{"id":59569,"date":"2023-07-05T07:30:00","date_gmt":"2023-07-05T05:30:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/le-premier-hollandais-au-sommet-du-pumori-loin-de-la-foule-de-leverest\/"},"modified":"2023-07-06T16:38:56","modified_gmt":"2023-07-06T14:38:56","slug":"christian-de-jong-first-dutchman-on-top-of-nuptse","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/christian-de-jong-first-dutchman-on-top-of-nuptse\/","title":{"rendered":"Nuptse by fair means, away from Everest crowds"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>[et_pb_section fb_built=&#8221;1&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_margin=&#8221;||||false|false&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;4px||1px|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; background_size=&#8221;initial&#8221; background_position=&#8221;top_left&#8221; background_repeat=&#8221;repeat&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; header_font=&#8221;|on|||&#8221; text_orientation=&#8221;center&#8221; module_alignment=&#8221;center&#8221; hover_enabled=&#8221;0&#8243; header_font_size_tablet=&#8221;&#8221; header_font_size_phone=&#8221;16px&#8221; header_font_size_last_edited=&#8221;on|desktop&#8221; header_2_font_size_tablet=&#8221;&#8221; header_2_font_size_phone=&#8221;16px&#8221; header_2_font_size_last_edited=&#8221;on|phone&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; sticky_enabled=&#8221;0&#8243;]<\/p>\n<h2><strong>On 21 May, Dutch mountaineer Christian De Jong made history in his country by becoming the first person to climb Nuptse. He also climbed Pumori one week before. Christian De Jong talks to us about his vision of Himalayan ascents in alpine style, his doubts about the mentality of some Everest aspirants, and his hopes for the future of the Sherpas.<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=&#8221;1&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;1px|||||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; header_3_font_size_phone=&#8221;18px&#8221; header_3_font_size_last_edited=&#8221;on|phone&#8221;][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; max_width=&#8221;800px&#8221; use_custom_width=&#8221;on&#8221; custom_width_px=&#8221;800px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;16px&#8221; hover_enabled=&#8221;0&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; sticky_enabled=&#8221;0&#8243;]<\/p>\n<p><span class=\"cb-dropcap-big\">D<\/span>utch mountaineer Christian De Jong, contacted by videoconference, spoke at length to <em>Alpine Mag<\/em> about his double ascent in alpine style of Pumori on 13 May 2023 , and Nuptse (the first in his country) on 21 May 2023. As well as his sporting and historic achievements, the mountaineer promotes an alpine style that is dear to him, and a practice that respects people and the environment. Interview.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; max_width=&#8221;1200px&#8221; use_custom_width=&#8221;on&#8221; custom_width_px=&#8221;800px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/Christian-De-Jong-Pumori2-scaled.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;Christian De Jong Pumori2&#8243; show_in_lightbox=&#8221;on&#8221; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Merriweather|900|||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;16&#8243; custom_margin=&#8221;||||false|false&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221; saved_tabs=&#8221;all&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Christian De Jong climbing Pumori, May 13, 2023. \u00a9 Prakash Sherpa<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; max_width=&#8221;800px&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;||||false|false&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0|0px||0px|false|false&#8221; use_custom_width=&#8221;on&#8221; custom_width_px=&#8221;800&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;16px&#8221; header_3_line_height=&#8221;1.2em&#8221; header_3_font_size_tablet=&#8221;&#8221; header_3_font_size_phone=&#8221;18px&#8221; header_3_font_size_last_edited=&#8221;on|phone&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<h3><strong>Alpine Mag: How did the project to climb Pumori and Nuptse come about?<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p><strong>Christian De Jong:<\/strong> Last year we climbed the Kyajo Ri (6 189 m) and the Cholatse (6\u202f440 m). I was really thinking about what I would want to climb because there&#8217;s a lot of options and I like to climb remote peaks. But then my friend Prakash really wanted to climb Nuptse because he had been on Nuptse before, up to 7 400 or 7 500. And he had some kind of unfinished business. And I thought, I&#8217;m not sure if an is going to be the right climb for me because it&#8217;s high up in the 7000. And I was not sure if I would be able to do so because it&#8217;s 7860, which is now almost 8000. But then I decided to just go for it and see if I would be able to, because both technicality and altitude would be a real challenge.