{"id":58332,"date":"2022-10-16T13:48:22","date_gmt":"2022-10-16T11:48:22","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/piolets-dor-2022-pour-le-trio-georgien-au-saraghrar-et-le-solo-de-la-traversee-du-fitz-roy-prix-special-pour-lannapurna-iii-des-ukrainiens\/"},"modified":"2022-11-01T15:47:12","modified_gmt":"2022-11-01T14:47:12","slug":"saraghrar-fitzroy-traverse-pioletdor-2022-annapurna-iii-special-jury-award","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/saraghrar-fitzroy-traverse-pioletdor-2022-annapurna-iii-special-jury-award\/","title":{"rendered":"Saraghrar NW and Fitz Roy Moonwalk Traverse win Piolets d’Or 2022, Annapurna III SE Ridge Special jury award"},"content":{"rendered":"\n\n\n[et_pb_section fb_built=”1″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_margin=”||||false|false” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.18.0″ header_font=”|on|||” text_orientation=”center” module_alignment=”center” hover_enabled=”0″ header_font_size_tablet=”” header_font_size_phone=”16px” header_font_size_last_edited=”on|desktop” header_2_font_size_tablet=”” header_2_font_size_phone=”16px” header_2_font_size_last_edited=”on|phone” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

Next November in Brian\u00e7on, the Piolets d’Or 2022 will be awarded to the Georgians Archil Badriashvili, Baqar Gelachvili and Giorgi Tepnadze for their wild ascent of Saraghrar (7,303 m, Pakistan) and to the Belgian Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll for his solo traverse of the Fitz Roy massif. The Piolets d’Or also awarded a special jury award to the Ukrainian trio who made the first ascent of the south-east ridge of Annapurna III, a trio that missed out on a Piolet d’Or for using a helicopter.<\/strong><\/h2>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=”1″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_margin=”||||false|false” custom_padding=”||3px|||” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”800px” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.18.0″ text_font_size=”16px” hover_enabled=”0″ global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

T<\/span>his will undoubtedly be a great edition of the Piolets d’Or, which will take place in Brian\u00e7on from November 18 to 20. The Piolet d’Or Carriere will be awarded to the Slovenian Silvo Karo<\/strong>. Here is the press release of the Piolets d’Or concerning this 2022 edition. “After 2020, a year in which international mobility was strongly affected by the COVID pandemic, 2021 saw a strong surge in activity, despite the ongoing restrictions. There has been a remarkable number and diversity of first ascents around the world, by climbers from a wide range of backgrounds. Mountaineering, which was recognized in December 2019 by UNESCO as an intangible world cultural heritage, in accordance with the Charter of the Piolets d’Or, is alive and well! We are therefore pleased to announce that this year our international jury composed of Conrad Anker, Alex Bluemel, Genki Narumi, Paul Ramsden, Patrick Wagnon <\/strong>and Mikel Zabalza<\/strong> has selected two 2022 Piolets d’Or.”<\/span><\/p>\n

Or rather, two and a half, with a special mention that could have been a single Piolet d’Or, if this major ascent, the southeast ridge of Annapurna III by three Ukrainians, had not been made possible by a heliported access and return, which was not to the jury’s liking.<\/span><\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row disabled_on=”|on|on” _builder_version=”4.16″ _module_preset=”default” vertical_offset_tablet=”0″ max_width=”1200px” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/pub-mai22.png” title_text=”pub-mai22″ url=”https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/abonnement\/” url_new_window=”on” _builder_version=”4.17.3″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row disabled_on=”on|off|off” _builder_version=”4.16″ _module_preset=”default” background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” max_width=”1200px” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/pub-mai22-desktop.png” title_text=”pub-mai22-desktop” url=”https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/abonnement\/” url_new_window=”on” _builder_version=”4.17.3″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=”1″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_margin=”||||false|false” custom_margin_tablet=”” custom_margin_phone=”” custom_margin_last_edited=”on|desktop” custom_padding=”4px||||false|false” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.18.0″ max_width=”800px” custom_margin=”50px|||” custom_padding=”27px|0px|22.796875px|0px|false|false” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.18.0″ text_font_size=”16px” hover_enabled=”0″ global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

Piolet d’Or : Saraghrar NW new route<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Saraghrar Northwest, first ascent via the northwest face, 2,300m, ED2 or Russian\/Caucasian 6B, 6b M5+ A3+ 80-90\u00b0, from September 3-10, 2021.<\/strong> The route was descended with one further bivouac.<\/p>\n

