photos posted by other climbers, director Peter Mortimer manages to find him. But Leclerc is busy. The year 2016 will see him go down in mountaineering history. First across the Atlantic where he stunned the North American mountaineering community by making a solo ascent of Mount Robson. A monument of Canadian Rocky Mountain mountaineering has just been climbed, onsight please, by what seems to be a new generation of climbers.\u00a0<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=”#000000″ quote_icon_background_color=”#ffffff” _builder_version=”4.9.7″ body_font=”Oswald|700||on|||||” body_text_align=”center” body_text_color=”#000000″ body_font_size=”30px” use_background_color=”off” z_index_tablet=”500″ author_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” author_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” author_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” position_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” position_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” position_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” company_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” company_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” company_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” body_link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” body_link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” body_link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” body_ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” body_ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” body_ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” body_ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” body_ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” body_ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” body_quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” body_quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” body_quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=”0px” box_shadow_vertical_tablet=”0px” box_shadow_blur_tablet=”40px” box_shadow_spread_tablet=”0px” box_shadow_horizontal_image_tablet=”0px” box_shadow_vertical_image_tablet=”0px” box_shadow_blur_image_tablet=”40px” box_shadow_spread_image_tablet=”0px” text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” saved_tabs=”all”]<\/p>\n Marc-Andr\u00e9 Leclerc performs solo [\/et_pb_testimonial][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.9.7″ text_font_size=”16px” header_text_align=”center” background_color=”#ffffff” text_orientation=”justified” module_alignment=”left” custom_padding=”30px|30px|30px|30px” z_index_tablet=”500″ text_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” text_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” text_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” header_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” header_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” header_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” header_2_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” header_2_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” header_2_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” header_3_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” header_3_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” header_3_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” header_4_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” header_4_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” header_4_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” header_5_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” header_5_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” header_5_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” header_6_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” header_6_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” header_6_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=”0px” box_shadow_vertical_tablet=”0px” box_shadow_blur_tablet=”40px” box_shadow_spread_tablet=”0px”]<\/p>\n But guess what? Marc-Andr\u00e9 doesn’t bother to tell the production team: “With someone filming me on the side, even if he doesn’t help me, it’s not the solo I dream of”<\/em>, he explains to the disillusioned director afterwards. Brette Harrington, his partner, confirms: “Marc-Andr\u00e9 won’t waste energy putting himself forward”<\/em>. Peter Mortimer has no choice to accept this temperament and describes it beautifully and without embellishment in the film.\u00a0<\/p>\n We discover Leclerc living as a couple in a stairwell with Harrington or on a winter camping trip between two ice climbing free-solos. Did you say “dirt bag”? The word is too weak. Next to him, Alex Honnold with his van would almost seem like a wealthy man.<\/p>\n Marc-Andr\u00e9 Leclerc practices soloing at a level never seen before, on the rock but also and above all, in mountaineering, ice climbing or in modern dry-tooling. The young Canadian climbs without gloves in the middle of winter in order to be able to sometimes take handholds and mix techniques. He puts his ice axes on ice tubes that one would hardly dare to climb with a rope. The Stanley Wall solo sequence will give you goosebumps.\u00a0The Torre Egger (Patagonia) in winter solo will be his masterpiece.<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=”#000000″ quote_icon_background_color=”#ffffff” _builder_version=”4.9.7″ body_font=”Oswald|700||on|||||” body_text_align=”center” body_text_color=”#000000″ body_font_size=”30px” use_background_color=”off” z_index_tablet=”500″ author_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” author_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” author_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” position_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” position_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” position_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” company_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” company_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” company_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” body_link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” body_link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” body_link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” body_ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” body_ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” body_ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” body_ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” body_ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” body_ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” body_quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” body_quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” body_quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=”0px” box_shadow_vertical_tablet=”0px” box_shadow_blur_tablet=”40px” box_shadow_spread_tablet=”0px” box_shadow_horizontal_image_tablet=”0px” box_shadow_vertical_image_tablet=”0px” box_shadow_blur_image_tablet=”40px” box_shadow_spread_image_tablet=”0px” text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” saved_tabs=”all”]<\/p>\n