<\/p>\n<p>And then later on I read some more about Pumori. And the more I read, the more I was also intrigued by that mountain as well. It&#8217;s it&#8217;s a mountain with quite high objective danger, which kind of made me doubt whether I wanted to do it. But if you look at the shape of the mountain it looks so amazing. So we decided to add like two climbs into the whole project for acclimatization purposes. So we ended off in Nepal and I climbed Island Peak solo.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_margin=&#8221;-1px|auto||auto||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=&#8221;#000000&#8243; quote_icon_background_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; body_font=&#8221;Oswald|700||on|||||&#8221; body_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; body_text_color=&#8221;#000000&#8243; body_font_size=&#8221;30&#8243; use_background_color=&#8221;off&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;||||false|false&#8221; saved_tabs=&#8221;all&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>this crazy world called Everest base camp<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; max_width=&#8221;800px&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;||||false|false&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0|0px||0px|false|false&#8221; use_custom_width=&#8221;on&#8221; custom_width_px=&#8221;800&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;16px&#8221; header_3_line_height=&#8221;1.2em&#8221; header_3_font_size_tablet=&#8221;&#8221; header_3_font_size_phone=&#8221;18px&#8221; header_3_font_size_last_edited=&#8221;on|phone&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<h3><strong>How did it feel to be almost alone on the summit, whereas hundreds of Everest aspirants were crowding the mountain?<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p>It&#8217;s crazy. I&#8217;ve not climbed many mountains in Nepal, but I have climbed six so far. And on all mountains. I&#8217;ve been alone like only with my climbing team. And it&#8217;s really amazing because Nepal is such a crowded place. But they all focus on a few mountains. That&#8217;s also why I&#8217;m not so interested in Amadablam or Everest, because everybody goes there. I go to the mountains to be in places where nobody is. And so it felt a little bit strange to go for Nuptse because you are in this crazy world called Everest base camp. And yeah, I&#8217;m also not sure if I ever want to go back to that place again because I love Nuptse. But the location and the place where you do your expedition from is a strange place. I&#8217;ve never seen such a thing in the mountains.<\/p>\n<p>Many of the people, I would say, are not climbers. They want to go to Everest and they want to do something big in their lives. I&#8217;m not sure if I have a very strong opinion. It&#8217;s their choice. I don&#8217;t want to judge, but it&#8217;s different. It&#8217;s not climbing. It&#8217;s a little bit more mountain tourism. People who want to do the physical challenge but not caring about the mountains so much. What I love about climbers, they love mountains and they love the environment and they also care for the environment. But at the same time, everyone has their right for their own adventure. But I think from a government perspective, they should somehow limit the impact of all these climbers in the season.<\/p>\n<p>I&#8217;m afraid that Everest ends up to be a mountain only for rich people and not for climbers anymore, because more and more climbers kind of avoid that place. And I do understand, but still, Nepal has a lot of beautiful places where you can actually be the only one at the summit. So I hope that&#8217;s also because Nepal needs the income. It&#8217;s still a very poor country and Everest is the moneymaker. But Everest is not the solution because if it&#8217;s going this way, if we keep on going this direction, then at some point you don&#8217;t want to be there anymore. Anyway.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; max_width=&#8221;1200px&#8221; use_custom_width=&#8221;on&#8221; custom_width_px=&#8221;800px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/Christian-De-Jong-Nuptse5-scaled.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;Christian De Jong Nuptse5&#8243; show_in_lightbox=&#8221;on&#8221; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Merriweather|900|||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;16&#8243; custom_margin=&#8221;||||false|false&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221; saved_tabs=&#8221;all&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Prakash Sherpa on the Nuptse on May 21, 2023. \u00a9 Christian De Jong<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; max_width=&#8221;800px&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;||||false|false&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0|0px||0px|false|false&#8221; use_custom_width=&#8221;on&#8221; custom_width_px=&#8221;800&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;16px&#8221; header_3_line_height=&#8221;1.2em&#8221; header_3_font_size_tablet=&#8221;&#8221; header_3_font_size_phone=&#8221;18px&#8221; header_3_font_size_last_edited=&#8221;on|phone&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<h3><strong>What&#8217;s your relationship with Prakash Sherpa?