The Saraghrar Massif, just south of the Afghan border in today\u2019s little visited Pakistan Hindu Kush, has several summits, but few climbers have ever reached them. Saraghrar Northwest (7,300m) remained unclimbed, despite prolonged and valiant attempts on the southwest buttress by three strong Spanish expeditions in the 1970s and early \u201880s. The last of these topped out at around 7,150m on the northwest ridge, at a point they named Saraghrar Northwest II. Georgians Archil Badriashvili, Baqar Gelashvili, <\/strong>and Giorgi Tepnadze<\/strong> chose the previously unattempted northwest face, in its upper part a steep rock wall merging into the northwest ridge. They also opted to make the attempt in September, later in the year than normal, to lessen daytime heat and consequent rockfall. From a base camp at around 4,200m in the Rosh Gol, and with little pre-acclimatization, the three \u201cwarmed up\u201d by making the first ascent of the south face and east ridge (1,800m, TD 60\u00b0-ice 75\u00b0-snow) of Languta-e-Barfi (6,833m), with one bivouac at 6,400m. This was the fourth ascent of the peak but the first from Pakistan.<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”1200px” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/pioletsdor_2022-3.jpg” title_text=”pioletsdor_2022-3″ show_in_lightbox=”on” show_bottom_space=”off” align=”center” _builder_version=”4.18.0″ width=”100%” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.18.0″ text_font=”Merriweather|900|||||||” text_font_size=”16″ custom_margin=”||||false|false” hover_enabled=”0″ border_style=”solid” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

Saraghrar (Pakistan) NW route<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”800px” custom_margin=”50px|||” custom_padding=”0|0px|22.796875px|0px|false|false” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.18.0″ text_font_size=”16px” hover_enabled=”0″ global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

 <\/p>\n

Around nine days later, on September 3, the Georgians began climbing the northwest face of Saraghrar Northwest at around 5,000m, continuing unroped up the huge snow and ice couloir that characterizes the lower half, to make a first bivouac at 6,200m. Above, a steep granite face formed the meat of the route. Overcoming hard mixed, free and aid climbing, they bivouacked at 6,400m, 6,600m, 6,750m, 6,850m, and ca 7,000m at the top of the face. Days five and six were spent on the difficult, vertical, 250m headwall, one pitch taking seven hours to lead. Above the top of the wall lay a long complex and corniced ridge with 300m of vertical gain. The three Georgians made their last bivouac near the exit to the Spanish route, and on their eighth day slogged up to the summit. The were able to reverse the route to the bivouac above the headwall on the same day, and next morning began rappelling the northwest face, continuing through the night until they reached the bottom.<\/p>\n

The Jury felt the choice of a high unclimbed peak in a less well-known area, a conventional fair-means approach, a previous unattempted face, a small team, a long climb in pure alpine style with significant technical difficulties above 6,200m and a crux section between 6,750m and 7,000m, and the need for a high level of commitment, all exemplify the Piolets d\u2019or Charter.<\/p>\n

Archil Badriashvili’s story<\/a>\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”1200px” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/pioletsdor_2022-2.jpg” title_text=”pioletsdor_2022-2″ show_in_lightbox=”on” show_bottom_space=”off” align=”center” _builder_version=”4.18.0″ width=”100%” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.18.0″ text_font=”Merriweather|900|||||||” text_font_size=”16″ custom_margin=”||||false|false” hover_enabled=”0″ border_style=”solid” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

Moowalk Fitz Roy traverse, piolet d’Or for Sean Villanueva<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”800px” custom_margin=”50px|||” custom_padding=”0|0px|22.796875px|0px|false|false” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.18.0″ text_font_size=”16px” hover_enabled=”0″ global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

Piolet d’Or : Fitz Roy Traverse (solo)<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Moonwalk Traverse (4,000m+, 6c 50\u00b0) \u2013 the first complete south to north traverse of the Fitz Roy Massif<\/strong> (Aguja de l\u2019S to Aguja Guillaumet), from February 5-10, solo. Over five days in February 2014, Americans Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold pulled off an astonishing and much-coveted ridge traverse when they crossed the entire Fitz Roy Group from north to south \u2013 Aguja Guillaumet to Aguja de l\u2019S. In 2015 the Fitz Traverse was awarded a Piolet d\u2019Or.<\/p>\n

In early 2020, stuck in El Chalt\u00e9n after the start of the pandemic and with seemingly many more cases and restrictions in Europe, the Belgian Sean Villanueva O\u2019Driscoll<\/strong> decided to stay, locked into this giant playground. By early February 2021, he was ready to embark on a dream: to traverse the entire Fitz Roy Massif, solo, from south to north. The project, over five kilometres in length and with more than 4,000m of total elevation gain, would follow the skyline from Aguja de l\u2018S, over Aguja de Saint Exup\u00e9ry, Aguja Rafael Ju\u00e1rez, Aguja Poincenot, Aguja Kakito, Cerro Fitz Roy, Aguja Val Biois, Aguja Mermoz, Aguja Guillaumet Sur, and finally Aguja Guillaumet. Villanueva O\u2019Driscoll took a light sac, a small haul bag (which later broke, becoming unusable), 10 days food, a sleeping bag, small tent and tin whistle. The starting weight was nearly 30kg.<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=”#000000″ quote_icon_background_color=”#ffffff” _builder_version=”4.18.0″ body_font=”Oswald|700||on|||||” body_text_align=”center” body_text_color=”#000000″ body_font_size=”30″ use_background_color=”off” custom_margin=”||||false|false” hover_enabled=”0″ saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

