{"id":57944,"date":"2022-08-08T15:48:00","date_gmt":"2022-08-08T13:48:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/lalpiniste-de-la-derniere-chance\/"},"modified":"2022-08-09T12:29:35","modified_gmt":"2022-08-09T10:29:35","slug":"the-last-chance-alpinist","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/the-last-chance-alpinist\/","title":{"rendered":"The last chance alpinist"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>[et_pb_section fb_built=&#8221;1&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_margin_tablet=&#8221;&#8221; custom_margin_phone=&#8221;&#8221; custom_margin_last_edited=&#8221;on|desktop&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;||||false|false&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; max_width=&#8221;800px&#8221; module_alignment=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin_tablet=&#8221;&#8221; custom_margin_phone=&#8221;&#8221; custom_margin_last_edited=&#8221;on|phone&#8221; use_custom_width=&#8221;on&#8221; custom_width_px=&#8221;800px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/EDITO.png&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; show_bottom_space_tablet=&#8221;&#8221; show_bottom_space_phone=&#8221;&#8221; show_bottom_space_last_edited=&#8221;on|phone&#8221; align_tablet=&#8221;center&#8221; align_phone=&#8221;&#8221; align_last_edited=&#8221;on|desktop&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; max_width=&#8221;35%&#8221; module_alignment=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;||||false|false&#8221; custom_margin_tablet=&#8221;&#8221; custom_margin_phone=&#8221;0px||0px&#8221; custom_margin_last_edited=&#8221;on|desktop&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px||&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.17.6&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;16px&#8221; header_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; background_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; text_orientation=&#8221;justified&#8221; module_alignment=&#8221;left&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|30px|30px|30px||&#8221; hover_enabled=&#8221;0&#8243; z_index_tablet=&#8221;500&#8243; text_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; text_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; text_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_2_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_2_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_2_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_3_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_3_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_3_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_4_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_4_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_4_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_5_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_5_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_5_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_6_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_6_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_6_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_vertical_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_blur_tablet=&#8221;40px&#8221; box_shadow_spread_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; sticky_enabled=&#8221;0&#8243;]<\/p>\n<p><span class=\"cb-dropcap-big\">A<\/span>fter a few weeks in the mountains, disconnected from the networks and other notifications, I returned to the virtual planet.\u00a0There, depressing alerts and pictures are blooming: melting glaciers, dried lakes, rock slides and ice falls accelerated, overfrequentation on touristic sites. The disaster scenario is underway.<\/p>\n<p>Sad mood at Alpine Mag editorial staff. The big summer ascents have changed their look. Some are not recommended anymore or have been withdrawn from the catalog by the guide companies, others have to be reconsidered in terms of difficulty, commitment and time.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/whymper-jorasses-Ulysse-Lefebvre-0651.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;whymper-jorasses-Ulysse-Lefebvre-0651&#8243; show_in_lightbox=&#8221;on&#8221; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; force_fullwidth=&#8221;on&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.17.3&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.17.6&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Merriweather|900|||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;16&#8243; custom_margin=&#8221;||||false|false&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221; saved_tabs=&#8221;all&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Mountaineering : an old-fashioned but modern discipline? Here in the long descent of the Whymper spur on the south face of the Grandes Jorasses. \u00a9Ulysse Lefebvre<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.17.6&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;16px&#8221; header_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; background_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; text_orientation=&#8221;justified&#8221; module_alignment=&#8221;left&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;30px|30px|30px|30px&#8221; z_index_tablet=&#8221;500&#8243; text_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; text_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; text_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_2_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_2_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_2_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_3_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_3_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_3_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_4_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_4_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_4_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_5_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_5_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_5_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_6_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_6_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_6_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_vertical_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_blur_tablet=&#8221;40px&#8221; box_shadow_spread_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>On the Rochefort ridge, on the way to the Grandes Jorasses, we stopped counting the number of times we put on\/off our crampons. No more trace of the immaculate ridge, hemmed with its fleshy cornice that used to be the highlight of mountain photographs not so long ago. Today, we cling to the remains of snow browned by the dust and sand that fell this winter from sirocco. When we do not advance on edges of crumbled rock, freshly appeared. Then again a vestige of snow etc. On the spot, Fran\u00e7ois Damilano notes bitterly: &#8220;<em>The joyful mountaineering of Gaston R\u00e9buffat no longer takes place here. We are climbing in the middle of the anthropocene<\/em>&#8220;.