<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p>Prakash is a mountain guide. I do not climb with him as a mountain guide. We just climb together. I don&#8217;t do not pay him or whatsoever. We just climb as friends. I met him last year during our ascent of the 6000 meter peaks. I had a friend from the Netherlands. We climbed together and we were looking for some support in the Himalayas from someone who actually understood what it is to climb alpine style in the Himalayas. And Prakash is a mountain guide. He has his own guiding agency and he really wants to promote alpine style climbing in Nepal. But we said we don&#8217;t want guiding. We just want the support in the base camp and just all the logistics, the permits, the garbage disposal permits, all these kinds of things, you need someone. So last we just climbed together.<\/p>\n<p>And I think for this year I also told him I had this plan and I wanted to go back to Nepal 7000 meters. But I&#8217;m not looking for a guide. I&#8217;m just looking for a climbing partner. And I was also looking for a climbing partner in the Netherlands, but I could not really find someone else who would be able to actually do what I wanted to do in terms of technicality or endurance strength. And then he said : <em>\u201cWell, I just want to go climbing with you and you don&#8217;t have to pay me. We just make a nice project out of it and let&#8217;s see\u201d<\/em>. So it&#8217;s kind of misunderstood, when I talk about our kind of relationship here as well, people think that he&#8217;s my Sherpa. I don&#8217;t believe he is my Sherpa because I don&#8217;t own him. I hate that when people say <em>\u201che\u2019s my Sherpa\u201d<\/em>. No, of course there&#8217;s someone who supports you, but it sounds like this Western kind of ownership. And I don&#8217;t like it.<\/p>\n<p>Prakash and I, we just became very good friends. And actually our climbing level is kind of similar. But only Prakash is stronger in altitude because he is Nepali, and is so used to altitude. So I think for a Westerner, I am pretty strong in altitude, but he is still much stronger. And so for me, he is the perfect climbing partner. But I said to him I don&#8217;t want to have any guiding. We make the decisions together. We both lead the climb. I&#8217;m not like just following him, we do everything together. And that&#8217;s basically how we did it. Even though he is stronger. Like it felt totally equal.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; max_width=&#8221;1200px&#8221; use_custom_width=&#8221;on&#8221; custom_width_px=&#8221;800px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/Christian-De-Jong-Nuptse3-scaled.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;Christian De Jong Nuptse3&#8243; show_in_lightbox=&#8221;on&#8221; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Merriweather|900|||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;16&#8243; custom_margin=&#8221;||||false|false&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221; saved_tabs=&#8221;all&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Christian De Jong at the Nuptse summit on May 21, 2023. \u00a9 Prakash Sherpa<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_margin=&#8221;-1px|auto||auto||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=&#8221;#000000&#8243; quote_icon_background_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; body_font=&#8221;Oswald|700||on|||||&#8221; body_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; body_text_color=&#8221;#000000&#8243; body_font_size=&#8221;30&#8243; use_background_color=&#8221;off&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;||||false|false&#8221; saved_tabs=&#8221;all&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center\">it&#8217;s kind of modern slavery<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; max_width=&#8221;800px&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;||||false|false&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0|0px||0px|false|false&#8221; use_custom_width=&#8221;on&#8221; custom_width_px=&#8221;800&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;16px&#8221; header_3_line_height=&#8221;1.2em&#8221; header_3_font_size_tablet=&#8221;&#8221; header_3_font_size_phone=&#8221;18px&#8221; header_3_font_size_last_edited=&#8221;on|phone&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<h3><strong>How are Sherpas considered by Western mountaineers?