The style of this traverse, and the mental commitment it represents, pleased the jury<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”800px” custom_margin=”50px|||” custom_padding=”0|0px|22.796875px|0px|false|false” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.18.0″ text_font_size=”16px” hover_enabled=”0″ global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

On the first day, the single lead rope he was using sustained three core shots and only just lasted to the end of the traverse. Not much later he lost cams when a gear loop broke. He climbed free, mostly on-sight, and self-belayed with a Grigri on all but the easiest (scrambling) pitches, resulting in him covering most of the ground three times. He carried no communication device and due to the quiet nature of the mountains at that time, met only three other teams. Prolific Patagonian activist, Colin Haley, felt it was undoubtedly the most impressive solo ascent ever made in this region.<\/p>\n

The Jury felt this was an elegant and sustained line, which had been attempted or conceived by several parties, although no one appears to have considered it for a solo outing – an adventure unattainable for most climbers. Whilst, apart from a few pitches, none of the terrain was new, the style was outstanding, combining technical climbing, endurance, mental commitment, and considerable Patagonia experience. There was admiration for the optimistic attitude, at first when the country was brought into lockdown and then on the initial stages of the route, when faced with gear damage and loss.<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”1200px” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/pioletsdor_2022.jpg” title_text=”pioletsdor_2022″ show_in_lightbox=”on” show_bottom_space=”off” align=”center” _builder_version=”4.18.0″ width=”100%” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.18.0″ text_font=”Merriweather|900|||||||” text_font_size=”16″ custom_margin=”||||false|false” border_style=”solid” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}”]

L’ar\u00eate sud-est de l’Annapurna III des Ukrainiens, mention sp\u00e9ciale<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”800px” custom_margin=”50px|||” custom_padding=”0|0px|22.796875px|0px|false|false” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.18.0″ text_font_size=”16px” hover_enabled=”0″ global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

Annapurna III, south east ridge, Special Jury Award<\/strong><\/h2>\n

The first ascent of the southeast ridge of Annapurna III (7,555m), Annapurna Himal, via the route Patience (2,950m, 6a A3 M6 80\u00b0 ice and 90\u00b0 snow), by Nikita Balabanov, Mikail Fomin, <\/strong>and Viacheslav Polezhaiko<\/strong> (Ukraine). Sixteen days (October 22 \u2013 November 6) to the summit from base camp. The three then descended new ground on the west face for a further three days. The long-awaited first ascent of the southeast ridge of Annapurna III (7,555m) has widely been acclaimed as one of the greatest achievements in Himalayan alpinism in the last few years.<\/p>\n

Nikita Balabanov, Mikail Fomin, and Viacheslav Polezhaiko (Ukraine) spent 19 days on the mountain, succeeding where many other previous attempts, dating back to 1981 and including their own in 2019, had failed. The route is tactically complicated, extremely committing, and can likely only be achieved when the team has excellent skills, high levels of endurance, and judgement. It also lies in a sector of the country that notably receives worse weather than most of the Nepal Himalaya. The three Ukrainians acclimatized by summiting a mountain of equal height, the adjacent 7,525m Annapurna IV. They more or less followed a line that had been climbed previously to the northwest ridge but not completed to the summit. Well over a week later, with their sacs weighing 22-24kg, they crossed the bergschrund below the southeast ridge at 4,600m. They were carrying 12 days food and fuel.<\/p>\n

Despite an excellent forecast, the weather was poor throughout their ascent. However, conditions on the mountain were much drier than their previous attempt, making the climbing harder and slower. At 6,250m they met the technical rock crux; a steep crumbling chimney, climbed in crampons. At around 6,500m they reached the 1981 high point (equalled but not surpassed by several subsequent parties), where a ca 70m, unprotected, knife-edge snow ridge is interrupted by a very sharp drop. This section \u2013 the psychological crux – succumbed to prolonged and creative shovelling. At 7,100m the southeast ridge merges with the south ridge and from there the terrain to the summit is straightforward. Bitter cold and high winds made for a slow ascent and another bivouac at 7,400m.<\/p>\n

From the summit, unwilling to descend the route due to its obvious danger, and unable to continue down the east ridge due to the powerful headwind, they opted for the unknown west face. This proved yet another ordeal, but eventually they reached the East Annapurna Glacier. While such an ascent should clearly be awarded, certain aspects do not comply with the Piolets d\u2019Or Charter.<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.18.0″ text_font_size=”16px” hover_enabled=”0″ global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