As if only death [\/et_pb_testimonial][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.9.7″ text_font_size=”16px” header_text_align=”center” background_color=”#ffffff” text_orientation=”justified” module_alignment=”left” custom_padding=”30px|30px|30px|30px” z_index_tablet=”500″ text_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” text_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” text_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” header_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” header_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” header_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” header_2_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” header_2_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” header_2_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” header_3_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” header_3_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” header_3_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” header_4_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” header_4_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” header_4_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” header_5_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” header_5_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” header_5_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” header_6_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” header_6_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” header_6_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=”0px” box_shadow_vertical_tablet=”0px” box_shadow_blur_tablet=”40px” box_shadow_spread_tablet=”0px”]<\/p>\n The question of why, the motivations for the solo, quickly came up. And the bosses of the question are invited to answer: Alex Honnold, of course, but also Reinhold Messner, Will Gadd, Barry Blanchard or the writer Bernadette MacDonald. As is often the case, mountaineering is presented as a means to freedom. The full solo as its absolute.<\/p>\n Brette Harrington and Marc-Andr\u00e9 Leclerc both practiced it. They expressed the need and accepted the risks. To keep going, we understand that it is better not to look down, at the risk of being taken by a paralyzing vertigo. In mountaineering as in life.<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" There are missed appointments that leave their mark. In 2015, I had the chance…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":55366,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":" [et_pb_section fb_built=\"1\" _builder_version=\"4.4.6\" custom_margin_tablet=\"\" custom_margin_phone=\"\" custom_margin_last_edited=\"on|desktop\" custom_padding=\"||||false|false\"][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.4.6\" max_width=\"800px\" module_alignment=\"center\" custom_margin_tablet=\"\" custom_margin_phone=\"\" custom_margin_last_edited=\"on|phone\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"3.25\" custom_padding=\"|||\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/EDITO.png\" align=\"center\" show_bottom_space_tablet=\"\" show_bottom_space_phone=\"\" show_bottom_space_last_edited=\"on|phone\" align_tablet=\"center\" align_phone=\"\" align_last_edited=\"on|desktop\" _builder_version=\"4.4.6\" max_width=\"35%\" module_alignment=\"center\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" custom_margin_tablet=\"\" custom_margin_phone=\"0px||0px\" custom_margin_last_edited=\"on|desktop\" custom_padding=\"0px||\" border_style=\"solid\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.9.7\" text_font_size=\"16px\" header_text_align=\"center\" background_color=\"#ffffff\" text_orientation=\"justified\" module_alignment=\"left\" custom_padding=\"0px|30px|30px|30px||\" z_index_tablet=\"500\" text_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" text_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" text_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_2_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_2_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_2_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_3_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_3_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_3_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_4_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_4_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_4_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_5_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_5_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_5_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_6_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_6_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_6_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_vertical_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_blur_tablet=\"40px\" box_shadow_spread_tablet=\"0px\"]<\/p> [dropcap size=big]I[\/dropcap]l y a des rendez-vous manqu\u00e9s qui vous marquent. En 2015, alors que j\u2019avais la chance de d\u00e9couvrir Squamish, temple de l\u2019escalade nord-am\u00e9ricaine apr\u00e8s le Yosemite, de nombreux alpinistes et grimpeurs de haut niveau \u00e9taient invit\u00e9s dans la petite bourgade de Colombie-Britannique (Canada) par leur sponsor. Parmi eux, un certain Marc-Andr\u00e9 Leclerc. Pourtant, s\u2019il fut possible de discuter ou grimper avec des personnalit\u00e9s telles que Will Gadd, Raphael Slawinski ou Jason Kruk, le jeune Leclerc demeura injoignable pour le journaliste en qu\u00eate d\u2019interview.\u00a0<\/span><\/p> [\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/the-alpinist-cover.png\" title_text=\"the-alpinist-cover\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" _builder_version=\"4.9.7\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.9.7\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"-7px||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\"]<\/p> The Alpinist<\/em>, de Peter Mortimer. \u00c0 voir absolument en ce moment sur Canal+ ou sur Apple TV.