<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p>There is so much money and so much ego in Everest base camp from all these Western climbers. People say <em>\u201cthat&#8217;s my Sherpa\u201d<\/em>. And you see people with the smallest daypack or not even a backpack going through the icefall, going from camp 1 to camp 2 or even higher up the mountain with some Sherpas behind with a huge backpack struggling to keep up. I don&#8217;t like the word, but it&#8217;s kind of modern slavery. It&#8217;s like <em>\u201cI paid \u20ac50,000 and that&#8217;s why I have the right that someone else does this work for me\u201d<\/em>. It&#8217;s often the lack of fitness or lack of understanding the mountain. Then they need to be compensated by someone who is actually very strong. And then, at the end of the expedition, they all say <em>\u201cI could not do it without my guide or without my sherpa\u201d<\/em>. Yeah, I am sure that you could not. But the way you actually behaved during the expedition, I&#8217;m not sure if that&#8217;s the right way to look at the Sherpa people.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; max_width=&#8221;800px&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;||||false|false&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0|0px||0px|false|false&#8221; use_custom_width=&#8221;on&#8221; custom_width_px=&#8221;800&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;16px&#8221; header_3_line_height=&#8221;1.2em&#8221; header_3_font_size_tablet=&#8221;&#8221; header_3_font_size_phone=&#8221;18px&#8221; header_3_font_size_last_edited=&#8221;on|phone&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<h3><strong>Do you think the mentality concerning Sherpas is changing?<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p>I think it goes two ways. On one hand, I think there are many more Nepali based guiding agencies with Nepali based guides. And I think that puts them in a higher ranking. So people are starting to look up to them more and more. And I think that&#8217;s the upside. That&#8217;s a very positive development, because back in the days it was always Western guides and then Sherpa people were only there to support. And now Sherpa people are also leading.<\/p>\n<p>Nirmal Purja is one of these people who actually showed that Nepali also can be in the forefront. I think he is quite a specific type of person, but still, I think he put them on the map in some way. And what I really like also with a person like Prakash, he is actually a Dynafit athlete, so he&#8217;s an athlete for a European brand in the Himalayas, which is kind of funny, but it also shows that he&#8217;s not there just for the support. He is actually there for his own success as well. And that&#8217;s why he wanted to go climbing with me on these mountains. Because he did not summit Pumori or Nuptse so far and he just wanted to show that he can do these ascents.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; max_width=&#8221;1200px&#8221; use_custom_width=&#8221;on&#8221; custom_width_px=&#8221;800px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/Christian-De-Jong-Khumbu1.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;Christian De Jong Khumbu1&#8243; show_in_lightbox=&#8221;on&#8221; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Merriweather|900|||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;16&#8243; custom_margin=&#8221;||||false|false&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221; saved_tabs=&#8221;all&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Prakash Sherpa and Christian De Jong on the Khumbu glacier. \u00a9 Prakash Sherpa<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_margin=&#8221;-1px|auto||auto||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=&#8221;#000000&#8243; quote_icon_background_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; body_font=&#8221;Oswald|700||on|||||&#8221; body_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; body_text_color=&#8221;#000000&#8243; body_font_size=&#8221;30&#8243; use_background_color=&#8221;off&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;||||false|false&#8221; saved_tabs=&#8221;all&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center\">a project in the Alps<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; max_width=&#8221;800px&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;||||false|false&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0|0px||0px|false|false&#8221; use_custom_width=&#8221;on&#8221; custom_width_px=&#8221;800&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;16px&#8221; header_3_line_height=&#8221;1.2em&#8221; header_3_font_size_tablet=&#8221;&#8221; header_3_font_size_phone=&#8221;18px&#8221; header_3_font_size_last_edited=&#8221;on|phone&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<h3><strong>What are your future projects?<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p>I still want to go for 8000 meters because I had the permit for Lhotse as well this year. But after all these climbs and after Nuptse basically the time frame would be very short and the weather window was not ideal. So I would only have two rest days in camp 2. It&#8217;s almost 6 500 meters and I just knew I would never recover enough to ascend Lhotse which is still 8 500 meters, so it&#8217;s so high in the 8000 and I knew I would be able I think to climb up to 8000, maybe 8 100. I felt like I could do that, but I was pretty sure I would not be able to summit. And so still the 8000 project is there to be accomplished.