Annapurna III, south east ridge, Special Jury Award<\/strong><\/h2>\n

The first ascent of the southeast ridge of Annapurna III (7,555m), Annapurna Himal, via the route Patience (2,950m, 6a A3 M6 80\u00b0 ice and 90\u00b0 snow), by Nikita Balabanov, Mikail Fomin, <\/strong>and Viacheslav Polezhaiko<\/strong> (Ukraine). Sixteen days (October 22 \u2013 November 6) to the summit from base camp. The three then descended new ground on the west face for a further three days. The long-awaited first ascent of the southeast ridge of Annapurna III (7,555m) has widely been acclaimed as one of the greatest achievements in Himalayan alpinism in the last few years.<\/p>\n

Nikita Balabanov, Mikail Fomin, and Viacheslav Polezhaiko (Ukraine) spent 19 days on the mountain, succeeding where many other previous attempts, dating back to 1981 and including their own in 2019, had failed. The route is tactically complicated, extremely committing, and can likely only be achieved when the team has excellent skills, high levels of endurance, and judgement. It also lies in a sector of the country that notably receives worse weather than most of the Nepal Himalaya. The three Ukrainians acclimatized by summiting a mountain of equal height, the adjacent 7,525m Annapurna IV. They more or less followed a line that had been climbed previously to the northwest ridge but not completed to the summit. Well over a week later, with their sacs weighing 22-24kg, they crossed the bergschrund below the southeast ridge at 4,600m. They were carrying 12 days food and fuel.<\/p>\n

Despite an excellent forecast, the weather was poor throughout their ascent. However, conditions on the mountain were much drier than their previous attempt, making the climbing harder and slower. At 6,250m they met the technical rock crux; a steep crumbling chimney, climbed in crampons. At around 6,500m they reached the 1981 high point (equalled but not surpassed by several subsequent parties), where a ca 70m, unprotected, knife-edge snow ridge is interrupted by a very sharp drop. This section \u2013 the psychological crux – succumbed to prolonged and creative shovelling. At 7,100m the southeast ridge merges with the south ridge and from there the terrain to the summit is straightforward. Bitter cold and high winds made for a slow ascent and another bivouac at 7,400m.<\/p>\n

From the summit, unwilling to descend the route due to its obvious danger, and unable to continue down the east ridge due to the powerful headwind, they opted for the unknown west face. This proved yet another ordeal, but eventually they reached the East Annapurna Glacier. While such an ascent should clearly be awarded, certain aspects do not comply with the Piolets d\u2019Or Charter.<\/p>\n

Piolets d\u2019Or Charter and helicopter use – ethical and environmental considerations – official statement<\/strong><\/h2>\n

“The southeast side of Annapurna III rises from the cirque at the head of the Seti Khola. Accessing this cirque was always considered very difficult and dangerous, traversing steep, unstable ground above the Seti Khola Gorge. However, several landslide incidents resulted in expeditions in 2007 and 2010 failing to reach the mountain because team members or the porters themselves declared the terrain too dangerous. Since that time four expeditions, including the Ukrainians in 2019 and 2021, have used a helicopter to transport themselves and all equipment into the cirque. After descending the far side of the mountain, the three Ukrainians were flown out by helicopter from 5,000m, low on the East Annapurna Glacier (they had asked for a pick-up at 4,500m). Shortly after, one member was flown back to the cirque to collect base camp. All were in Kathmandu the same day.<\/p>\n

The purpose of the Piolets d\u2019Or is not only to recognise the most significant ascents of the previous year, but also to use these ascents to promote distinct ethical messages regarding our practices as alpinists, in line with the UNESCO classification of Alpinism as an intangible cultural heritage. The Charter states that \u201cstyle and means of ascent take precedence over reaching the objective itself\u201d. Access is not, as such, part of an ascent but is obviously becoming an important ethical and environmental issue. The spirit of the Piolets d’Or suggests that when a place cannot be reached through regular transport routes, or on the ground \u201cby fair means\u201d, it should be left for future generations. The Charter also includes the criterion \u201crespect for the environment\u201d.<\/p>\n

In the last decade or so the usage of helicopters for access in the Himalaya has grown massively, especially in Nepal where helicopter use has been largely unregulated. Hiring a private helicopter to reach the base camps of 8,000m peaks, and to fly from base camp to base camp to make a series of fast ascents, has become very common for those who have the financial resources. This in a country where, traditionally, base camps have been accessed on foot with the help of local porters. Those who visit the high mountains see, more than most, the huge toll that global warming is extracting on the environment. True, a significant portion of an expedition\u2019s carbon footprint can be attributed to the international flight, but the systematic use of helicopter charter in Nepal, and more generally elsewhere, is becoming highly problematic. It is incumbent on us as mountaineers to act responsibly and limit our impact.<\/p>\n

