{"id":58744,"date":"2022-12-20T07:46:31","date_gmt":"2022-12-20T06:46:31","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/cogne-ice-opening-la-saison-de-glace-est-lancee\/"},"modified":"2022-12-20T12:54:24","modified_gmt":"2022-12-20T11:54:24","slug":"cogne-ice-opening-season-on","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/cogne-ice-opening-season-on\/","title":{"rendered":"Cogne Ice Opening: the ice season is on!"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>[et_pb_section fb_built=&#8221;1&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=&#8221;1&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_margin=&#8221;||||false|false&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;||3px|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; background_size=&#8221;initial&#8221; background_position=&#8221;top_left&#8221; background_repeat=&#8221;repeat&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; header_font=&#8221;|on|||&#8221; text_orientation=&#8221;center&#8221; module_alignment=&#8221;center&#8221; header_font_size_tablet=&#8221;&#8221; header_font_size_phone=&#8221;16px&#8221; header_font_size_last_edited=&#8221;on|desktop&#8221; header_2_font_size_tablet=&#8221;&#8221; header_2_font_size_phone=&#8221;16px&#8221; header_2_font_size_last_edited=&#8221;on|phone&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<h2><strong>The ice climbing season is launched: in the Aosta Valley, the <em>Cogne Ice Opening festival\u00a0<\/em>has lived up its promise with meetings, renowned mountaineers, complete workshops for all levels, manufacturers who lend ice axes and boots, and ice that is already abundant. And then, as soon as the Mont-Blanc tunnel is crossed, it&#8217;s the holidays, with the ice axes itching!<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=&#8221;1&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_margin=&#8221;||||false|false&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;5px||3px|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; max_width=&#8221;800px&#8221; use_custom_width=&#8221;on&#8221; custom_width_px=&#8221;800px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;16px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p><span class=\"cb-dropcap-big\">T<\/span>hese meetings are rare, and precious. At the beginning of the season, the ski or ice gatherings as here in Cogne, are a gamble &#8211; that of the conditions &#8211; and a promise: that of bathing for three days in the culture of ice climbing, in one of its most beautiful Alpine locations: in Cogne in the Aosta region.<\/p>\n<p>Do we need to introduce Cogne? Take beautiful villages &#8211; Cogne, Lillaz &#8211; still preserved, with traditions, local wine and cheese (Fontine) in abundance, the proximity of the Gran Paradiso National Park, and of course, icefalls galore, Cogne being situated at an altitude of over 1500 meters. Add to this the warm welcome of the locals, and you have one of the most beautiful European spots for this slice of winter mountaineering that is ice climbing.<\/p>\n<p>It is in Lillaz, a hamlet above Cogne, that <strong>Matthias Scherer<\/strong> lives all year round. He organises the Cogne Ice Opening, a three-day festival and workshops dedicated to ice climbing. This Thursday, December 15th, was the start of three days of meetings, and of ice, as the cold snap of early December has begun to take its toll.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=&#8221;1_2,1_2&#8243; use_custom_gutter=&#8221;on&#8221; gutter_width=&#8221;2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; max_width=&#8221;1200px&#8221; use_custom_width=&#8221;on&#8221; custom_width_px=&#8221;800px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/jocelynchavy_cogne-9466-2.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;jocelynchavy_cogne-9466-2&#8243; show_in_lightbox=&#8221;on&#8221; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Merriweather|900|||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;16&#8243; custom_margin=&#8221;||||false|false&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221; saved_tabs=&#8221;all&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Mount Blanc from Lillaz \u00a9JC<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/jocelynchavy_cogne-4671.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;jocelynchavy_cogne-4671&#8243; show_in_lightbox=&#8221;on&#8221; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Merriweather|900|||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;16&#8243; custom_margin=&#8221;||||false|false&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221; saved_tabs=&#8221;all&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Cogne Ice Opening \u00a9JC<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; max_width=&#8221;1200px&#8221; use_custom_width=&#8221;on&#8221; custom_width_px=&#8221;800px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/jocelynchavy_cogne-2.