{"id":56060,"date":"2022-01-01T05:00:00","date_gmt":"2022-01-01T04:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/sean-villanueva-odriscoll-tout-le-fitz-roy-en-une-fois\/"},"modified":"2022-11-01T15:07:44","modified_gmt":"2022-11-01T14:07:44","slug":"sean-villanueva-odriscoll-fitz-roy-integrale","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/sean-villanueva-odriscoll-fitz-roy-integrale\/","title":{"rendered":"Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll: Fitz Roy integrale"},"content":{"rendered":"\n[et_pb_section fb_built=”1″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_margin_tablet=”” custom_margin_phone=”” custom_margin_last_edited=”on|desktop” custom_padding=”4px||||false|false” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”800px” module_alignment=”center” custom_margin_tablet=”” custom_margin_phone=”” custom_margin_last_edited=”on|phone” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.17.3″ text_font_size=”16px” header_text_align=”center” background_color=”#ffffff” text_orientation=”justified” module_alignment=”left” custom_padding=”0px|30px|30px|30px||” hover_enabled=”0″ z_index_tablet=”500″ text_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” text_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” text_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” header_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” header_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” header_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” header_2_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” header_2_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” header_2_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” header_3_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” header_3_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” header_3_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” header_4_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” header_4_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” header_4_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” header_5_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” header_5_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” header_5_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” header_6_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=”0px” header_6_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=”0px” header_6_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=”1px” box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=”0px” box_shadow_vertical_tablet=”0px” box_shadow_blur_tablet=”40px” box_shadow_spread_tablet=”0px” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

T<\/span>he most Patagonian of Belgians caused a stir in the climbing world in February 2021 by completing the first solo south-north traverse of the Fitz Roy range in six days.<\/p>\n

The Moonwalk Traverse<\/em> involves climbing Aguja Guillaumet, Aguja Mermoz, Cerro Fitz Roy, Aguja Poincenot, Aguja Rafael Juarez, Aguja Saint-Exup\u00e9ry and Aguja de l\u2019S. Villanueva\u2019s traverse covered the same ground as the north-south route climbed by Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold seven years earlier, but did it in the opposite direction.<\/p>\n

Inspired by Silvia Vidal\u2019s approach to solo climbing, Villanueva did not take any means of communication, thereby making this crazy undertaking, during which he celebrated his 40th birthday, even more committing.<\/p>\n

A month after his traverse, the fanciful Belgian flute player climbed a new route on the south face of Fitz Roy with Jon Griffin (La Chaltenense<\/em>, 500 m, 7a). He couldn\u2019t go back to Europe having climbed Fitz Roy just once!<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.17.3″ text_font_size=”16px” header_text_color=”#000000″ hover_enabled=”0″ saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

Age : 40\u00a0
<\/strong>Country : Belgium<\/strong><\/h4>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

The most Patagonian of Belgians caused a stir in the climbing world in…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":56061,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"[et_pb_section fb_built=\"1\" _builder_version=\"4.4.6\" custom_margin_tablet=\"\" custom_margin_phone=\"\" custom_margin_last_edited=\"on|desktop\" custom_padding=\"4px||||false|false\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.4.6\" max_width=\"800px\" module_alignment=\"center\" custom_margin_tablet=\"\" custom_margin_phone=\"\" custom_margin_last_edited=\"on|phone\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"3.25\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.14.7\" text_font_size=\"16px\" header_text_align=\"center\" background_color=\"#ffffff\" text_orientation=\"justified\" module_alignment=\"left\" custom_padding=\"0px|30px|30px|30px||\" hover_enabled=\"0\" z_index_tablet=\"500\" text_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" text_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" text_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_2_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_2_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_2_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_3_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_3_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_3_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_4_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_4_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_4_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_5_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_5_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_5_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_6_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_6_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_6_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_vertical_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_blur_tablet=\"40px\" box_shadow_spread_tablet=\"0px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" sticky_enabled=\"0\"]\n\n[dropcap size=big]L[\/dropcap]e plus patagonien des Belges a affol\u00e9 le monde de la grimpe, en f\u00e9vrier 2021, en r\u00e9alisant la premi\u00e8re travers\u00e9e sud-nord de la cha\u00eene du Fitz Roy en solitaire, et en 6 jours : The Moonwalk Traverse<\/em><\/a>. Soit l\u2019escalade des aiguilles Guillaumet, Mermoz, Fitz Roy, Poincenot, Rafael Juarez, Saint-Exup\u00e9ry et de l'S.\n\nInspir\u00e9 par l\u2019approche solitaire de Silvia Vidal<\/a>, Sean Villanueva n\u2019avait pas de moyens de communication, poussant au maximum l\u2019engagement dans cette entreprise folle, pendant laquelle il a f\u00eat\u00e9 son 40e anniversaire.\n\nIl prenait aussi \u00e0 rebrousse poil la premi\u00e8re de Caldwell et Honnold r\u00e9alis\u00e9e sept ans plus t\u00f4t. Un mois plus tard, le fantasque joueur de fl\u00fbte belge ouvrait une nouvelle voie dans la face sud du Fitz Roy avec Jon Griffin (La Chaltenense, 500 m, 7a). Il ne pouvait pas repartir en Europe en ne le faisant qu\u2019une fois...\n\n[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.14.6\" text_font_size=\"16px\" header_text_color=\"#000000\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n