The Piolets d\u2019Or would like to send a clear message that the high mountains and the people who live beneath are being increasingly damaged by climate change. It therefore does not support the use of the helicopter for general access. The Jury agrees that from a climbing perspective the new route on Annapurna III is one of the major ascents in recent years. However, it also agrees that it does not comply with all aspects of the Charter. After considering both points it has decided it cannot award a Piolet d\u2019Or and has conferred instead a Special Jury Award.”<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]\n\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Next November in Brian\u00e7on, the Piolets d’Or 2022 will be awarded to the…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":58333,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"[et_pb_section fb_built=\"1\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" background_size=\"initial\" background_position=\"top_left\" background_repeat=\"repeat\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.18.0\" header_font=\"|on|||\" text_orientation=\"center\" module_alignment=\"center\" hover_enabled=\"0\" header_font_size_tablet=\"\" header_font_size_phone=\"16px\" header_font_size_last_edited=\"on|desktop\" header_2_font_size_tablet=\"\" header_2_font_size_phone=\"16px\" header_2_font_size_last_edited=\"on|phone\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" sticky_enabled=\"0\"]\n

Fin novembre \u00e0 Brian\u00e7on, les Piolets d'Or 2022 seront remis aux G\u00e9orgiens Archil Badriashvili, Baqar Gelachvili et Giorgi Tepnadze pour leur premi\u00e8re au Saraghrar (7 303 m, Pakistan) et au Belge Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll pour sa travers\u00e9e solitaire du massif du Fitz Roy. Les Piolets d'Or attribuent \u00e9galement un prix sp\u00e9cial du jury au trio ukrainien auteur de la premi\u00e8re de l'ar\u00eate sud-est de l'Annapurna III, trio auquel \u00e9chappe un Piolet d'Or pour utilisation de l'h\u00e9licopt\u00e8re.<\/strong><\/h2>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=\"1\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" custom_padding=\"||3px|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.18.0\" text_font_size=\"16px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\n[dropcap size=big]C[\/dropcap]e sera sans nul doute une belle \u00e9dition des Piolets d'Or, qui vont avoir lieu \u00e0 Brian\u00e7on du 18 au 20 novembre. Le Piolet d'Or Carri\u00e8re sera remis au slov\u00e8ne Silvo Karo<\/a>. Voici le communiqu\u00e9 des Piolets d'Or concernant cette cuv\u00e9e 2022. \"Apr\u00e8s 2020, ann\u00e9e o\u00f9 la mobilit\u00e9 internationale a \u00e9t\u00e9 fortement affect\u00e9e par la pand\u00e9mie de COVID, l'ann\u00e9e 2021 a vu une forte pouss\u00e9e d'activit\u00e9, malgr\u00e9 les restrictions en cours. Il y a eu un nombre et une diversit\u00e9 remarquables de premi\u00e8res ascensions \u00e0 travers le monde, par des alpinistes d'origines tr\u00e8s diverses. L'alpinisme, qui a \u00e9t\u00e9 reconnu en d\u00e9cembre 2019 par l'UNESCO comme un patrimoine culturel mondial immat\u00e9riel, conform\u00e9ment \u00e0 la Charte des Piolets d'Or, est bien vivant ! Nous sommes donc heureux d'annoncer que cette ann\u00e9e, notre jury international compos\u00e9 de Conrad Anker, Alex Bluemel, Genki Narumi, Paul Ramsden, Patrick Wagnon et Mikel Zabalza a s\u00e9lectionn\u00e9 deux 2022 Piolets d'Or.\"\n\nOu plut\u00f4t, deux et demi, avec une mention sp\u00e9ciale qui aurait pu \u00eatre un Piolet d'Or unique, si cette ascension majeure, l'ar\u00eate sud-est de l'Annapurna III par trois Ukrainiens, n'avait pas \u00e9t\u00e9 rendue possible par un acc\u00e8s et un retour h\u00e9liport\u00e9, qui n'a pas \u00e9t\u00e9 au go\u00fbt du jury.\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row disabled_on=\"|on|on\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" _module_preset=\"default\" vertical_offset_tablet=\"0\" max_width=\"1200px\" global_module=\"225188\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" background_size=\"initial\" background_position=\"top_left\" background_repeat=\"repeat\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/pub-mai22.png\" title_text=\"pub-mai22\" url=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/abonnement\/\" url_new_window=\"on\" _builder_version=\"4.17.3\" _module_preset=\"default\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row disabled_on=\"on|off|off\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" _module_preset=\"default\" background_size=\"initial\" background_position=\"top_left\" background_repeat=\"repeat\" max_width=\"1200px\" global_module=\"55929\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" _module_preset=\"default\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/pub-mai22-desktop.png\" title_text=\"pub-mai22-desktop\" url=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/abonnement\/\" url_new_window=\"on\" _builder_version=\"4.17.3\" _module_preset=\"default\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=\"1\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" custom_margin_tablet=\"\" custom_margin_phone=\"\" custom_margin_last_edited=\"on|desktop\" custom_padding=\"4px||||false|false\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.18.0\" max_width=\"800px\" custom_margin=\"50px|||\" custom_padding=\"27px|0px|22.796875px|0px|false|false\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.18.0\" text_font_size=\"16px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n