<\/p>\n<p>South face of Shishapangma (8 027 m) looks so amazing and there&#8217;s only a few climbers and all the routes are pretty hard and some are super hard. It&#8217;s by definition alpine style because there is no one there. And you have to do everything by yourself. So Shishapangma south face also because Shishapangma is relatively low in the 8000. That would be the perfect objective.<\/p>\n<p>For next year I want to go for a project in the Alps. I have decided to climb all the 4000 meter peaks in the Alps in Switzerland, because I think all will be just too long, but only Switzerland will be 48. So it&#8217;s the majority of the 4000 meter peaks. Maybe I put into it the extra challenge of avoiding any normal route.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>On 21 May, Dutch mountaineer Christian De Jong made history in his country by&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":9571,"featured_media":59570,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"[et_pb_section fb_built=\"1\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding=\"4px||1px|||\"][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" background_size=\"initial\" background_position=\"top_left\" background_repeat=\"repeat\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" header_font=\"|on|||\" text_orientation=\"center\" module_alignment=\"center\" header_font_size_tablet=\"\" header_font_size_phone=\"16px\" header_font_size_last_edited=\"on|desktop\" header_2_font_size_tablet=\"\" header_2_font_size_phone=\"16px\" header_2_font_size_last_edited=\"on|phone\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n<h2><strong>Le 13 mai dernier, l'alpiniste hollandais Christian De Jong est entr\u00e9 dans l\u2019histoire de son pays en \u00e9tant le premier \u00e0 gravir le Pumori. Il s\u2019est \u00e9galement offert le Nuptse une semaine plus tard. Christian De jong nous a confi\u00e9 sa vision des ascensions himalayennes en style alpin, ses doutes sur la mentalit\u00e9 de certains pr\u00e9tendants \u00e0 l\u2019Everest, et ses espoirs sur le futur des sherpas.<\/strong><\/h2>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=\"1\" _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" header_3_font_size_phone=\"18px\" header_3_font_size_last_edited=\"on|phone\" custom_padding=\"1px|||||\"][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" text_font_size=\"16px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\n[dropcap size=big]L[\/dropcap]\u2019alpiniste hollandais Christian De Jong, joint par visioconf\u00e9rence, est revenu longuement pour <em>Alpine Mag<\/em> sur sa double ascension en style alpin du Pumori le 13 mai 2023 (le premier de son pays), et du Nuptse le 21 mai 2023. Au-del\u00e0 de la performance sportive et historique, l\u2019alpiniste souhaite mettre en avant un style alpin qui lui est cher, et une pratique respectueuse des hommes et de l\u2019environnement. Interview.\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"1200px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/Christian-De-Jong-Pumori2-scaled.jpg\" title_text=\"Christian De Jong Pumori2\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" width=\"100%\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nChristian De Jong dans l'ascension du Pumori, le 13 mai 2023. \u00a9 Prakash Sherpa\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" custom_padding=\"0|0px||0px|false|false\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" text_font_size=\"16px\" header_3_line_height=\"1.2em\" header_3_font_size_tablet=\"\" header_3_font_size_phone=\"18px\" header_3_font_size_last_edited=\"on|phone\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n<h3><strong><em>Alpine Mag<\/em> : Comment est n\u00e9 ce projet de gravir <\/strong><strong>le Pumori et <\/strong><strong>le Nuptse ?<\/strong><\/h3>\n<strong>Christian De Jong :<\/strong> L'ann\u00e9e derni\u00e8re, nous avons gravi le Kyajo Ri (6 189 m) et le Cholatse (6\u202f440 m). J'ai vraiment r\u00e9fl\u00e9chi \u00e0 ce que je voulais gravir parce qu'il y avait beaucoup d'options et j'aime gravir des sommets \u00e9loign\u00e9s. Mais mon ami Prakash, avec qui je grimpe, voulait vraiment gravir le Nuptse (7 861 m) parce qu'il y \u00e9tait d\u00e9j\u00e0 all\u00e9, jusqu'\u00e0 7 400 m ou 7500m. Il avait une sorte d'affaire \u00e0 r\u00e9gler. Je me suis dit que je n'\u00e9tais pas s\u00fbr que cette ascension me conviendrait parce qu'elle se situe dans les 7000 m\u00e8tres. Et je n'\u00e9tais pas s\u00fbr de pouvoir le faire parce que c'est 7 860 m, ce qui est presque 8000 m. Mais j'ai d\u00e9cid\u00e9 de me lancer et de voir si j'en serais capable parce que la technicit\u00e9 et l'altitude seraient un vrai d\u00e9fi.\n\nEt puis, plus tard, j'ai lu un peu plus sur Pumori (7\u202f161 m). Et plus je lisais, plus cette montagne m'intriguait. C'est une montagne qui pr\u00e9sente un danger objectif assez \u00e9lev\u00e9, ce qui m'a fait douter de mon envie de la gravir. Mais si vous regardez la forme de la montagne, c'est tout simplement incroyable. Nous avons donc d\u00e9cid\u00e9 d'ajouter deux ascensions \u00e0 l'ensemble du projet \u00e0 des fins d'acclimatation. Nous sommes donc partis au N\u00e9pal et j'ai escalad\u00e9 l\u2019Island Peak en solo.