<\/p> [\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.9.7\" text_font_size=\"16px\" header_text_align=\"center\" background_color=\"#ffffff\" text_orientation=\"justified\" module_alignment=\"left\" custom_padding=\"30px|30px|30px|30px\" z_index_tablet=\"500\" text_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" text_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" text_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_2_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_2_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_2_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_3_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_3_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_3_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_4_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_4_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_4_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_5_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_5_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_5_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_6_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_6_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_6_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_vertical_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_blur_tablet=\"40px\" box_shadow_spread_tablet=\"0px\"]<\/p> En regardant le film\u00a0The Alpinist,\u00a0<\/i>sorti il y a quelques jours,<\/i>\u00a0je comprends mieux les raisons de cette discr\u00e9tion. Marc-Andr\u00e9 Leclerc \u00e9tait un oiseau rare, insaisissable. En 2016, alors que Sender Films, la cr\u00e8me du film de montagne (Valley Uprising, Dawn Wall<\/em>, les tourn\u00e9es Reel Rock<\/em>) le suit pour raconter son histoire, Leclerc disparait des radars, lui qui n\u2019a plus de portable depuis le jour o\u00f9 \u00ab\u00a0un renard l\u2019a emport\u00e9 dans un sac contenant \u00e9galement du saumon fum\u00e9<\/i>\u00a0\u00bb.<\/p> Au gr\u00e9 d\u2019indices collect\u00e9s sur les r\u00e9seaux sociaux et de sa trombine apparaissant ici ou l\u00e0 sur les photos post\u00e9es par d\u2019autres grimpeurs, le r\u00e9alisateur Peter Mortimer parvient \u00e0 le retrouver. Mais Leclerc est occup\u00e9. Cette ann\u00e9e 2016 va le faire entrer dans l\u2019histoire de l\u2019alpinisme. Outre-Atlantique d\u2019abord, lorsqu\u2019il bluffe le monde de l\u2019alpinisme nord-am\u00e9ricain en r\u00e9alisant l\u2019ascension du mont Robson en solo. Un monument de l\u2019alpinisme des Rocheuses canadiennes vient d\u2019\u00eatre gravi, \u00e0 vue s\u2019il vous plait, par ce qui semble bien \u00eatre une nouvelle g\u00e9n\u00e9ration d\u2019alpinistes.\u00a0<\/span><\/p> [\/et_pb_text][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=\"#000000\" quote_icon_background_color=\"#ffffff\" _builder_version=\"4.9.7\" body_font=\"Oswald|700||on|||||\" body_text_align=\"center\" body_text_color=\"#000000\" body_font_size=\"30px\" use_background_color=\"off\" z_index_tablet=\"500\" author_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" author_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" author_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" position_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" position_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" position_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" company_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" company_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" company_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" body_link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" body_link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" body_link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" body_ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" body_ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" body_ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" body_ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" body_ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" body_ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" body_quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" body_quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" body_quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_vertical_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_blur_tablet=\"40px\" box_shadow_spread_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_horizontal_image_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_vertical_image_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_blur_image_tablet=\"40px\" box_shadow_spread_image_tablet=\"0px\" text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" saved_tabs=\"all\"]<\/p> Marc-Andr\u00e9 Leclerc pratique le solo [\/et_pb_testimonial][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.9.7\" text_font_size=\"16px\" header_text_align=\"center\" background_color=\"#ffffff\" text_orientation=\"justified\" module_alignment=\"left\" custom_padding=\"30px|30px|30px|30px\" z_index_tablet=\"500\" text_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" text_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" text_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_2_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_2_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_2_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_3_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_3_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_3_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_4_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_4_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_4_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_5_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_5_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_5_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_6_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_6_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_6_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_vertical_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_blur_tablet=\"40px\" box_shadow_spread_tablet=\"0px\"]<\/p> Mais devinez quoi ? Marc-Andr\u00e9 ne prend pas la peine de pr\u00e9venir l\u2019\u00e9quipe de production : \u00ab\u00a0Avec quelqu\u2019un \u00e0 c\u00f4t\u00e9 qui me filme, m\u00eame s\u2019il ne m\u2019aide pas, ce n\u2019est plus le solo dont je r\u00eave<\/i>\u00a0\u00bb explique t-il apr\u00e8s coup au r\u00e9alisateur d\u00e9sabus\u00e9. Brette Harrington, sa compagne, confirme alors : \u00ab\u00a0Marc-Andr\u00e9 ne perdra pas d\u2019\u00e9nergie \u00e0 se mettre en avant\u00a0<\/i>\u00bb. Peter Mortimer ne peut qu\u2019accepter ce temp\u00e9rament et va le d\u00e9crire magnifiquement et sans fioritures dans le film.\u00a0<\/span><\/p> On y d\u00e9couvre Leclerc vivant en couple dans une cage d\u2019escalier ou encore en camping hivernal entre deux solos de cascade de glace. Vous avez dit \u00ab\u00a0dirt bag<\/i>\u00a0\u00bb ? Le mot est faible. \u00c0\u00a0c\u00f4t\u00e9, Alex Honnold avec son van am\u00e9nag\u00e9 passerait presque pour un bourgeois.