{"id":58268,"date":"2022-09-26T12:04:09","date_gmt":"2022-09-26T10:04:09","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/un-surprenant-alpiniste\/"},"modified":"2022-11-01T15:08:08","modified_gmt":"2022-11-01T14:08:08","slug":"a-surprising-climber-colin-haley","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/a-surprising-climber-colin-haley\/","title":{"rendered":"A surprising climber"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>[et_pb_section fb_built=&#8221;1&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_margin_tablet=&#8221;&#8221; custom_margin_phone=&#8221;&#8221; custom_margin_last_edited=&#8221;on|desktop&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;||||false|false&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; max_width=&#8221;800px&#8221; module_alignment=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin_tablet=&#8221;&#8221; custom_margin_phone=&#8221;&#8221; custom_margin_last_edited=&#8221;on|phone&#8221; use_custom_width=&#8221;on&#8221; custom_width_px=&#8221;800px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/EDITO.png&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; show_bottom_space_tablet=&#8221;&#8221; show_bottom_space_phone=&#8221;&#8221; show_bottom_space_last_edited=&#8221;on|phone&#8221; align_tablet=&#8221;center&#8221; align_phone=&#8221;&#8221; align_last_edited=&#8221;on|desktop&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; max_width=&#8221;35%&#8221; module_alignment=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;||||false|false&#8221; custom_margin_tablet=&#8221;&#8221; custom_margin_phone=&#8221;0px||0px&#8221; custom_margin_last_edited=&#8221;on|desktop&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px||&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.17.6&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;16px&#8221; header_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; background_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; text_orientation=&#8221;justified&#8221; module_alignment=&#8221;left&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|30px|30px|30px||&#8221; z_index_tablet=&#8221;500&#8243; text_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; text_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; text_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_2_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_2_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_2_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_3_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_3_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_3_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_4_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_4_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_4_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_5_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_5_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_5_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_6_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_6_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_6_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_vertical_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_blur_tablet=&#8221;40px&#8221; box_shadow_spread_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p><span class=\"cb-dropcap-big\">T<\/span>his time, no one saw Comet Haley coming. It must be said that Colin was even more surprisingly spontaneous than usual in his decision to go to Patagonia to attempt the 1600m Supercanaleta at Fitz Roy, solo and in winter. As he tells us <a href=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/colin-haley-fitzroy-winter-solo-supercanaleta\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">in our article<\/a>, the American from Seattle went from a form of routine in Canada (&#8220;<em>I felt like I was wasting my time<\/em>&#8220;) to the extremes of the southern winter. It&#8217;s a bit like going from Faur\u00e9&#8217;s Requiem to a live performance of Rage against the machine. Two rooms, two atmospheres.<\/p>\n<p>In a few minutes, the time it takes to call the inevitable &#8220;Rolo&#8221; Garibotti, Colin precipitates the very essence of flamboyant mountaineering: audacity (a last-minute decision), tenacity (a long-standing project), sincerity (and its corollary of discretion, with no fanfare or trumpets), commitment (the Patagonian winter) and experience (already 38 years old, Colin!)<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/Colin-Haley-Ulysse-Lefebvre-9314.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;Colin-Haley-Ulysse-Lefebvre-9314&#8243; show_in_lightbox=&#8221;on&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.17.6&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.17.6&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Merriweather|900|||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;16&#8243; custom_margin=&#8221;-7px||||false|false&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221; saved_tabs=&#8221;all&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Colin Haley in Chamonix. \u00a9Ulysse Lefebvre<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.17.6&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;16px&#8221; header_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; background_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; text_orientation=&#8221;justified&#8221; module_alignment=&#8221;left&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;30px|30px|30px|30px&#8221; z_index_tablet=&#8221;500&#8243; text_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; text_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; text_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_2_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_2_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_2_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_3_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_3_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_3_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_4_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_4_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_4_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_5_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_5_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_5_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_6_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_6_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_6_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_vertical_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_blur_tablet=&#8221;40px&#8221; box_shadow_spread_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>It is perhaps no exaggeration to say that if something goes wrong, it is better to be stuck on a Pakistani peak than on a Fitz face. Although difficult to mobilise, the Pakistani army helicopters are still effective in the event of a rescue. In El Chalten, the land caravan of volunteers must be relied on most of the time, but they must be warned of the accident. At Fitz Roy in winter, it is rather lonely.<\/p>\n<p>So it&#8217;s true, the weather forecast has improved a lot in Patagonia over the last ten years. But the winter good periods, even in advance, are still very short. And anyone who has ever been buffeted by Patagonian gusts knows how fine the line is between calm and storm. Colin has managed to get in the way. Let&#8217;s add opportunism, in the noble sense of the term, to our little illustrated definition of mountaineering.