Piolet d'Or g\u00e9orgien<\/strong><\/h2>\nLe massif du Saraghrar, situ\u00e9 juste au sud de la fronti\u00e8re afghane dans l'actuel Hindu Kush pakistanais peu visit\u00e9, compte plusieurs sommets, mais peu d'alpinistes les ont atteints. Le Saraghrar Nord-Ouest (7 300 m) n'a jamais \u00e9t\u00e9 escalad\u00e9, malgr\u00e9 des tentatives prolong\u00e9es et courageuses sur le contrefort sud-ouest par trois fortes exp\u00e9ditions espagnoles dans les ann\u00e9es 1970 et au d\u00e9but des ann\u00e9es 1980. La derni\u00e8re de ces exp\u00e9ditions a atteint 7 150 m sur l'ar\u00eate nord-ouest, \u00e0 un point qu'elle a nomm\u00e9 Saraghrar Nord-Ouest II. Les G\u00e9orgiens Archil Badriashvili, Baqar Gelashvili <\/strong>et Giorgi Tepnadze<\/strong> ont choisi la face nord-ouest, qui n'avait pas \u00e9t\u00e9 tent\u00e9e jusqu'alors et dont la partie sup\u00e9rieure est une paroi rocheuse raide - Headwall - qui se fond dans l'ar\u00eate nord-ouest. Ils ont \u00e9galement choisi de faire la tentative en septembre, plus tard dans l'ann\u00e9e que d'habitude, afin de r\u00e9duire la chaleur diurne et les chutes de pierres.\n\nDepuis un camp de base situ\u00e9 \u00e0 environ 4 200 m dans le Rosh Gol, et sans grande pr\u00e9-acclimatation, les trois hommes se sont \" \u00e9chauff\u00e9s \" en effectuant la premi\u00e8re ascension de la face sud et de l'ar\u00eate est (1 800 m, TD, glace 75\u00b0) du Languta-e-Barfi (6 833 m), avec un bivouac \u00e0 6 400m. Il s'agit de la quatri\u00e8me ascension de ce sommet, mais de la premi\u00e8re depuis le Pakistan.\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=\"#000000\" quote_icon_background_color=\"#ffffff\" _builder_version=\"4.18.0\" body_font=\"Oswald|700||on|||||\" body_text_align=\"center\" body_text_color=\"#000000\" body_font_size=\"30\" use_background_color=\"off\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nLe choix d'un sommet inconnu dans une r\u00e9gion tr\u00e8s peu visit\u00e9e a plu au jury des Piolets d'OR\n\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"1200px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/pioletsdor_2022-3.jpg\" title_text=\"pioletsdor_2022-3\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" _builder_version=\"4.18.0\" width=\"100%\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.18.0\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nSaraghrar (Pakistan), le Piolet d'Or g\u00e9orgien.\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" custom_margin=\"50px|||\" custom_padding=\"0|0px|22.796875px|0px|false|false\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.18.0\" text_font_size=\"16px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nEnviron neuf jours plus tard, le 3 septembre, les G\u00e9orgiens ont commenc\u00e9 l'ascension de la face nord-ouest du Saraghrar Nord-Ouest \u00e0 environ 5 000 m, poursuivant l'immense couloir de neige et de glace qui caract\u00e9rise la moiti\u00e9 inf\u00e9rieure, pour faire un premier bivouac \u00e0 6 200 m. Au-dessus, une paroi granitique raide constitue le c\u0153ur de l'itin\u00e9raire. Surmontant de dures escalades en mixte, en libre et en artif, ils ont bivouaqu\u00e9 \u00e0 6 400 m, 6 600 m, 6 750 m, 6 850 m et \u00e0 environ 7 000 m au sommet de la face. Les jours cinq et six ont \u00e9t\u00e9 consacr\u00e9s au Headwall haut de 250 m, dont une longueur leur a pris sept heures. Au-dessus, une longue ar\u00eate complexe et sinueuse de 300 m de d\u00e9nivel\u00e9 m\u00e8ne \u00e0 la cime. Les trois G\u00e9orgiens ont fait leur dernier bivouac pr\u00e8s de la sortie de la voie espagnole, et le huiti\u00e8me jour, ils ont pein\u00e9 jusqu'au sommet. Le m\u00eame jour, ils sont redescendus jusqu'au bivouac \u00e0 la sortie du Headwall et, le lendemain matin, ils ont commenc\u00e9 \u00e0 descendre en rappel la face nord-ouest et ont continu\u00e9 toute la nuit jusqu'en bas.\n\nLe jury a estim\u00e9 que le choix d'un haut sommet non escalad\u00e9 dans une r\u00e9gion moins connue, une approche conventionnelle by fair-means<\/em>, une face pr\u00e9c\u00e9demment non tent\u00e9e, une petite \u00e9quipe, une longue ascension dans un style purement alpin avec des difficult\u00e9s techniques importantes au-dessus de 6200m et une section crux entre 6750m et 7000m, avec la n\u00e9cessit\u00e9 d'un haut niveau d'engagement, sont autant d'\u00e9l\u00e9ments qui traduisent une r\u00e9alisation dont les caract\u00e9ristiques r\u00e9pondent \u00e0 la Charte des Piolets d'or.\n\nSaraghrar Nord-Ouest, premi\u00e8re ascension par la face nord-ouest, 2 300m, ED2 (ou cotation russe 6B), 6b M5+ A3+ 80-90\u00b0, du 3 au 10 septembre 2021.<\/strong>\n\nLire le r\u00e9cit d'Archil Badriashvili<\/a>\u00a0<\/strong>\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"1200px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/pioletsdor_2022-2.jpg\" title_text=\"pioletsdor_2022-2\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" _builder_version=\"4.18.0\" width=\"100%\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.18.0\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nLa travers\u00e9e en solo du Fitz Roy, piolet d'Or pour Sean Villanueva\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" custom_margin=\"50px|||\" custom_padding=\"0|0px|22.796875px|0px|false|false\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.18.0\" text_font_size=\"16px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n