\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_margin=\"-1px|auto||auto||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=\"#000000\" quote_icon_background_color=\"#ffffff\" _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" body_font=\"Oswald|700||on|||||\" body_text_align=\"center\" body_text_color=\"#000000\" body_font_size=\"30\" use_background_color=\"off\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nce monde fou qu'est le camp de base de l'Everest\n\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" custom_padding=\"0|0px||0px|false|false\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" text_font_size=\"16px\" header_3_line_height=\"1.2em\" header_3_font_size_tablet=\"\" header_3_font_size_phone=\"18px\" header_3_font_size_last_edited=\"on|phone\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n<h3><strong>Qu\u2019avez-vous ressenti en \u00e9tant presque seul au sommet, alors que des centaines de pr\u00e9tendants \u00e0 l\u2019Everest s'agglutinent sur cette montagne ?<\/strong><\/h3>\nC\u2019est fou. Je n'ai pas gravi beaucoup de montagnes au N\u00e9pal, mais j'en ai gravi six jusqu'\u00e0 pr\u00e9sent. Et sur toutes ces montagnes, j'\u00e9tais seul avec mon \u00e9quipe. Et c'est vraiment incroyable parce que le N\u00e9pal est un endroit tr\u00e8s fr\u00e9quent\u00e9. Mais les alpinistes se concentrent tous sur quelques montagnes. C'est aussi pour cela que je ne m'int\u00e9resse pas tant \u00e0 l'Ama Dablam ou \u00e0 l'Everest, parce que tout le monde y va. [...] Je vais dans les montagnes pour \u00eatre dans des endroits o\u00f9 il n'y a personne. C'\u00e9tait donc un peu \u00e9trange de faire le Nuptse parce qu'on se trouve dans ce monde fou qu'est le camp de base de l'Everest. Et oui, je ne suis pas s\u00fbr de vouloir retourner \u00e0 cet endroit parce que j'adore le Nuptse. Mais l'endroit d'o\u00f9 vous faites votre exp\u00e9dition est un endroit \u00e9trange. Je n'ai jamais vu une telle chose dans les montagnes.\n\nBeaucoup de gens ne sont pas des alpinistes. Ils veulent aller sur l'Everest et ils veulent faire quelque chose de grand dans leur vie. Je ne suis pas s\u00fbr d'avoir une opinion tr\u00e8s tranch\u00e9e. C'est leur choix. Je ne veux pas juger, mais c'est diff\u00e9rent. Ce n'est pas de l\u2019alpinisme. C'est un peu plus du tourisme de montagne, mais c'est aussi de l'escalade. Des gens qui veulent relever un d\u00e9fi physique, mais qui ne s'int\u00e9ressent pas tellement \u00e0 la montagne. Ce que j'aime chez les alpinistes, c'est qu'ils aiment les montagnes et qu'ils se soucient \u00e9galement de l'environnement. Et c'est quelque chose qui me manque chez beaucoup d'alpinistes qui vont l\u00e0-bas. Mais en m\u00eame temps, chacun a le droit de vivre sa propre aventure. Mais je pense que, du point de vue du gouvernement, il faudrait limiter d'une certaine mani\u00e8re l'impact de tous ces alpinistes en cette saison.\n\nJ'ai peur que l'Everest finisse par devenir une montagne r\u00e9serv\u00e9e aux riches et non plus aux grimpeurs, parce que de plus en plus de grimpeurs \u00e9vitent cet endroit. Je comprends, mais le N\u00e9pal a beaucoup d'endroits magnifiques o\u00f9 l'on peut \u00eatre le seul \u00e0 atteindre le sommet. J'esp\u00e8re que c'est aussi parce que le N\u00e9pal a besoin de revenus. C'est un pays encore tr\u00e8s pauvre et l'Everest est une source de revenus. Mais l'Everest n'est pas la solution, car si nous continuons dans cette direction, \u00e0 un moment donn\u00e9, nous n'aurons plus envie d'y \u00eatre. Quoi qu'il en soit.\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"1200px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/Christian-De-Jong-Nuptse5-scaled.jpg\" title_text=\"Christian De Jong Nuptse5\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" width=\"100%\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nPrakash Sherpa\u00a0sur le Nuptse le 21 mai 2023. \u00a9 Christian De Jong\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" custom_padding=\"0|0px||0px|false|false\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" text_font_size=\"16px\" header_3_line_height=\"1.2em\" header_3_font_size_tablet=\"\" header_3_font_size_phone=\"18px\" header_3_font_size_last_edited=\"on|phone\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n<h3><strong>Quelle relation entretenez-vous avec Prakash Sherpa ?