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=&#8221;#000000&#8243; quote_icon_background_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.17.6&#8243; body_font=&#8221;Oswald|700||on|||||&#8221; body_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; body_text_color=&#8221;#000000&#8243; body_font_size=&#8221;30px&#8221; use_background_color=&#8221;off&#8221; z_index_tablet=&#8221;500&#8243; author_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; author_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; author_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; position_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; position_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; position_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; company_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; company_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; company_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; body_link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; body_link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; body_link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; body_ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; body_ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; body_ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; body_ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; body_ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; body_ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; body_quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; body_quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; body_quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_vertical_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_blur_tablet=&#8221;40px&#8221; box_shadow_spread_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_horizontal_image_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_vertical_image_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_blur_image_tablet=&#8221;40px&#8221; box_shadow_spread_image_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; saved_tabs=&#8221;all&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>HALEY FINALLY ACHIEVES\u00a0<br \/>A LOGICAL ASCENT<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_testimonial][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.17.6&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;16px&#8221; header_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; background_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; text_orientation=&#8221;justified&#8221; module_alignment=&#8221;left&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;30px|30px|30px|30px&#8221; z_index_tablet=&#8221;500&#8243; text_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; text_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; text_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_2_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_2_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_2_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_3_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_3_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_3_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_4_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_4_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_4_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_5_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_5_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_5_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_6_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_6_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_6_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_vertical_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_blur_tablet=&#8221;40px&#8221; box_shadow_spread_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>On reflection, Haley finally achieves a logical ascent, as if everything in his career led to this climax, the epitome of an alpine style that he has always advocated, fast, light and without concessions, from the walls of Mont-Blanc to those of Alaska, and of course in Patagonia, his favourite land.<\/p>\n<p>The only question that remains is what Colin will do after this, he who announced to us that he was moving on from soloing two years ago (read <a href=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/colin-haley-reflections-on-hard-solo-climbing-1\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">here<\/a>, and <a href=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/reflections-on-hard-solo-climbing-2\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">here<\/a>). The answer must lie somewhere where we don&#8217;t expect it.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>This time, no one saw Comet Haley coming. It must be said that Colin was even&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":58269,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"[et_pb_section fb_built=\"1\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_margin_tablet=\"\" custom_margin_phone=\"\" custom_margin_last_edited=\"on|desktop\" custom_padding=\"||||false|false\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" module_alignment=\"center\" custom_margin_tablet=\"\" custom_margin_phone=\"\" custom_margin_last_edited=\"on|phone\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/EDITO.png\" align=\"center\" show_bottom_space_tablet=\"\" show_bottom_space_phone=\"\" show_bottom_space_last_edited=\"on|phone\" align_tablet=\"center\" align_phone=\"\" align_last_edited=\"on|desktop\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"35%\" module_alignment=\"center\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" custom_margin_tablet=\"\" custom_margin_phone=\"0px||0px\" custom_margin_last_edited=\"on|desktop\" custom_padding=\"0px||\" border_style=\"solid\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.17.6\" text_font_size=\"16px\" header_text_align=\"center\" background_color=\"#ffffff\" text_orientation=\"justified\" module_alignment=\"left\" custom_padding=\"0px|30px|30px|30px||\" z_index_tablet=\"500\" text_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" text_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" text_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_2_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_2_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_2_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_3_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_3_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_3_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_4_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_4_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_4_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_5_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_5_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_5_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_6_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_6_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_6_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_vertical_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_blur_tablet=\"40px\" box_shadow_spread_tablet=\"0px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\n[dropcap size=big]C[\/dropcap]ette fois, personne n\u2019a vu arriver la com\u00e8te Haley. Il faut dire que Colin a \u00e9t\u00e9 encore plus surprenant de spontan\u00e9it\u00e9 que d\u2019habitude, dans sa d\u00e9cision de partir en Patagonie pour tenter les 1600m de la Supercanaleta au Fitz Roy, en solo et en hiver. Comme <a href=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/colin-haley-fitz-roy-supercouloir-solo-hiver\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">il le raconte dans notre article<\/a>, l\u2019am\u00e9ricain de Seattle est pass\u00e9 d\u2019une forme de train-train au Canada (\u00ab <em>J\u2019avais l\u2019impression de perdre mon temps\u00a0<\/em>\u00bb) aux extr\u00e9mit\u00e9s de l\u2019hiver austral. C\u2019est un peu comme passer du Requiem de Faur\u00e9 \u00e0 un live de Rage against the machine. Deux salles, deux ambiances.\n\nEn quelques minutes, le temps d\u2019un coup de fil a l\u2019in\u00e9vitable \u00ab\u00a0Rolo\u00a0\u00bb Garibotti, voil\u00e0 que Colin pr\u00e9cipite l\u2019essence m\u00eame d\u2019un alpinisme flamboyant : l\u2019audace (d\u2019une d\u00e9cision de derni\u00e8re minute), la t\u00e9nacit\u00e9 (d\u2019un projet de longue date), la sinc\u00e9rit\u00e9 (et son corollaire de discr\u00e9tion, sans tambours ni trompettes communicantes), l\u2019engagement (l\u2019hiver patagon) et l\u2019exp\u00e9rience (d\u00e9j\u00e0 38 ans le Colin !).