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;jocelynchavy_cogne&#8211;2&#8243; show_in_lightbox=&#8221;on&#8221; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Merriweather|900|||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;16&#8243; custom_margin=&#8221;||||false|false&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221; saved_tabs=&#8221;all&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Welcome to Cogne ! \u00a9JC<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_margin=&#8221;-1px|auto||auto||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=&#8221;#000000&#8243; quote_icon_background_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; body_font=&#8221;Oswald|700||on|||||&#8221; body_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; body_text_color=&#8221;#000000&#8243; body_font_size=&#8221;30&#8243; use_background_color=&#8221;off&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;||||false|false&#8221; saved_tabs=&#8221;all&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Early season update<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; max_width=&#8221;800px&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;||||false|false&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0|0px||0px|false|false&#8221; use_custom_width=&#8221;on&#8221; custom_width_px=&#8221;800&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;16px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">As <strong>Benjamin Ribeyre<\/strong>, one of the guides who supervised the festival&#8217;s workshops, tells us: &#8220;<em>There is a certain heterogeneity in the groups and in the end it is a very good thing. Why is this a good thing? Because the more experienced people give advice and tips to the beginners, an exchange that offers so many ways to remember good practices.<\/em>&#8221; This is the whole point of the early season events, explains Benjamin, who is also president of the Oisans-Ecrins guide company at La Grave.<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;<em>Like the Premi\u00e8res Neiges event last Saturday in Villar d&#8217;Ar\u00e8ne, dedicated to the discovery of ski touring and snow prevention, the Cogne Ice Opening workshops are an opportunity to get back into the swing of things at the beginning of the season: technique, safety, on all terrains, for everyone &#8211; and even for the guides! In the Amphitheatro sector we were able to offer both pure ice lines and dry tooling routes.<\/em>&#8220;<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">The day before, it&#8217;s a tool sharpening session with Petzl. In the evening, after one (or two) beers at the <em>Bar Cascate<\/em>, it&#8217;s an opportunity to discuss the different ways of dealing with ice: the debate rages on between the supporters of the &#8220;North American&#8221; ethic, according to which no rope party can go behind a rope party that has already started a stunt, and the more &#8230; lax (or French) climbers, for whom, despite the obvious risks of falling icicles, it remains possible. Fortunately, in the classics like <em>Lau Bij<\/em> (two pitches), the few aspiring climbers wait their turn.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=&#8221;1_2,1_2&#8243; use_custom_gutter=&#8221;on&#8221; gutter_width=&#8221;2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; max_width=&#8221;1200px&#8221; use_custom_width=&#8221;on&#8221; custom_width_px=&#8221;800px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/jocelynchavy_cogne-9077.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;jocelynchavy_cogne-9077&#8243; show_in_lightbox=&#8221;on&#8221; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Merriweather|900|||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;16&#8243; custom_margin=&#8221;||||false|false&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221; saved_tabs=&#8221;all&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>On the Molines site. \u00a9JC<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/jocelynchavy_cogne-9123.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;jocelynchavy_cogne-9123&#8243; show_in_lightbox=&#8221;on&#8221; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Merriweather|900|||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;16&#8243; custom_margin=&#8221;||||false|false&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221; saved_tabs=&#8221;all&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>The trainees enjoy the morning sun in Molines. \u00a9JC<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; max_width=&#8221;1200px&#8221; use_custom_width=&#8221;on&#8221; custom_width_px=&#8221;800px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/jocelynchavy_cogne-0154.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;jocelynchavy_cogne-0154&#8243; show_in_lightbox=&#8221;on&#8221; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Merriweather|900|||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;16&#8243; custom_margin=&#8221;||||false|false&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221; saved_tabs=&#8221;all&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>The group on the site of Molines, in the fresh