{"id":56026,"date":"2022-01-02T12:00:00","date_gmt":"2022-01-02T11:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/helias-millerioux-toujours-en-fuite\/"},"modified":"2022-11-01T15:07:43","modified_gmt":"2022-11-01T14:07:43","slug":"matteo-della-bodella-italian-patagonia","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/matteo-della-bodella-italian-patagonia\/","title":{"rendered":"Matteo Della Bordella: The Italian of Patagonia"},"content":{"rendered":"\n[et_pb_section fb_built=&#8221;1&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_margin_tablet=&#8221;&#8221; custom_margin_phone=&#8221;&#8221; custom_margin_last_edited=&#8221;on|desktop&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;4px||||false|false&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; max_width=&#8221;800px&#8221; module_alignment=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin_tablet=&#8221;&#8221; custom_margin_phone=&#8221;&#8221; custom_margin_last_edited=&#8221;on|phone&#8221; use_custom_width=&#8221;on&#8221; custom_width_px=&#8221;800px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.17.3&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;16px&#8221; header_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; background_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; text_orientation=&#8221;justified&#8221; module_alignment=&#8221;left&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|30px|30px|30px||&#8221; hover_enabled=&#8221;0&#8243; z_index_tablet=&#8221;500&#8243; text_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; text_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; text_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_2_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_2_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_2_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_3_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_3_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_3_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_4_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_4_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_4_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_5_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_5_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_5_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_6_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_6_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_6_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_vertical_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_blur_tablet=&#8221;40px&#8221; box_shadow_spread_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; sticky_enabled=&#8221;0&#8243;]<p><span class=\"cb-dropcap-big\">I<\/span>t took three expeditions and 150 days of climbing for Matteo Della Bordella to climb the west face of Torre Egger, in Patagonia. He finally succeeded on the route in 2013, climbing with Matteo Bernasconi, who died in an avalanche in 2020. Della Bordella was back in South America in January 2022 to climb a new route on Cerro Torre (<em>Brothers in Arms<\/em>, 1,200 m, 7a, A2, 90\u00b0) with two members of his Ragni di Lecco collective, David Bacci and Matteo De Zaiacomo.<\/p>\n<p>Back at the foot of their route, they immediately joined a rescue party to help Tom\u00e0s Aguil\u00f3 and Korra Pesce, who had been injured by a huge rock and ice fall as they descended the north face. After rescuing Tom\u00e0s, intense cold and fatigue forced Matteo to descend before they could reach Korra, who died of hypothermia while trapped on the face with multiple fractures.<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.17.3&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;16px&#8221; header_text_color=&#8221;#000000&#8243; hover_enabled=&#8221;0&#8243; saved_tabs=&#8221;all&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; sticky_enabled=&#8221;0&#8243;]<h4><strong>Age : 38\u00a0<\/strong><br \/><strong>Country : Italia<\/strong><\/h4>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>It took three expeditions and 150 days of climbing for Matteo Della Bordella&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":57762,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"[et_pb_section fb_built=\"1\" _builder_version=\"4.4.6\" custom_margin_tablet=\"\" custom_margin_phone=\"\" custom_margin_last_edited=\"on|desktop\" custom_padding=\"4px||||false|false\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.4.6\" max_width=\"800px\" module_alignment=\"center\" custom_margin_tablet=\"\" custom_margin_phone=\"\" custom_margin_last_edited=\"on|phone\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"3.25\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.14.7\" text_font_size=\"16px\" header_text_align=\"center\" background_color=\"#ffffff\" text_orientation=\"justified\" module_alignment=\"left\" custom_padding=\"0px|30px|30px|30px||\" hover_enabled=\"0\" z_index_tablet=\"500\" text_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" text_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" text_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_2_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_2_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_2_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_3_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_3_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_3_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_4_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_4_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_4_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_5_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_5_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_5_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_6_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_6_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_6_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_vertical_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_blur_tablet=\"40px\" box_shadow_spread_tablet=\"0px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" sticky_enabled=\"0\"]\n\n[dropcap size=big]L[\/dropcap]<span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u2019\u00e9t\u00e9 dernier, il a encha\u00een\u00e9 deux succ\u00e8s en quelques semaines au Pakistan, d\u2019abord avec Yannick Graziani et Patrick Wagnon sur le Diran (7266 m) en style alpin. Puis ce fut au tour du Rakaposhi de se faire avaler par les Fran\u00e7ais (sans Graziani cette fois). Mais il fallait avoir un bon estomac pour en dig\u00e9rer l\u2019ar\u00eate sud-ouest de 8 km, plus interminable qu\u2019un repas de famille. Il faut croire que depuis Zabardast (<a href=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/zabardast-le-film-complet\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">film comp<\/a><\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/zabardast-le-film-complet\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">let ici<\/a>), H\u00e9lias ne sait plus se d\u00e9faire du Pakistan.<\/span>\n\n<span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Plus proche de nous, on a vu H\u00e9lias ratisser les pentes raides des Pyr\u00e9n\u00e9es avec Pierre Hourticq dans une vid\u00e9o sortie fin 2021 et nomm\u00e9e <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/sauvatge-voyage-grand-ski-helias-millerioux-pierre-hourticq\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Sauvatge<\/a>. <\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/piolets-dor-2018-trois-ascensions-honorees-en-pologne\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Le Piolet d\u2019or 2018<\/a> n\u2019a pas perdu de sa superbe depuis le braquage du Nuptse, juste sa moustache.&nbsp;<\/span>\n\n[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.14.6\" text_font_size=\"16px\" header_text_color=\"#000000\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n<h4><strong>\u00c2ge : 34 ans<\/strong>\n<strong>Pays : France<\/strong><\/h4>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=\"3_5,2_5\" use_custom_gutter=\"on\" gutter_width=\"1\" _builder_version=\"4.9.7\" _module_preset=\"default\" background_color=\"#242424\" width=\"100%\" width_tablet=\"\" width_phone=\"\" width_last_edited=\"on|phone\" max_width=\"800px\" min_height=\"50px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"3_5\" _builder_version=\"4.9.7\" _module_preset=\"default\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.9.7\" text_font_size=\"16px\" header_3_text_color=\"#000000\" header_4_text_color=\"#FFFFFF\" text_orientation=\"center\" module_alignment=\"center\" custom_margin=\"10px||||false|false\" 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