\u00c2ge : 40 ans<\/strong>\nPays : Belgique<\/strong><\/h4>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=\"3_5,2_5\" use_custom_gutter=\"on\" gutter_width=\"1\" _builder_version=\"4.9.7\" _module_preset=\"default\" background_color=\"#242424\" width=\"100%\" width_tablet=\"\" width_phone=\"\" width_last_edited=\"on|phone\" max_width=\"800px\" min_height=\"50px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"3_5\" _builder_version=\"4.9.7\" _module_preset=\"default\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.9.7\" text_font_size=\"16px\" header_3_text_color=\"#000000\" header_4_text_color=\"#FFFFFF\" text_orientation=\"center\" module_alignment=\"center\" custom_margin=\"10px||||false|false\" custom_margin_tablet=\"|20px|||false|false\" custom_margin_phone=\"10px|20px|||false|false\" custom_margin_last_edited=\"on|phone\" text_font_size_tablet=\"\" text_font_size_phone=\"14px\" text_font_size_last_edited=\"on|phone\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n

CHERCHER PAR CAT\u00c9GORIE<\/strong><\/h4>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=\"2_5\" _builder_version=\"4.9.7\" _module_preset=\"default\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_menu menu_id=\"2885\" active_link_color=\"#FFFFFF\" dropdown_menu_bg_color=\"#000000\" dropdown_menu_line_color=\"#000000\" dropdown_menu_text_color=\"#FFFFFF\" dropdown_menu_active_link_color=\"#FFFFFF\" mobile_menu_bg_color=\"#000000\" mobile_menu_text_color=\"#FFFFFF\" logo_url_new_window=\"on\" cart_icon_color=\"#000000\" search_icon_color=\"#000000\" menu_icon_color=\"#FFFFFF\" active_link_color_tablet=\"\" active_link_color_phone=\"\" active_link_color_last_edited=\"on|phone\" menu_icon_font_size_tablet=\"\" menu_icon_font_size_phone=\"53px\" menu_icon_font_size_last_edited=\"on|phone\" _builder_version=\"4.9.7\" _module_preset=\"default\" menu_font=\"|700|||||||\" menu_text_color=\"#FFFFFF\" menu_font_size=\"18px\" background_color=\"RGBA(0,0,0,0)\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" custom_margin_tablet=\"\" custom_margin_phone=\"-40px||||false|false\" custom_margin_last_edited=\"on|desktop\" custom_padding=\"||||false|false\" link_option_url_new_window=\"on\" custom_css_dropdown_links=\"\/* CSS *\/|| ||#liens {|| border: 1px solid #000000;|| width: 150px;|| height: 200px;||}|| ||#liens li a{|| text-decoration: none;||}|| ||#liens a:hover {|| text-decoration: none;||}\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_menu][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row disabled_on=\"|on|on\" _builder_version=\"4.14.6\" _module_preset=\"default\" vertical_offset_tablet=\"0\" max_width=\"1200px\" global_module=\"225188\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"3.25\" background_size=\"initial\" background_position=\"top_left\" background_repeat=\"repeat\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/pub-abo-janv22.png\" title_text=\"pub-abo-janv22\" url=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/abonnement\/\" url_new_window=\"on\" _builder_version=\"4.14.7\" _module_preset=\"default\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row disabled_on=\"on|off|off\" _builder_version=\"4.14.7\" _module_preset=\"default\" global_module=\"55929\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.14.7\" _module_preset=\"default\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/ABO-JANV22-1200X250.png\" title_text=\"ABO-JANV22-1200X250\" url=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/abonnement\/\" url_new_window=\"on\" _builder_version=\"4.14.7\" _module_preset=\"default\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[549,337],"tags":[386,418],"class_list":["post-56060","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-andes","category-top50","tag-sean-villanueva-odriscoll","tag-top-50-mountaineering"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/56060","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=56060"}],"version-history":[{"count":10,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/56060\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":57721,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/56060\/revisions\/57721"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/56061"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=56060"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=56060"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=56060"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}