air! \u00a9JC<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=&#8221;1&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_margin=&#8221;||||false|false&#8221; custom_margin_tablet=&#8221;&#8221; custom_margin_phone=&#8221;&#8221; custom_margin_last_edited=&#8221;on|desktop&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;4px||||false|false&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; max_width=&#8221;800px&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;50px|||&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0|0px|22.796875px|0px|false|false&#8221; use_custom_width=&#8221;on&#8221; custom_width_px=&#8221;800&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;16px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<h2><strong>No borders for Cogne<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p class=\"p1\">For three days, the participants of the <strong>Cogne Ice Opening<\/strong> were able to test the latest Scarpa boots, the ice axes and crampons provided by Petzl, Camp and Grivel, and even test the Samaya bags, before heading for the workshops: in Molines, a section of waterfalls has been created by watering, and is a superb spot of about twenty metres high and one hundred metres wide, enough to put a bunch of reels on! Another ideal sector: the Amphitheatre of Lillaz, just above the eponymous waterfall, which reserves pillars of ice and dry tooling lines, all supervised by the guides of Cogne and Aosta Valley, the guide<strong> Heike Schmitt<\/strong>, as well as two French guides, B. Ribeyre and Aur\u00e9lien Vaissi\u00e8re.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">For three days, the participants of the Cogne Ice Opening were immersed in the culture of ice and mountaineering, including high-flying, with the Saturday evening event in the Cogne cinema. Three films were presented. The first was by Matteo Della Bordella and David Bacci who told the story of their first ascent of Cerro Torre (with Mr De Zaiacomo). <em>Brothers In Arms<\/em> was the conclusion of a long quest, started by the British climbers, and completed by the Italians &#8211; Matteo Della Bordella&#8217;s Ragni di Lecco rope party, a great achievement overshadowed by the death of Korra Pesce, killed by blocks of ice while opening another route parallel to the Italians&#8217;.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=&#8221;1_2,1_2&#8243; use_custom_gutter=&#8221;on&#8221; gutter_width=&#8221;2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1200px&#8221; use_custom_width=&#8221;on&#8221; custom_width_px=&#8221;800px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/jocelynchavy_cogne-9435.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;jocelynchavy_cogne-9435&#8243; show_in_lightbox=&#8221;on&#8221; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; force_fullwidth=&#8221;on&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Merriweather|900|||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;16&#8243; custom_margin=&#8221;||||false|false&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221; saved_tabs=&#8221;all&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Benjamin Ribeyre \u00a9JC<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/jocelynchavy_cogne-0175.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;jocelynchavy_cogne-0175&#8243; show_in_lightbox=&#8221;on&#8221; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Merriweather|900|||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;16&#8243; custom_margin=&#8221;||||false|false&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221; saved_tabs=&#8221;all&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Matteo Giglio in Molines \u00a9Jocelyn Chavy<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=&#8221;2_3,1_3&#8243; use_custom_gutter=&#8221;on&#8221; gutter_width=&#8221;2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1200px&#8221; use_custom_width=&#8221;on&#8221; custom_width_px=&#8221;800px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;2_3&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/jocelynchavy_cogne-9024.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;jocelynchavy_cogne-9024&#8243; show_in_lightbox=&#8221;on&#8221; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; force_fullwidth=&#8221;on&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Merriweather|900|||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;16&#8243; custom_margin=&#8221;||||false|false&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221; saved_tabs=&#8221;all&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Cogne guides explain the technique \u00a9JC<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_3&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/jocelynchavy_cogne-4657.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;jocelynchavy_cogne-4657&#8243; show_in_lightbox=&#8221;on&#8221; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Merriweather|900|||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;16&#8243; custom_margin=&#8221;||||false|false&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221; saved_tabs=&#8221;all&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Matteo Della Bordella (left) et David Bacci (right) with Matthias Scherer.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=&#8221;1_2,1_2&#8243; use_custom_gutter=&#8221;on&#8221; gutter_width=&#8221;2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1200px&#8221; use_custom_width=&#8221;on&#8221; custom_width_px=&#8221;800px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/jocelynchavy_cogne_tanja-9274.