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>So what? Would the mountaineer be a tourist of the last chance in spite of himself? And has he always been? A climber of the very last chance then. Doesn&#8217;t he seek to find landscapes at altitude that exist nowhere else, atmospheres of bygone eras, the harsh conditions of another time? Climbing or walking up there, is it not a way to get away from the hustle and bustle of mankind, where his influence has not yet had any visible effect?\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=&#8221;#000000&#8243; quote_icon_background_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.17.6&#8243; body_font=&#8221;Oswald|700||on|||||&#8221; body_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; body_text_color=&#8221;#000000&#8243; body_font_size=&#8221;30px&#8221; use_background_color=&#8221;off&#8221; z_index_tablet=&#8221;500&#8243; author_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; author_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; author_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; position_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; position_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; position_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; company_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; company_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; company_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; body_link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; body_link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; body_link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; body_ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; body_ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; body_ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; body_ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; body_ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; body_ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; body_quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; body_quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; body_quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_vertical_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_blur_tablet=&#8221;40px&#8221; box_shadow_spread_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_horizontal_image_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_vertical_image_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_blur_image_tablet=&#8221;40px&#8221; box_shadow_spread_image_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; saved_tabs=&#8221;all&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>the mountain is floundering<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_testimonial][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.17.6&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;16px&#8221; header_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; background_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; text_orientation=&#8221;justified&#8221; module_alignment=&#8221;left&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;30px|30px|30px|30px&#8221; z_index_tablet=&#8221;500&#8243; text_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; text_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; text_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_2_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_2_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_2_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_3_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_3_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_3_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_4_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_4_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_4_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_5_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_5_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_5_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_6_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_6_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_6_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_vertical_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_blur_tablet=&#8221;40px&#8221; box_shadow_spread_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>We have to admit that it is over. Of course, rocks and seracs have always fallen in summer. But this unusual season seems to mark a sad milestone by the number and intensity of the phenomena. In the Alps, from the Glacier Blanc in the Ecrins, to the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont-Blanc, passing by the Aiguilles Rouges nature reserve or the Marmolada glacier in the Dolomites, the mountain is floundering.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>Mountaineering is not fashionable and never has been. It is a long, laborious and slow activity. Sometimes risky. Often ungrateful. Thus appears a great paradox. It is at the same time everything that is denigrated in the facts (since some people always privilege a fast and punctual access to the mountain, on a consumption mode), but it is also everything that is praised in the speeches (marketing in particular, but also politics).\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>So dear friends, let&#8217;s climb! Let&#8217;s climb slowly! Let&#8217;s talk about mountaineering without drums and trumpets, but without any fuss either. Let&#8217;s not sulk about a certain pride in traversing the heights without noise. If we are mountaineers of the last chance, it is because there is still a small chance. It is because there is still hope. Let us try to assume, humbly and firmly, the imperious responsibility.