<\/strong><\/h3>\nPrakash Sherpa est aussi guide de haute montagne, mais je ne fais pas d'escalade avec lui en tant que guide de haute montagne. Nous grimpons simplement ensemble. Je ne le paie pas, ni quoi que ce soit d'autre. Nous grimpons en tant qu'amis [...] Je l'ai rencontr\u00e9 l'ann\u00e9e derni\u00e8re lors de notre ascension des sommets de 6000 m\u00e8tres. J'avais un ami n\u00e9erlandais. Nous avons grimp\u00e9 ensemble et nous cherchions un soutien dans l'Himalaya de la part de quelqu'un qui comprenait vraiment ce que c'est que de grimper en style alpin dans l'Himalaya. Prakash est un guide de haute montagne. Il poss\u00e8de sa propre agence de guides et il souhaite vraiment promouvoir l'alpinisme en style alpin au N\u00e9pal. Nous voulions juste un soutien pour les camps de base et toute la logistique : les permis, les permis d'\u00e9limination des d\u00e9chets, toutes ces choses, vous avez besoin de quelqu'un. En dernier lieu, nous avons donc grimp\u00e9 ensemble. Et cette ann\u00e9e, je lui ai dit que j'avais ce plan et que je voulais retourner au N\u00e9pal \u00e0 7000 m\u00e8tres d'altitude. Mais je ne cherchais pas de guide. Je cherchais juste un compagnon de cord\u00e9e. J\u2019ai cherch\u00e9 un compagnon de cord\u00e9e aux Pays-Bas, mais je n'arrivais pas \u00e0 trouver quelqu'un d'autre qui serait capable de faire ce que je voulais faire en termes de technicit\u00e9 ou d'endurance. Et puis il m'a dit : <em>\u00ab Eh bien, je veux juste grimper avec toi et tu n'as pas besoin de me payer. On va juste en faire un beau projet et on verra bien. \u00bb<\/em> Quand je parle de notre relation, les gens pensent qu'il est mon sherpa. Je ne crois pas qu\u2019il soit mon sherpa parce qu'il ne m'appartient pas. Je d\u00e9teste que les gens disent que c'est mon sherpa. Non, bien s\u00fbr, il y a quelqu'un qui vous soutient, mais cela ressemble \u00e0 une sorte de propri\u00e9t\u00e9 occidentale. Et je n'aime pas \u00e7a. Prakash et moi sommes devenus de tr\u00e8s bons amis. Et en fait, notre niveau d'escalade est assez similaire, je pense. Mais Prakash est plus fort en altitude parce qu'il est n\u00e9palais et habitu\u00e9 \u00e0 l'altitude. Je pense donc que pour un Occidental, je suis assez fort en altitude, mais il est encore beaucoup plus fort. Pour moi, c'est le partenaire id\u00e9al pour l'escalade. Mais je lui ai dit que je ne voulais pas \u00eatre guid\u00e9. Nous prenons les d\u00e9cisions ensemble. Nous menons tous les deux les ascensions que nous aimons. Je ne me contente pas de le suivre, nous faisons tout ensemble. On s'est sentis totalement \u00e9gaux.\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"1200px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/Christian-De-Jong-Nuptse3-scaled.jpg\" title_text=\"Christian De Jong Nuptse3\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" width=\"100%\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nChristian De Jong au sommet du Nuptse le 21 mai 2023. \u00a9 Prakash Sherpa\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_margin=\"-1px|auto||auto||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=\"#000000\" quote_icon_background_color=\"#ffffff\" _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" body_font=\"Oswald|700||on|||||\" body_text_align=\"center\" body_text_color=\"#000000\" body_font_size=\"30\" use_background_color=\"off\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">une sorte d'esclavagisme moderne<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" custom_padding=\"0|0px||0px|false|false\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" text_font_size=\"16px\" header_3_line_height=\"1.2em\" header_3_font_size_tablet=\"\" header_3_font_size_phone=\"18px\" header_3_font_size_last_edited=\"on|phone\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n<h3><strong>Comment sont vus les sherpas par les alpinistes occidentaux ?<\/strong><\/h3>\nIl y a tellement d'argent et d'ego au camp de base de l'Everest de la part de tous ces alpinistes occidentaux. Les gens disent : <em>\u00ab Oh, c'est mon sherpa \u00bb<\/em>. Ils et elles ont pay\u00e9 pour leurs services. Et vous voyez des gens avec des sacs \u00e0 la journ\u00e9e ou m\u00eame pas de sac \u00e0 dos passer \u00e0 travers la cascade de glace, aller du camp 1 au camp 2, ou m\u00eame plus haut sur la montagne avec quelques sherpas derri\u00e8re avec un \u00e9norme sac \u00e0 dos luttant pour suivre. C'est une sorte d'esclavagisme moderne. C'est comme si c'\u00e9tait vraiment, ouais, j'ai pay\u00e9 50 000 euros et c'est pourquoi j'ai le droit que quelqu'un d'autre fasse ce travail pour moi. Mais c'est souvent le manque de condition physique ou le manque de compr\u00e9hension de la montagne. Alors oui, ils ont besoin d'\u00eatre compens\u00e9s par quelqu'un qui est en fait tr\u00e8s fort, qui est alors l'alpiniste sherpa et je n'aime pas \u00e7a. Et \u00e0 la fin de l'exp\u00e9dition, ils disent tous, <em>\u00ab je n'aurais pas pu le faire sans mon guide ou sans mon sherpa \u00bb<\/em>. Oui, je suis s\u00fbr que vous n'auriez pas pu. Mais la fa\u00e7on dont vous vous \u00eates comport\u00e9s pendant l'exp\u00e9dition, je ne suis pas s\u00fbr que ce soit la bonne fa\u00e7on de voir les sherpas.\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" custom_padding=\"0|0px||0px|false|false\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" text_font_size=\"16px\" header_3_line_height=\"1.2em\" header_3_font_size_tablet=\"\" header_3_font_size_phone=\"18px\" header_3_font_size_last_edited=\"on|phone\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n<h3><strong>La mentalit\u00e9 vis-\u00e0-vis des sherpas est-elle en train d\u2019\u00e9voluer selon vous ?<\/strong><\/h3>\nOui, je pense que cela va dans les deux sens. D'une part, je pense qu'il y a beaucoup plus d'agences de guides bas\u00e9es au N\u00e9pal avec des guides bas\u00e9s au N\u00e9pal. Et je pense que cela les place, disons, \u00e0 un rang plus \u00e9lev\u00e9. Les gens commencent donc \u00e0 les respecter de plus en plus. Et je pense que c'est le bon c\u00f4t\u00e9 des choses. C'est une \u00e9volution tr\u00e8s positive, car \u00e0 l'\u00e9poque, les guides \u00e9taient toujours occidentaux et les sherpas n'\u00e9taient l\u00e0 que pour les aider. Aujourd'hui, les sherpas dirigent \u00e9galement. Par exemple, Nirmal Purja est l'une des personnes qui a montr\u00e9 que les N\u00e9palais pouvaient aussi \u00eatre au premier plan. C'est un type de personne tr\u00e8s particulier, mais je pense qu'il les a mis sur la carte d'une certaine mani\u00e8re. Et ce que j'aime vraiment, c'est qu'avec une personne comme Prakash, qui est en fait un athl\u00e8te Dynafit, donc un athl\u00e8te pour une marque europ\u00e9enne dans l'Himalaya, ce qui est assez amusant, mais cela montre aussi qu'il n'est pas l\u00e0 uniquement pour le soutien. En fait, il est aussi l\u00e0 pour sa propre r\u00e9ussite. Et c'est pour cela qu\u2019il voulait grimper avec moi sur ces montagnes, parce qu'il n'avait pas encore atteint le sommet du Pumori et du Nuptse et qu'il voulait juste montrer qu\u2019il pouvait faire ces ascensions.\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"1200px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/Christian-De-Jong-Khumbu1.jpg\" title_text=\"Christian De Jong Khumbu1\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" width=\"100%\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nPrakash Sherpa et Christian De Jong sur le glacier du Khumbu. \u00a9 Prakash Sherpa\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_margin=\"-1px|auto||auto||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=\"#000000\" quote_icon_background_color=\"#ffffff\" _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" body_font=\"Oswald|700||on|||||\" body_text_align=\"center\" body_text_color=\"#000000\" body_font_size=\"30\" use_background_color=\"off\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">un projet dans les Alpes<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" custom_padding=\"0|0px||0px|false|false\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" text_font_size=\"16px\" header_3_line_height=\"1.2em\" header_3_font_size_tablet=\"\" header_3_font_size_phone=\"18px\" header_3_font_size_last_edited=\"on|phone\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n<h3><strong>Quels sont vos projets futurs ?<\/strong><\/h3>\nJe veux toujours aller jusqu'\u00e0 8000 m\u00e8tres parce que j'ai eu les permis pour le Lhotse aussi cette ann\u00e9e. Mais apr\u00e8s toutes ces ascensions et apr\u00e8s le Nuptse, la fen\u00eatre m\u00e9t\u00e9o \u00e9tait tr\u00e8s courte et pas id\u00e9ale. Je n'avais que deux jours de repos au camp 2. Je savais que je ne r\u00e9cup\u00e9rerai jamais assez pour faire l'ascension du Lhotse, qui est encore \u00e0 8500 m. Le projet des 8 000 m\u00e8tres reste donc \u00e0 accomplir.\n\nLa face sud du Shishapangma a l'air tellement incroyable et il n'y a eu que peu d'alpinistes, et toutes les voies sont assez dures et certaines sont super dures. C'est par d\u00e9finition du style alpin parce qu'il n'y a personne. Et il faut tout faire soi-m\u00eame. Donc la face sud du Shishapangma aussi parce que le Shishapangma est relativement bas dans les 8000. C'est l'objectif id\u00e9al.\n\nL'ann\u00e9e prochaine, j'ai aussi l'intention de r\u00e9aliser un projet dans les Alpes. L'ascension de tous les sommets de 4000 m\u00e8tres des Alpes en Suisse, parce que je pense que tous les sommets seraient trop longs, mais seule la Suisse en compte 48. Il s'agit donc de la majorit\u00e9 des sommets de 4000 m\u00e8tres, parce que je ne suis pas s\u00fbr de pouvoir y passer tout mon temps libre, mais j'essaierai au moins de tout faire en Suisse et peut-\u00eatre que j'y mettrai le d\u00e9fi suppl\u00e9mentaire d'\u00e9viter toute voie normale.\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[9,20],"tags":[68,35,37,643,567],"class_list":["post-59569","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-himalayas","category-mountaineering","tag-everest","tag-himalayas","tag-nepal","tag-nuptse","tag-pumori"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/59569","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/9571"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=59569"}],"version-history":[{"count":21,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/59569\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":59609,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/59569\/revisions\/59609"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/59570"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=59569"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=59569"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=59569"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}