{"id":58183,"date":"2022-09-21T16:02:51","date_gmt":"2022-09-21T14:02:51","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/el-capitan-warren-harding-portrait-du-vainqueur-du-nose-et-du-dawn-wall\/"},"modified":"2022-09-21T17:47:32","modified_gmt":"2022-09-21T15:47:32","slug":"el-capitan-warren-harding-video","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/el-capitan-warren-harding-video\/","title":{"rendered":"Warren Harding&#8217;s Outrageous First Ascents of The Nose and The Dawn Wall"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>[et_pb_section fb_built=&#8221;1&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; background_size=&#8221;initial&#8221; background_position=&#8221;top_left&#8221; background_repeat=&#8221;repeat&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_code _builder_version=&#8221;4.17.6&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<iframe width=\"560\" height=\"315\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/iw9emEs55tM\" title=\"YouTube video player\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe>[\/et_pb_code][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; max_width=&#8221;800px&#8221; use_custom_width=&#8221;on&#8221; custom_width_px=&#8221;800&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.17.6&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;16px&#8221; hover_enabled=&#8221;0&#8243; saved_tabs=&#8221;all&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; sticky_enabled=&#8221;0&#8243;]<\/p>\n<p><span class=\"cb-dropcap-big\">W<\/span>arren Harding<span> a singular man who marked his time. Harding was the relentless visionary who first climbed El Capitan, the thousand-meter granite monster in Yosemite, at the head of a team of climbers who were among the best at the time: it was in 1957, and the trio led by Harding took a total of 47 days (!) to climb what would become the iconic route of El Cap, the <em>Nose<\/em>. In 1970, Warren Harding continued to whistle red wine and to be one of the loudmouths at the mythical Camp 4 campsite, but that didn&#8217;t stop him from embarking on his last project on El Cap: he spent 28 days opening <em>The Wall of the Early Morning Light<\/em>, which would become Tommy Caldwell&#8217;s obsession in free climbing four decades later, a route renamed <em>The Dawn Wall<\/em>.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Warren Harding was criticized by his peers like Royal Robbins for planting too many expansion pitons, and probably screwed up the ethics of his openings &#8211; like the <em>Wall of the Early Morning Light.<\/em> He remains, however, the one who successfully challenged El Capitan with rudimentary techniques and boldness.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>The video is taken from Valley Uprising, THE Reel Rock film about the golden age of Yosemite<\/span><\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Warren Harding a singular man who marked his time. Harding was the relentless&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":58184,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[19,11],"tags":[102,103],"class_list":["post-58183","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climbing","category-world","tag-el-capitan","tag-yosemite"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/58183","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=58183"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/58183\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":58191,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/58183\/revisions\/58191"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/58184"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=58183"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=58183"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=58183"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}