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;jocelynchavy_cogne_tanja-9274&#8243; show_in_lightbox=&#8221;on&#8221; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; force_fullwidth=&#8221;on&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Merriweather|900|||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;16&#8243; custom_margin=&#8221;||||false|false&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221; saved_tabs=&#8221;all&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Tanja Schmitt in <em>Lau Bij<\/em> \u00a9JC<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/jocelynchavy_cogne-9741.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;jocelynchavy_cogne-9741&#8243; show_in_lightbox=&#8221;on&#8221; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Merriweather|900|||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;16&#8243; custom_margin=&#8221;||||false|false&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221; saved_tabs=&#8221;all&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Under the beautiful sun of Valeille \u00a9JC<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=&#8221;1_2,1_2&#8243; use_custom_gutter=&#8221;on&#8221; gutter_width=&#8221;2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1200px&#8221; use_custom_width=&#8221;on&#8221; custom_width_px=&#8221;800px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/jocelynchavy_cogne-4623.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;jocelynchavy_cogne-4623&#8243; show_in_lightbox=&#8221;on&#8221; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; force_fullwidth=&#8221;on&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;16px&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;50px|||||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"Apple-converted-space\"><\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">The evening continued with an ice-cinema session with <em>the Ultra Glace<\/em>, the integral of the Grave or the 5 big stunts linked by L\u00e9o Billon and Benjamin Ribeyre in 2021, 2500 meters of ice in one day! The evening concluded with the beautiful story of J\u00e9r\u00f4me Sullivan and Christophe Ogier about their epic adventure, the first of the Pumari Chish East in the Karakoram (with V. Sauc\u00e8de). Images of very committed mountaineering filled the head, enough to be inspired before a very early morning and very cool (minus sixteen degrees!) for the most motivated, left to climb the classics such as <em>Patri<\/em>.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/jocelynchavy_cogne-9603.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;jocelynchavy_cogne-9603&#8243; show_in_lightbox=&#8221;on&#8221; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Merriweather|900|||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;16&#8243; custom_margin=&#8221;||||false|false&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221; saved_tabs=&#8221;all&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Matthias Scherer in his element in Cogne \u00a9JC<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; max_width=&#8221;800px&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;50px|||&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0|0px|22.796875px|0px|false|false&#8221; use_custom_width=&#8221;on&#8221; custom_width_px=&#8221;800&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;16px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<h2><strong>Italian ice<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">With Matthias Scherer and Tanja Schmitt, we went in search of a nice line in the Valeille valley: but the coveted one, <em>Coyote<\/em>, was not at all in condition: this is the game in ice, the game of uncertainty, a game that allows you to be alone and to enjoy when it works. On the way back, Matthias had an idea, passing the high sword of <em>Hard Ice<\/em>: &#8220;<em>the first pitch is beautiful, with huge jellyfish, like in Norway!<\/em>&#8221; The ice was beautiful, affordable but tricky and technical with those big formations, typical of the big flows in Norway where Matthias and Tanja take up residence every winter. See you in Scandinavia next February for the <em>Arctic Ice Festival<\/em>, organised by the couple of enthusiasts with guide Heike Schmitt,&#8230; for ice enthusiasts.<\/span><\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; max_width=&#8221;800px&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;50px|||&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0|0px|22.796875px|0px|false|false&#8221; use_custom_width=&#8221;on&#8221; custom_width_px=&#8221;800&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/294930485_1988693137999761_5556286056860505423_n.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;294930485_1988693137999761_5556286056860505423_n&#8221; url=&#8221;https:\/\/www.arcticicefestival.com\/&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The ice climbing season is launched: in the Aosta Valley, the Cogne Ice&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":24,"featured_media":58745,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"[et_pb_section fb_built=\"1\" _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" _module_preset=\"default\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=\"1\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" background_size=\"initial\" background_position=\"top_left\" background_repeat=\"repeat\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" header_font=\"|on|||\" text_orientation=\"center\" module_alignment=\"center\" header_font_size_tablet=\"\" header_font_size_phone=\"16px\" header_font_size_last_edited=\"on|desktop\" header_2_font_size_tablet=\"\" header_2_font_size_phone=\"16px\" header_2_font_size_last_edited=\"on|phone\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n<h2><strong>La saison de cascade de glace est bien lanc\u00e9e : en vall\u00e9e d\u2019Aoste, le festival Cogne Ice Opening a tenu ses promesses, avec des rencontres, des alpinistes de renom, des ateliers complets pour tous niveaux, des fabricants qui pr\u00eatent piolets et chaussures, et de la glace d\u00e9j\u00e0 abondante. Et puis d\u00e8s le tunnel du Mont-Blanc franchi, ce sont les vacances, avec les piolets qui d\u00e9mangent !<\/strong><\/h2>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=\"1\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" custom_padding=\"||3px|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" text_font_size=\"16px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\n[dropcap size=big]C[\/dropcap]es rendez-vous sont rares, et pr\u00e9cieux. En d\u00e9but de saison, les rassemblements de ski ou de glace comme ici \u00e0 Cogne sont un pari - celui des conditions - et une promesse : celle de baigner pendant trois jours dans la culture de la cascade de glace, dans l\u2019un de ses plus beaux lieux alpins : \u00e0 Cogne dans la r\u00e9gion d\u2019Aoste.\n\nFaut-il pr\u00e9senter Cogne ? Prenez de beaux villages - Cogne, Lillaz - encore pr\u00e9serv\u00e9s, des traditions, du vin local et du fromage (la Fontine) en quantit\u00e9, la proximit\u00e9 du parc national du Grand Paradis, et bien s\u00fbr, des cascades de glace \u00e0 profusion, Cogne \u00e9tant situ\u00e9 \u00e0 plus de 1500 m\u00e8tres d\u2019altitude. Ajoutez l\u2019accueil chaleureux et en fran\u00e7ais des habitants, et vous obtenez l\u2019un des plus beaux spots europ\u00e9ens pour cette tranche d\u2019alpinisme hivernal qu\u2019est la cascade de glace.\n\nC\u2019est d\u2019ailleurs \u00e0 Lillaz, hameau au-dessus de Cogne qu\u2019habite \u00e0 l\u2019ann\u00e9e Matthias Scherer, qui organise le Cogne Ice Opening, trois jours de festival et d\u2019ateliers d\u00e9di\u00e9s \u00e0 la cascade de glace. Ce jeudi 15 d\u00e9cembre d\u00e9butait trois jours de rencontres, et de glace, puisque la vague de froid du d\u00e9but d\u00e9cembre a commenc\u00e9 \u00e0 faire son oeuvre.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">&nbsp;<\/span>\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=\"1_2,1_2\" use_custom_gutter=\"on\" gutter_width=\"2\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"1200px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"1_2\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/jocelynchavy_cogne-9466-2.jpg\" title_text=\"jocelynchavy_cogne-9466-2\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" width=\"100%\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nLe mont Blanc depuis Lillaz \u00a9JC\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=\"1_2\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/jocelynchavy_cogne-4671.jpg\" title_text=\"jocelynchavy_cogne-4671\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" width=\"100%\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nCogne Ice Opening \u00a9JC\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"1200px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/jocelynchavy_cogne-2.jpg\" title_text=\"jocelynchavy_cogne--2\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" width=\"100%\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nBienvenue \u00e0 Cogne ! \u00a9JC\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_margin=\"-1px|auto||auto||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=\"#000000\" quote_icon_background_color=\"#ffffff\" _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" body_font=\"Oswald|700||on|||||\" body_text_align=\"center\" body_text_color=\"#000000\" body_font_size=\"30\" use_background_color=\"off\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nMise \u00e0 jour de d\u00e9but de saison\n\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" custom_padding=\"0|0px||0px|false|false\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" text_font_size=\"16px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n<p class=\"p1\">Comme le raconte <strong>Benjamin Ribeyre<\/strong>, l\u2019un des guides qui encadraient les ateliers du festival : \u00ab&nbsp;<i>il y a une certaine h\u00e9t\u00e9rog\u00e9n\u00e9it\u00e9 dans les groupes et finalement c\u2019est une tr\u00e8s bonne chose. Pourquoi ? Parce que les personnes plus exp\u00e9riment\u00e9es donnent des conseils et des astuces aux d\u00e9butants, un \u00e9change qui offre autant de fa\u00e7ons de se rem\u00e9morer les bonnes pratiques<\/i> \u00bb. C\u2019est d\u2019ailleurs tout l\u2019int\u00e9r\u00eat des \u00e9v\u00e9nements de d\u00e9but de saison, explique Benjamin, \u00e9galement pr\u00e9sident de la compagnie des guides Oisans-\u00c9crins \u00e0 la Grave.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">\u00ab C<i>omme l\u2019\u00e9v\u00e9nement Premi\u00e8res Neiges samedi dernier au Villar d\u2019Ar\u00e8ne, d\u00e9di\u00e9 \u00e0 la d\u00e9couverte du ski de rando et \u00e0 la pr\u00e9vention Neige, les ateliers du Cogne Ice Opening sont l\u2019occasion de se remettre dans le bain en d\u00e9but de saison : technique, s\u00e9curit\u00e9, sur tous les terrains, pour tous - et m\u00eame pour les guides ! Au secteur Amphitheatro nous avons pu proposer aussi bien des lignes de glace pure que des voies en dry tooling <\/i>\u00bb.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">La veille, c'est s\u00e9ance aff\u00fbtage des outils avec Petzl. Le soir, apr\u00e8s une (ou deux) bi\u00e8res au <i>Bar Cascate<\/i>, c\u2019est l\u2019occasion d\u2019\u00e9changer sur les diff\u00e9rentes fa\u00e7ons d\u2019appr\u00e9hender la glace : le d\u00e9bat fait rage entre les tenants de l\u2019\u00e9thique \u00ab nord-am\u00e9ricaine \u00bb, selon laquelle aucune cord\u00e9e ne peut s\u2019engager derri\u00e8re une cord\u00e9e qui a d\u00e9j\u00e0 commenc\u00e9 une cascade, et les pratiquants plus \u2026laxistes (ou fran\u00e7ais), pour qui, malgr\u00e9 les risques \u00e9vidents de chutes de gla\u00e7ons, cela reste possible. Heureusement, dans les classiques comme <em>Lau Bij <\/em><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">(<\/span>deux longueurs), les quelques cord\u00e9es pr\u00e9tendantes attendent leur tour.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">&nbsp;<\/span><\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=\"1_2,1_2\" use_custom_gutter=\"on\" gutter_width=\"2\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"1200px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"1_2\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/jocelynchavy_cogne-9077.jpg\" title_text=\"jocelynchavy_cogne-9077\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" width=\"100%\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nSur le site de Molines. \u00a9JC\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=\"1_2\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/jocelynchavy_cogne-9123.jpg\" title_text=\"jocelynchavy_cogne-9123\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" width=\"100%\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nLes stagiaires profitent du soleil matinal \u00e0 Molines. \u00a9JC\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"1200px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/jocelynchavy_cogne-0154.jpg\" title_text=\"jocelynchavy_cogne-0154\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" width=\"100%\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nLe groupe sur le site de Molines, au frais ! \u00a9JC\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row disabled_on=\"off|on|on\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" _module_preset=\"default\" module_alignment=\"center\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" _module_preset=\"default\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/10.png\" title_text=\"10\" url=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/abonnement\" align=\"center\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" _module_preset=\"default\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row disabled_on=\"on|off|off\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" _module_preset=\"default\" background_size=\"initial\" background_position=\"top_left\" background_repeat=\"repeat\" max_width=\"1200px\" global_module=\"55929\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" _module_preset=\"default\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/Article-offert-V2.png\" title_text=\"Article offert V2\" url=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/abonnement\/\" url_new_window=\"on\" _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" _module_preset=\"default\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=\"1\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" custom_margin_tablet=\"\" custom_margin_phone=\"\" custom_margin_last_edited=\"on|desktop\" custom_padding=\"4px||||false|false\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" custom_margin=\"50px|||\" custom_padding=\"0|0px|22.796875px|0px|false|false\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" text_font_size=\"16px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n<h2><strong>Pas de fronti\u00e8res pour Cogne<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p class=\"p1\">Pendant trois jours, les participants du <strong>Cogne Ice Opening<\/strong> ont pu tester les derni\u00e8res chaussures Scarpa, les piolets et crampons que mettaient \u00e0 disposition Petzl, Camp et Grivel, voire tester les sacs Samaya, avant de prendre la direction des ateliers : \u00e0 Molines, un pan de cascades a \u00e9t\u00e9 cr\u00e9\u00e9 par arrosage, et se r\u00e9v\u00e8le un superbe spot d'une vingtaine de m\u00e8tres de hauteur pour cent de large, de quoi mettre un paquet de moulinettes ! Autre secteur id\u00e9al : l'Amphit\u00e9\u00e2tre de Lillaz, juste au-dessus de la cascade \u00e9ponyme, qui r\u00e9serve piliers de glace et lignes de dry tooling, le tout encadr\u00e9 par les guides de Cogne et de Vall\u00e9e d'Aoste, la guide <strong>Heike Schmitt<\/strong>, ainsi que deux guides fran\u00e7ais, B. Ribeyre et Aur\u00e9lien Vaissi\u00e8re.