Piolet d'Or belge<\/strong><\/h2>\nPendant cinq jours, en f\u00e9vrier 2014, les Am\u00e9ricains Tommy Caldwell et Alex Honnold ont r\u00e9alis\u00e9 une \u00e9tonnante et tr\u00e8s convoit\u00e9e travers\u00e9e d'ar\u00eates en franchissant l'int\u00e9gralit\u00e9 des sommets de la cha\u00eene du Fitz Roy, du nord au sud, de l'Aiguille Guillaumet \u00e0 l'Aiguille de l'S. En 2015, cette\u00a0Fitz Traverse<\/em> a \u00e9t\u00e9 r\u00e9compens\u00e9e par un Piolet d'Or.\n\nAu d\u00e9but de l'ann\u00e9e 2020, coinc\u00e9 \u00e0 El Chalt\u00e9n apr\u00e8s le d\u00e9but de la pand\u00e9mie et avec apparemment beaucoup plus de cas et de restrictions en Europe, le Belge Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll<\/strong>\u00a0a d\u00e9cid\u00e9 de rester en Patagonie pour profiter de ce terrain de jeu g\u00e9ant. Au d\u00e9but du mois de f\u00e9vrier 2021, il est pr\u00eat \u00e0 se lancer dans un r\u00eave : traverser les sommets de la cha\u00eene du Fitz Roy en solitaire, mais du sud au nord. Le projet, d'une longueur de plus de cinq kilom\u00e8tres et avec plus de 4 000 m\u00e8tres de d\u00e9nivel\u00e9 au total, suivra la ligne d'horizon de l'Aguille de l'S \u00e0 l'Aiguille Guillaumet, par les aiguilles de Saint Exup\u00e9ry, Rafael Ju\u00e1rez, Poincenot, Kakito, le Fitz Roy, les aiguilles Val Biois, Mermoz et Guillaumet sud.\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=\"#000000\" quote_icon_background_color=\"#ffffff\" _builder_version=\"4.18.0\" body_font=\"Oswald|700||on|||||\" body_text_align=\"center\" body_text_color=\"#000000\" body_font_size=\"30\" use_background_color=\"off\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nLe style de cette travers\u00e9e, et l'engagement mental qu'elle repr\u00e9sente, a plu au jury\n\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" custom_margin=\"50px|||\" custom_padding=\"0|0px|22.796875px|0px|false|false\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.18.0\" text_font_size=\"16px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nVillanueva O'Driscoll \u00e9tait \u00e9quip\u00e9 d'un sac de hissage, de 10 jours de nourriture, d'un sac de couchage et d'une petite tente. Le poids de son \u00e9quipement au d\u00e9part \u00e9tait de pr\u00e8s de 30 kg. Le premier jour, la seule corde qu'il utilisait a subi trois mauvais accrocs et a tout juste tenu jusqu'\u00e0 la fin de la travers\u00e9e. Peu de temps apr\u00e8s, il a perdu des coinceurs.\n\nVillanueva a grimp\u00e9 en libre, la plupart du temps \u00e0 vue, et s'est auto-assur\u00e9 avec un Grigri dans la plupart des longueurs, sauf les plus faciles. Il n'avait aucun appareil de communication et n'a rencontr\u00e9 que trois autres cord\u00e9es. Colin Haley<\/strong>, sp\u00e9cialiste de la Patagonie, a estim\u00e9 qu'il s'agissait sans doute de l'ascension en solitaire la plus impressionnante jamais r\u00e9alis\u00e9e dans cette r\u00e9gion. Le jury a estim\u00e9 qu'il s'agissait d'une ligne \u00e9l\u00e9gante et soutenue, qui avait \u00e9t\u00e9 tent\u00e9e ou con\u00e7ue par plusieurs alpinistes, bien qu'aucun ne semblait l'avoir envisag\u00e9e en solo : une aventure inimaginable pour la plupart des grimpeurs. Bien qu'\u00e0 l'exception de quelques longueurs, aucun terrain n'\u00e9tait nouveau, mais le style de cette travers\u00e9e est exceptionnel, combinant escalade technique, endurance, engagement mental et une exp\u00e9rience consid\u00e9rable de la Patagonie.\n\nMoonwalk Traverse (4,000m+, 6c 50\u00b0) \u2013 la premiere travers\u00e9e sud-nord du massif du Fitz Roy (Aiguille de l\u2019S \u00e0 l'Aiguille Guillaumet), du 5 au 10 f\u00e9vrier, en solo.<\/strong>\n\nLire l'interview \u00e0 chaud de Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll<\/strong><\/a>\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"1200px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/pioletsdor_2022.jpg\" title_text=\"pioletsdor_2022\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" _builder_version=\"4.18.0\" width=\"100%\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.18.0\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nL'ar\u00eate sud-est de l'Annapurna III des Ukrainiens, mention sp\u00e9ciale\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" custom_margin=\"50px|||\" custom_padding=\"0|0px|22.796875px|0px|false|false\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.18.0\" text_font_size=\"16px\" hover_enabled=\"0\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" sticky_enabled=\"0\"]\n