<\/p> Le solo, Marc-Andr\u00e9 Leclerc le pratique \u00e0 un niveau jamais vu auparavant, sur le rocher mais aussi et surtout en alpinisme ou encore en cascade de glace ou en dry-tooling moderne. Le jeune canadien grimpe sans gants en plein hiver pour pouvoir prendre parfois des prises de main et mixer les techniques. Il pose les piolets sur des gla\u00e7ons qu\u2019on oserait \u00e0 peine gravir avec une corde. La s\u00e9quence du solo du Stanley Wall vous donnera la chair de poule.\u00a0La Torre Egger (Patagonie) en solo hivernal sera son chef-d'oeuvre.<\/span><\/p> [\/et_pb_text][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=\"#000000\" quote_icon_background_color=\"#ffffff\" _builder_version=\"4.9.7\" body_font=\"Oswald|700||on|||||\" body_text_align=\"center\" body_text_color=\"#000000\" body_font_size=\"30px\" use_background_color=\"off\" z_index_tablet=\"500\" author_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" author_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" author_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" position_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" position_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" position_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" company_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" company_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" company_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" body_link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" body_link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" body_link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" body_ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" body_ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" body_ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" body_ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" body_ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" body_ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" body_quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" body_quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" body_quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_vertical_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_blur_tablet=\"40px\" box_shadow_spread_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_horizontal_image_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_vertical_image_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_blur_image_tablet=\"40px\" box_shadow_spread_image_tablet=\"0px\" text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" saved_tabs=\"all\"]<\/p> Comme si seule la mort [\/et_pb_testimonial][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.9.7\" text_font_size=\"16px\" header_text_align=\"center\" background_color=\"#ffffff\" text_orientation=\"justified\" module_alignment=\"left\" custom_padding=\"30px|30px|30px|30px\" z_index_tablet=\"500\" text_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" text_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" text_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_2_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_2_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_2_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_3_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_3_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_3_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_4_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_4_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_4_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_5_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_5_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_5_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_6_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_6_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_6_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_vertical_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_blur_tablet=\"40px\" box_shadow_spread_tablet=\"0px\"]<\/p> Rapidement, la question du pourquoi, des motivations du solo, arrive sur le tapis. Et les boss de la question sont invit\u00e9s \u00e0 r\u00e9pondre : Alex Honnold bien s\u00fbr, mais aussi Reinhold Messner, Will Gadd, Barry Blanchard ou encore l\u2019\u00e9crivaine Bernadette MacDonald. Comme souvent l\u2019alpinisme est pr\u00e9sent\u00e9 comme un moyen de la libert\u00e9. Le solo int\u00e9gral comme son absolu.\u00a0<\/span><\/p> Brette Harrington et Marc-Andr\u00e9 Leclerc le pratiquaient tous les deux. Ils en exprimaient le besoin et en acceptaient les risques. Pour continuer \u00e0 avancer, on comprend que mieux vaut ne pas regarder en bas, au risque d\u2019\u00eatre pris d\u2019un vertige t\u00e9tanisant. En alpinisme comme dans la vie.\u00a0<\/span><\/p> [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]<\/p>","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[15,16,20],"tags":[135,275,108],"class_list":["post-55365","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-culture","category-editorial","category-mountaineering","tag-cinema","tag-marc-andre-leclerc","tag-solo"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/55365","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=55365"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/55365\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/55366"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=55365"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=55365"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=55365"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
to a level never seen before<\/p>\n
could make free solo
tangible<\/p>\n
Yet the tearful Brette, devastated by the disappearance of her soul mate a little later in the film, is nevertheless overwhelmed by this fatal outcome, which is nevertheless perfectly integrated into her daily life. But there is no voyeurism here. This dramatic realization counterbalances the chivalrous stereotypes of the solo, often displayed in current productions. Here, brutality is reality. As if only death could make free solo tangible.<\/p>\n
\u00e0 un niveau jamais vu auparavant<\/p>
pouvait rendre tangible
le solo int\u00e9gral<\/p>
Pourtant, la Brette en larmes, effondr\u00e9e par la disparition de son \u00e2me-soeur un peu plus loin dans le film, est malgr\u00e9 tout terrass\u00e9e par cette issue fatale, pourtant parfaitement int\u00e9gr\u00e9e dans son quotidien. Mais nul voyeurisme ici. Cette prise de conscience dramatique vient contrebalancer les st\u00e9r\u00e9otypes chevaleresques du solo, souvent d\u00e9ball\u00e9s dans les productions actuelles. Ici, brutalit\u00e9 est r\u00e9alit\u00e9. Comme si seule la mort pouvait rendre tangible le solo int\u00e9gral.<\/p>