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>After a few weeks in the mountains, disconnected from the networks and other&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":57945,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"[et_pb_section fb_built=\"1\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_margin_tablet=\"\" custom_margin_phone=\"\" custom_margin_last_edited=\"on|desktop\" custom_padding=\"||||false|false\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" module_alignment=\"center\" custom_margin_tablet=\"\" custom_margin_phone=\"\" custom_margin_last_edited=\"on|phone\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/EDITO.png\" align=\"center\" show_bottom_space_tablet=\"\" show_bottom_space_phone=\"\" show_bottom_space_last_edited=\"on|phone\" align_tablet=\"center\" align_phone=\"\" align_last_edited=\"on|desktop\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"35%\" module_alignment=\"center\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" custom_margin_tablet=\"\" custom_margin_phone=\"0px||0px\" custom_margin_last_edited=\"on|desktop\" custom_padding=\"0px||\" border_style=\"solid\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.17.3\" text_font_size=\"16px\" header_text_align=\"center\" background_color=\"#ffffff\" text_orientation=\"justified\" module_alignment=\"left\" custom_padding=\"0px|30px|30px|30px||\" z_index_tablet=\"500\" text_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" text_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" text_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_2_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_2_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_2_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_3_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_3_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_3_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_4_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_4_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_4_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_5_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_5_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_5_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_6_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_6_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_6_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_vertical_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_blur_tablet=\"40px\" box_shadow_spread_tablet=\"0px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\n[dropcap size=big]A[\/dropcap]pr\u00e8s quelques semaines en montagne,&nbsp;d\u00e9connect\u00e9 des r\u00e9seaux et autres notifications, je retrouve la plan\u00e8te virtuelle.&nbsp;L\u00e0, les alertes et photos d\u00e9primantes fleurissent : glaciers-peau de chagrin, lacs ass\u00e9ch\u00e9s, \u00e9boulements rocheux et chutes de s\u00e9racs acc\u00e9l\u00e9r\u00e9es, fr\u00e9quentations de sites exag\u00e9r\u00e9es. Le sc\u00e9nario catastrophe est en marche.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">&nbsp;<\/span>\n\nGros coup au moral \u00e0 la r\u00e9daction d\u2019Alpine Mag. Les grandes courses estivales ont chang\u00e9 d\u2019allure. Certaines sont d\u00e9conseill\u00e9es ou <a href=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/la-voie-normale-du-mont-blanc-deconseillee\/\">retir\u00e9es du catalogue par les compagnies de guides,<\/a> d\u2019autres sont \u00e0 reconsid\u00e9rer en terme de difficult\u00e9, d\u2019engagement et de temps de parcours.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">&nbsp;<\/span>\n\n[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/whymper-jorasses-Ulysse-Lefebvre-0651.jpg\" title_text=\"whymper-jorasses-Ulysse-Lefebvre-0651\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" force_fullwidth=\"on\" _builder_version=\"4.17.3\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.17.3\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nL'alpinisme, discipline d\u00e9mod\u00e9e mais moderne ? Dans la longue descente de la pointe Whymper en face sud des Grandes Jorasses. \u00a9Ulysse Lefebvre\n\n[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.17.6\" text_font_size=\"16px\" header_text_align=\"center\" background_color=\"#ffffff\" text_orientation=\"justified\" module_alignment=\"left\" custom_padding=\"30px|30px|30px|30px\" z_index_tablet=\"500\" text_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" text_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" text_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_2_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_2_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_2_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_3_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_3_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_3_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_4_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_4_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_4_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_5_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_5_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_5_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_6_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_6_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_6_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_vertical_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_blur_tablet=\"40px\" box_shadow_spread_tablet=\"0px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nSur les ar\u00eates de Rochefort, en route pour la travers\u00e9e jusqu\u2019aux Grandes Jorasses, on a cess\u00e9 de compter le nombre de chaussages\/d\u00e9chaussages de crampons au-del\u00e0 de la vingtaine de fois. Plus de trace de l\u2019ar\u00eate immacul\u00e9e, ourl\u00e9e de sa corniche charnue qui faisait l\u2019\u00e9clat des photographies de montagne il n\u2019y a pas si longtemps. Aujourd\u2019hui, on cramponne sur des restes de neige brunie par la poussi\u00e8re et le sable tomb\u00e9 cet hiver. Quand on n'avance pas sur des ar\u00eates de rocher d\u00e9lit\u00e9, fra\u00eechement apparu. Puis \u00e0 nouveau un vestige de neige etc. Sur place, <strong>Fran\u00e7ois Damilano<\/strong> le constate am\u00e8rement : \u00ab&nbsp;<i>L\u2019alpinisme joyeux de Gaston R\u00e9buffat n\u2019a plus lieu ici. On grimpe en plein anthropoc\u00e8ne <\/i>\u00bb.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">&nbsp;<\/span>\n\nAlors quoi ? L\u2019alpiniste serait-il <a href=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/poles-tourisme-derniere-chance\/\">un touriste de la derni\u00e8re chance<\/a> malgr\u00e9 lui ? Et ce depuis toujours ? Un alpiniste de la toute derni\u00e8re chance alors. Ne cherche t-il pas \u00e0 trouver en altitude des paysages qui n\u2019existent nulle part ailleurs, des ambiances d\u2019\u00e9poques r\u00e9volues, les conditions rudes d\u2019un autre temps ? Grimper ou marcher l\u00e0-haut n\u2019est-ce pas s\u2019extraire du capharna\u00fcm des hommes, l\u00e0 o\u00f9 son influence n\u2019aurait pas encore eu d\u2019effets visibles ?