Prix sp\u00e9cial pour l'Annapurna III, ar\u00eate sud-est<\/strong><\/h2>\nLa premi\u00e8re ascension de l'ar\u00eate sud-est de l'Annapurna III (7 555 m,\u00a0Annapurna Himal), par l'itin\u00e9raire Patience (2 950m, 6a A3 M6 90\u00b0<\/strong>)<\/strong>, oeuvre de\u00a0Nikita Balabanov, Mikail Fomin et Viacheslav Polezhaiko<\/strong> (Ukraine), ne re\u00e7oit qu'un prix sp\u00e9cial du jury. Seize jours (22 octobre - 6 novembre) d'ascension technique et engag\u00e9e ont \u00e9t\u00e9 n\u00e9cessaire \u00e0 la solide cord\u00e9e ukrainienne pour gagner le sommet depuis le camp de base. Les trois hommes sont ensuite descendus en face ouest, pendant trois jours suppl\u00e9mentaires.\n\nCette ascension absolument marquante ne pouvait \u00e9chapper au jury mais il n'a pas voulu la r\u00e9compenser d'un Piolet d'Or et lui attribue un prix sp\u00e9cial. En cause, l'utilisation de l'h\u00e9licopt\u00e8re par les Ukrainiens pour acc\u00e9der au camp de base, et pour sortir de la montagne au retour. Bien que le jury reconnaisse les immenses difficult\u00e9s d'acc\u00e8s \u00e0 cette zone de l'Annapurna III, il condamne l'utilisation massive et de plus en plus fr\u00e9quente de l'h\u00e9licopt\u00e8re au N\u00e9pal. \"L'objectif des Piolets d'Or est non seulement de reconna\u00eetre les ascensions les plus significatives de l'ann\u00e9e pr\u00e9c\u00e9dente, mais aussi d'utiliser ces ascensions pour promouvoir des messages \u00e9thiques distincts concernant nos pratiques en tant qu'alpinistes, conform\u00e9ment au classement de l'alpinisme en tant que patrimoine culturel immat\u00e9riel par l'UNESCO.<\/em>\" Donc niet \u00e0 cause de l'h\u00e9licopt\u00e8re : ce qui fera sans doute r\u00e9agir.\n\nPlus d'informations sur cette r\u00e9alisation<\/a>\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[549,9,20],"tags":[61,120,189,184],"class_list":["post-58332","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-andes","category-himalayas","category-mountaineering","tag-annapurna","tag-fitz-roy","tag-piolet-dor","tag-saraghrar"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/58332","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=58332"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/58332\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":58340,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/58332\/revisions\/58340"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/58333"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=58332"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=58332"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=58332"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}