{"id":59672,"date":"2023-07-24T10:53:00","date_gmt":"2023-07-24T08:53:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/la-montagne-cest-pentu\/"},"modified":"2023-07-25T10:38:18","modified_gmt":"2023-07-25T08:38:18","slug":"this-mountain-so-steep-nanga-parbat","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/this-mountain-so-steep-nanga-parbat\/","title":{"rendered":"This mountain is so steep!"},"content":{"rendered":"\n[et_pb_section fb_built=&#8221;1&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_margin_tablet=&#8221;&#8221; custom_margin_phone=&#8221;&#8221; custom_margin_last_edited=&#8221;on|desktop&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;||||false|false&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; max_width=&#8221;800px&#8221; module_alignment=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin_tablet=&#8221;&#8221; custom_margin_phone=&#8221;&#8221; custom_margin_last_edited=&#8221;on|phone&#8221; use_custom_width=&#8221;on&#8221; custom_width_px=&#8221;800px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/EDITO.png&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; show_bottom_space_tablet=&#8221;&#8221; show_bottom_space_phone=&#8221;&#8221; show_bottom_space_last_edited=&#8221;on|phone&#8221; align_tablet=&#8221;center&#8221; align_phone=&#8221;&#8221; align_last_edited=&#8221;on|desktop&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; max_width=&#8221;35%&#8221; module_alignment=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;||||false|false&#8221; custom_margin_tablet=&#8221;&#8221; custom_margin_phone=&#8221;0px||0px&#8221; custom_margin_last_edited=&#8221;on|desktop&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px||&#8221; border_style=&#8221;solid&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;16px&#8221; header_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; background_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; text_orientation=&#8221;justified&#8221; module_alignment=&#8221;left&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;||||false|false&#8221; hover_enabled=&#8221;0&#8243; z_index_tablet=&#8221;500&#8243; text_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; text_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; text_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_2_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_2_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_2_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_3_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_3_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_3_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_4_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_4_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_4_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_5_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_5_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_5_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_6_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_6_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_6_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_vertical_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_blur_tablet=&#8221;40px&#8221; box_shadow_spread_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; sticky_enabled=&#8221;0&#8243;]<p><span class=\"cb-dropcap-big\">I<\/span>&#8216;m not going to lie to you: I&#8217;m completely out of my depth. Obviously more in french Alps than in Pakistan (geographers will understand), since the Nanga Parbat (8126m) where I was lucky enough to spend 7 weeks, and which was the highlight of my summer. It was good, it was beautiful, it was very high, and you&#8217;ll soon be able to read about this wonderful expedition with Sophie Lavaud and Fran\u00e7ois Damilano on Alpine Mag.<br \/>A month of disconnection isn&#8217;t bad these days. And thanks to a recalcitrant modem that barely allowed me to send text messages, it was all the better for taking a step back.<\/p>\n<p>But it&#8217;s fair to say that by the time Monday morning rolls around and his weekly editorial point of view comes out, I&#8217;m a bit drained. I pick up the thread of Alpine Mag news to bring myself up to date: strong climbers shine in competition, trailers go even faster and higher, the climate warms up again and again and Mont Banc always concentrates the worst and the best. It&#8217;s all been said. So, what&#8217;s next?<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=&#8221;#000000&#8243; quote_icon_background_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; body_font=&#8221;Oswald|700||on|||||&#8221; body_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; body_text_color=&#8221;#000000&#8243; body_font_size=&#8221;30px&#8221; use_background_color=&#8221;off&#8221; hover_enabled=&#8221;0&#8243; z_index_tablet=&#8221;500&#8243; author_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; author_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; author_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; position_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; position_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; position_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; company_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; company_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; company_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; body_link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; body_link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; body_link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; body_ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; body_ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; body_ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; body_ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; body_ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; body_ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; body_quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; body_quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; body_quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_vertical_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_blur_tablet=&#8221;40px&#8221; box_shadow_spread_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_horizontal_image_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_vertical_image_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_blur_image_tablet=&#8221;40px&#8221; box_shadow_spread_image_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; saved_tabs=&#8221;all&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; sticky_enabled=&#8221;0&#8243;]<p>even when you get out of the tent to pee, <br \/>you have to be careful not to fall<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;16px&#8221; header_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; background_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; text_orientation=&#8221;justified&#8221; module_alignment=&#8221;left&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;||40px||false|false&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;||||false|false&#8221; hover_enabled=&#8221;0&#8243; z_index_tablet=&#8221;500&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; sticky_enabled=&#8221;0&#8243;]<p>So I&#8217;m looking for something original to tell you, something you might have missed, some breaking news to surprise you on your beach towel, something to cause a wow effect. I remind myself that there&#8217;s no better way to get to the heart of the matter than through experience. And I dive into my photos.<br \/>I inevitably come back to Nanga Parbat, as it was my only horizon for several weeks, the horizon of the landscape but also of my brainstorming. Come on, I&#8217;ll give it to you straight: the Nanga is steep.<\/p>\n<p>Yes, it is! The mountain, this mountain in particular, is decidedly, terribly, indisputably steep, everywhere! And it&#8217;s important to remember: climbing an 8000 is not just about high-altitude hiking. