[et_pb_section fb_built=”1″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_margin=”||||false|false” custom_padding=”||16px|||” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.19.0″ header_font=”|on|||” text_orientation=”center” module_alignment=”center” header_font_size_tablet=”” header_font_size_phone=”16px” header_font_size_last_edited=”on|desktop” header_2_font_size_tablet=”” header_2_font_size_phone=”16px” header_2_font_size_last_edited=”on|phone” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=”1″ _builder_version=”4.19.0″ custom_margin=”||||false|false” custom_padding=”48px||||false|false” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”800px” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.19.0″ text_font_size=”16px” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n
A<\/span>fter DNA<\/a><\/em> (5.15d) on April 24, 2022 in the Verdon and Supreme Jumbo Love<\/a><\/em> (5.15c), America’s most difficult climb, on November 1, S\u00e9bastien Bouin successfully managed Bibliographie<\/em>, a 35-metre route in the Biographie<\/em> sector of C\u00e9\u00fcse.<\/p>\n “Bibliograpghie was a big goal for this year. Since Alex did the first ascent of this one, I was really psyched to try something really hard from someone else, here in France.”<\/em><\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”800px” custom_margin=”||||false|false” custom_padding=”0|0px||0px|false|false” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=”#000000″ quote_icon_background_color=”#ffffff” _builder_version=”4.16″ body_font=”Oswald|700||on|||||” body_text_align=”center” body_text_color=”#000000″ body_font_size=”30″ use_background_color=”off” custom_margin=”||||false|false” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n a 9b+ in my \u2018local\u2019 area, already with 3 ascents by top climbers… it was obvious that I had to try it<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_testimonial][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.19.0″ text_font_size=”16px” hover_enabled=”0″ global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]<\/p>\n In 2020, the German climber was the first to successfully climb this route<\/a> in the Biographie<\/em> sector, proposing a 5.15d rating at the time. But the following year, the Italian Stefano Ghisolfi<\/a> and the American Sean Bailey, after repeating the climb, lowered the grade to 5.15c.<\/p>\n “I am usually alone when trying my projects in France and not many people try them, but Biblio was something different. You know, a 9b+ in my \u2018local\u2019 area, already with 3 ascents by top climbers… it was obvious that I had to try it.”<\/em><\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=”1_2,1_2″ _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”800px” custom_margin=”||||false|false” custom_padding=”0|0px||0px|false|false” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”1_2″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/Seb_Bouin_Bibliographie_Top_Crux_Credit_Clarisse_Bompard-scaled.jpg” title_text=”Seb_Bouin_Bibliographie_Top_Crux_Credit_Clarisse_Bompard” show_in_lightbox=”on” show_bottom_space=”off” align=”center” _builder_version=”4.19.0″ width=”100%” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.19.0″ text_font=”Merriweather|900|||||||” text_font_size=”16″ custom_margin=”||||false|false” border_style=”solid” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n Seb Bouin in the Bibliographie<\/em> route at C\u00e9\u00fcse. Photo by Clarisse Bompard<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=”1_2″ _builder_version=”4.19.0″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=”#000000″ quote_icon_background_color=”#ffffff” _builder_version=”4.16″ body_font=”Oswald|700||on|||||” body_text_align=”center” body_text_color=”#000000″ body_font_size=”30″ use_background_color=”off” custom_margin=”||||false|false” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n I think I underestimated this last part of the route. It doesn’t look or feel that hard when you do this single section in isolation. Yet, when you are coming from the ground, it was way different<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.19.0″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.19.0″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.19.0″ text_font_size=”16px” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n With rain almost every day, the 30-year-old Drac\u00e9nois had to wait for lulls before each of his attempts, including 11 falls below the summit after the main crux.<\/p>\n “I think I underestimated this last part of the route. It doesn’t look or feel that hard when you do this single section in isolation. Yet, when you are coming from the ground, it was way different. I remember Sean Bailey actually fell 13 times up there, so I am happy that he still holds the record”<\/em><\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" Last saturday, Seb Bouin made the ascent of Bibliographie (5.15c) at C\u00e9\u00fcse,…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":9571,"featured_media":59475,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[19,787,11],"tags":[638,39,471],"class_list":["post-59474","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climbing","category-video","category-world","tag-ceuse","tag-climbing","tag-seb-bouin"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/59474","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/9571"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=59474"}],"version-history":[{"count":11,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/59474\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":59492,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/59474\/revisions\/59492"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/59475"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=59474"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=59474"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=59474"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}