\n\n[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/Colin-Haley-Ulysse-Lefebvre-9314.jpg\" title_text=\"Colin-Haley-Ulysse-Lefebvre-9314\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" _builder_version=\"4.17.6\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.17.6\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"-7px||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nColin Haley, \u00e0 Chamonix. \u00a9Ulysse Lefebvre\n\n[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.17.6\" text_font_size=\"16px\" header_text_align=\"center\" background_color=\"#ffffff\" text_orientation=\"justified\" module_alignment=\"left\" custom_padding=\"30px|30px|30px|30px\" z_index_tablet=\"500\" text_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" text_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" text_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_2_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_2_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_2_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_3_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_3_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_3_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_4_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_4_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_4_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_5_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_5_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_5_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_6_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_6_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_6_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_vertical_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_blur_tablet=\"40px\" box_shadow_spread_tablet=\"0px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nCe n\u2019est peut-\u00eatre pas exag\u00e9r\u00e9 de dire qu\u2019en cas de p\u00e9pin, mieux vaut \u00eatre coinc\u00e9 sur un sommet pakistanais que dans une face du Fitz. M\u00eame s\u2019ils sont difficiles \u00e0 mobiliser, les h\u00e9licopt\u00e8res de l\u2019arm\u00e9e pakistanaise restent efficaces en cas de secours. \u00c0 El Chalten, il faut encore compter le plus souvent sur la caravane terrestre de volontaires, encore faut-il qu\u2019ils soient pr\u00e9venus de l\u2019accident. Au Fitz Roy en hiver, c\u2019est plut\u00f4t la solitude qui vous accompagne.\n\nAlors c\u2019est vrai, les pr\u00e9visions m\u00e9t\u00e9o se sont bien am\u00e9lior\u00e9es en Patagonie ces dix derni\u00e8res ann\u00e9es. Mais les cr\u00e9neaux hivernaux, m\u00eame anticip\u00e9s, restent tr\u00e8s courts. Et qui a d\u00e9j\u00e0 ploy\u00e9 sous les rafales patagonnes sait combien la marge entre le calme et la temp\u00eate y est t\u00e9nue. Colin a su s\u2019y immiscer. Ajoutons l\u2019opportunisme, au sens noble du terme, dans notre petite d\u00e9finition illustr\u00e9e de l\u2019alpinisme.\n\n[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=\"#000000\" quote_icon_background_color=\"#ffffff\" _builder_version=\"4.17.6\" body_font=\"Oswald|700||on|||||\" body_text_align=\"center\" body_text_color=\"#000000\" body_font_size=\"30px\" use_background_color=\"off\" z_index_tablet=\"500\" author_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" author_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" author_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" position_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" position_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" position_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" company_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" company_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" company_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" body_link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" body_link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" body_link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" body_ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" body_ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" body_ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" body_ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" body_ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" body_ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" body_quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" body_quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" body_quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_vertical_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_blur_tablet=\"40px\" box_shadow_spread_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_horizontal_image_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_vertical_image_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_blur_image_tablet=\"40px\" box_shadow_spread_image_tablet=\"0px\" text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nHaley r\u00e9alise finalement\nune ascension logique\n\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.17.6\" text_font_size=\"16px\" header_text_align=\"center\" background_color=\"#ffffff\" text_orientation=\"justified\" module_alignment=\"left\" custom_padding=\"30px|30px|30px|30px\" hover_enabled=\"0\" z_index_tablet=\"500\" text_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" text_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" text_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_2_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_2_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_2_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_3_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_3_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_3_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_4_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_4_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_4_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_5_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_5_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_5_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" header_6_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_6_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=\"0px\" header_6_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=\"1px\" box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_vertical_tablet=\"0px\" box_shadow_blur_tablet=\"40px\" box_shadow_spread_tablet=\"0px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" sticky_enabled=\"0\"]\n\n\u00c0 la r\u00e9flexion, Haley r\u00e9alise finalement une ascension logique, comme si dans son parcours, tout menait \u00e0 ce climax, \u00e9pure d\u2019un style alpin qu\u2019il pr\u00f4ne depuis toujours, rapide, l\u00e9ger et sans concessions, des parois du Mont-Blanc \u00e0 celles d\u2019Alaska, et bien s\u00fbr en Patagonie, sa terre de pr\u00e9dilection.\nLa seule question qui demeure est de savoir ce que fera Colin apr\u00e8s \u00e7a, lui qui <a href=\"passer%20\u00e0 autre chose que le solo\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">nous annon\u00e7ait passer \u00e0 autre chose que le solo<\/a> il y a deux ans. La r\u00e9ponse doit se trouver quelque part l\u00e0 o\u00f9 on ne l\u2019attend pas.\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[549,20],"tags":[541,109,108,545,126],"class_list":["post-58268","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-andes","category-mountaineering","tag-colin-haley","tag-patagonia","tag-solo","tag-supercanaleta","tag-winter"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/58268","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=58268"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/58268\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":58354,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/58268\/revisions\/58354"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/58269"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=58268"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=58268"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=58268"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}