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Pendant trois jours, les participants du Cogne Ice Opening ont ainsi baign\u00e9 dans la culture de la glace, et de l\u2019alpinisme, y compris de haute vol\u00e9e, avec la soir\u00e9e du samedi dans le cin\u00e9ma de Cogne. Trois r\u00e9alisations y \u00e9taient pr\u00e9sent\u00e9es. La premi\u00e8re \u00e0 l\u2019honneur fut celle de Matteo Della Bordella et David Bacci qui ont racont\u00e9 leur premi\u00e8re ascension sur le Cerro Torre (avec M. De Zaiacomo). <em>Brothers In Arms<\/em> a \u00e9t\u00e9 la conclusion d\u2019une longue qu\u00eate, d\u00e9marr\u00e9e par les grimpeurs britanniques, et achev\u00e9e par les italiens - la cord\u00e9e des Ragni di Lecco de Matteo Della Bordella, une tr\u00e8s grande r\u00e9alisation assombrie par la mort de <a href=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/adieu-korra-pesce\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Korra Pesce<\/a>, tu\u00e9 par des blocs de glace alors qu\u2019il venait d\u2019ouvrir une autre voie parall\u00e8le \u00e0 celle des italiens.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">&nbsp;<\/span><em><span class=\"Apple-converted-space\"><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=\"1_2,1_2\" use_custom_gutter=\"on\" gutter_width=\"2\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" width=\"100%\" max_width=\"1200px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"1_2\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/jocelynchavy_cogne-9435.jpg\" title_text=\"jocelynchavy_cogne-9435\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" force_fullwidth=\"on\" _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nBenjamin Ribeyre \u00a9JC\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=\"1_2\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/jocelynchavy_cogne-0175.jpg\" title_text=\"jocelynchavy_cogne-0175\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" width=\"100%\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nMatteo Giglio \u00e0 Molines \u00a9Jocelyn Chavy\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=\"2_3,1_3\" use_custom_gutter=\"on\" gutter_width=\"2\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" width=\"100%\" max_width=\"1200px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"2_3\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/jocelynchavy_cogne-9024.jpg\" title_text=\"jocelynchavy_cogne-9024\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" force_fullwidth=\"on\" _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nLes guides de Cogne expliquent la technique \u00a9JC\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=\"1_3\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/jocelynchavy_cogne-4657.jpg\" title_text=\"jocelynchavy_cogne-4657\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" width=\"100%\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nMatteo Della Bordella (\u00e0 g.) et David Bacci (\u00e0 dr.) avec Matthias Scherer.\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=\"1_2,1_2\" use_custom_gutter=\"on\" gutter_width=\"2\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" width=\"100%\" max_width=\"1200px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"1_2\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/jocelynchavy_cogne_tanja-9274.jpg\" title_text=\"jocelynchavy_cogne_tanja-9274\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" force_fullwidth=\"on\" _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nTanja Schmitt dans <em>Lau Bij<\/em> \u00a9JC\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=\"1_2\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/jocelynchavy_cogne-9741.jpg\" title_text=\"jocelynchavy_cogne-9741\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" width=\"100%\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nSous le beau soleil de Valeille \u00a9JC\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=\"1_2,1_2\" use_custom_gutter=\"on\" gutter_width=\"2\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" width=\"100%\" max_width=\"1200px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"1_2\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/jocelynchavy_cogne-4623.jpg\" title_text=\"jocelynchavy_cogne-4623\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" force_fullwidth=\"on\" _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" text_font_size=\"16px\" custom_padding=\"50px|||||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"Apple-converted-space\"><\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">La soir\u00e9e s'est poursuivie avec une s\u00e9ance cin\u00e9-glace avec <a href=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/enchainement-cascade-glace-5-integrales-leo-billon-benjamin-ribeyre\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">l\u2019Ultra Glace, l\u2019int\u00e9grale de la Grave ou les 5 grandes cascades encha\u00een\u00e9es par L\u00e9o Billon et Benjamin Ribeyre<\/a> en 2021, 2500 m\u00e8tres de glace en une journ\u00e9e ! La soir\u00e9e se concluait par le beau r\u00e9cit de J\u00e9r\u00f4me Sullivan et Christophe Ogier \u00e0 propos de leur aventure \u00e9pique, la premi\u00e8re du Pumari Chish East dans le Karakoram (avec V. Sauc\u00e8de). Des images d\u2019alpinisme tr\u00e8s engag\u00e9 plein la t\u00eate, de quoi \u00eatre inspir\u00e9 avant un lever tr\u00e8s matinal et tr\u00e8s frais (moins seize degr\u00e9s !) pour les plus motiv\u00e9s, partis grimper les classiques telles que <em>Patri. <\/em><\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=\"1_2\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/jocelynchavy_cogne-9603.jpg\" title_text=\"jocelynchavy_cogne-9603\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" width=\"100%\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nMatthias Scherer dans son \u00e9l\u00e9ment \u00e0 Cogne&nbsp;\u00a9JC\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" custom_margin=\"50px|||\" custom_padding=\"0|0px|22.796875px|0px|false|false\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" text_font_size=\"16px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n<h2><strong>Glace italienne<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p class=\"p1\">Avec Matthias Scherer et Tanja Schmitt, nous sommes partis \u00e0 la recherche d\u2019une belle ligne dans le vallon de Valeille : mais celle convoit\u00e9e, <em>Coyote<\/em>, n\u2019\u00e9tait pas du tout en conditions : c\u2019est le jeu en glace, celui de l\u2019incertitude, un jeu qui permet d\u2019\u00eatre seul et de savourer quand \u00e7a marche. Sur le chemin du retour, Matthias eut une id\u00e9e, en passant devant la haute \u00e9p\u00e9e de <em>Hard Ice<\/em> : \u00ab <i>la premi\u00e8re longueur est belle, avec d\u2019\u00e9normes m\u00e9duses, comme en Norv\u00e8ge !<\/i>&nbsp;\u00bb La glace fut belle, abordable quoique d\u00e9licate et technique avec ces grosses formations, typiques des gros d\u00e9bits de la Norv\u00e8ge o\u00f9 Matthias et Tanja prennent leurs quartiers chaque hiver. Rendez-vous donc en Scandinavie en f\u00e9vrier prochain pour l\u2019<a href=\"https:\/\/www.arcticicefestival.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Arctic Ice Festival,<\/a> organis\u00e9 par le couple de passionn\u00e9s avec la guide Heike Schmitt, pour les passionn\u00e9s\u2026 de glace.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">&nbsp;<\/span><\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" custom_margin=\"50px|||\" custom_padding=\"0|0px|22.796875px|0px|false|false\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" text_font_size=\"16px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_margin=\"||150px|||\"]\n<h2><strong>Glace italienne<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p class=\"p1\">Avec Matthias Scherer et Tanja Schmitt, nous sommes partis \u00e0 la recherche d\u2019une belle ligne dans le vallon de Valeille : mais celle convoit\u00e9e, <em>Coyote<\/em>, n\u2019\u00e9tait pas du tout en conditions : c\u2019est le jeu en glace, celui de l\u2019incertitude, un jeu qui permet d\u2019\u00eatre seul et de savourer quand \u00e7a marche. Sur le chemin du retour, Matthias eut une id\u00e9e, en passant devant la haute \u00e9p\u00e9e de <em>Hard Ice<\/em> : \u00ab <i>la premi\u00e8re longueur est belle, avec d\u2019\u00e9normes m\u00e9duses, comme en Norv\u00e8ge !<\/i>&nbsp;\u00bb La glace fut belle, abordable quoique d\u00e9licate et technique avec ces grosses formations, typiques des gros d\u00e9bits de la Norv\u00e8ge o\u00f9 Matthias et Tanja prennent leurs quartiers chaque hiver. Rendez-vous donc en Scandinavie en f\u00e9vrier prochain pour l\u2019<a href=\"https:\/\/www.arcticicefestival.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Arctic Ice Festival,<\/a> organis\u00e9 par le couple de passionn\u00e9s avec la guide Heike Schmitt, pour les passionn\u00e9s\u2026 de glace.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">&nbsp;<\/span><\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/294930485_1988693137999761_5556286056860505423_n.jpg\" _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" _module_preset=\"default\" title_text=\"294930485_1988693137999761_5556286056860505423_n\" hover_enabled=\"0\" sticky_enabled=\"0\" url=\"https:\/\/www.arcticicefestival.com\/\"][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[10,19],"tags":[261,258,288,455,260],"class_list":["post-58744","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-alps","category-climbing","tag-aoste","tag-cogne","tag-ice-climbing","tag-matthias-scherer","tag-schmitt"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/58744","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/24"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=58744"}],"version-history":[{"count":14,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/58744\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":58766,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/58744\/revisions\/58766"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/58745"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=58744"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=58744"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=58744"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}