<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">&nbsp;<\/span>\n\n[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=\"#000000\" quote_icon_background_color=\"#ffffff\" _builder_version=\"4.17.3\" body_font=\"Oswald|700||on|||||\" body_text_align=\"center\" body_text_color=\"#000000\" body_font_size=\"30px\" use_background_color=\"off\" z_index_tablet=\"500\" author_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" author_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" author_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" position_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" position_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" position_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" company_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" company_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" company_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" body_link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" body_link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" body_link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" body_ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" body_ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" body_ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" body_ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" body_ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" body_ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" body_quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" body_quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" body_quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_vertical_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_blur_tablet=\"40px\" box_shadow_spread_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_horizontal_image_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_vertical_image_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_blur_image_tablet=\"40px\" box_shadow_spread_image_tablet=\"0px\" text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nla montagne flanche\n\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.17.3\" text_font_size=\"16px\" header_text_align=\"center\" background_color=\"#ffffff\" text_orientation=\"justified\" module_alignment=\"left\" custom_padding=\"30px|30px|30px|30px\" z_index_tablet=\"500\" text_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" text_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" text_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_2_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_2_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_2_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_3_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_3_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_3_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_4_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_4_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_4_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_5_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_5_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_5_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_6_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_6_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_6_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_vertical_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_blur_tablet=\"40px\" box_shadow_spread_tablet=\"0px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nForce est de constater que c\u2019est termin\u00e9. Certes les pierres et les s\u00e9racs ont toujours chut\u00e9 en \u00e9t\u00e9. Mais cette saison hors-norme semble bien marquer un triste jalon par le nombre et l\u2019intensit\u00e9 des ph\u00e9nom\u00e8nes. Du glacier Blanc dans les Ecrins, aux Grandes Jorasses dans le Mont-Blanc en passant par la r\u00e9serve naturelle des Aiguilles Rouges ou l<a href=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/glacier-marmolada-peril-en-la-demeure\/\">e glacier de la Marmolada<\/a> dans les Dolomites, la montagne flanche.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">&nbsp;<\/span>\n\nL\u2019alpinisme n\u2019est pas \u00e0 la mode et il ne l\u2019a jamais \u00e9t\u00e9. C\u2019est une activit\u00e9 longue, laborieuse et lente. Parfois risqu\u00e9e. Souvent ingrate. Ainsi apparait un grand paradoxe. C\u2019est \u00e0 la fois tout ce qui est d\u00e9nigr\u00e9 dans les faits (puisque <a href=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/mont-blanc-travaux-gare-montenvers\/\">certains privil\u00e9gient toujours un acc\u00e8s rapide et ponctuel \u00e0 la montagne<\/a>, sur un mode de consommation), mais c'est aussi tout ce qui est vant\u00e9 dans les discours (marketings notamment, mais aussi <a href=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/protection-mont-blanc-arrete-prefectoral-macron-alpinisme-environnement\/\">politiques<\/a> avec de fausses mesures ou des r\u00e9f\u00e9rences malheureuses, aux premiers de cord\u00e9e par exemple).<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">&nbsp;<\/span>\n\n<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">Alors chers amis grimpons ! Grimpons doucement, escaladons lentement ! Parlons d\u2019alpinisme sans tambours ni trompettes, mais sans fard non plus. Ne boudons pas une certaine fiert\u00e9 \u00e0 parcourir les hauteurs sans bruit. Si nous sommes des alpinistes de la derni\u00e8re chance, c\u2019est qu\u2019il en reste une, de petite chance. C\u2019est qu\u2019il reste de l\u2019espoir. T\u00e2chons d\u2019en assumer, humbles et fermes, l\u2019imp\u00e9rieuse responsabilit\u00e9. <\/span>\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[10,16,20],"tags":[517,503],"class_list":["post-57944","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-alps","category-editorial","category-mountaineering","tag-alpinist","tag-climate"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/57944","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=57944"}],"version-history":[{"count":8,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/57944\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":57997,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/57944\/revisions\/57997"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/57945"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=57944"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=57944"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=57944"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}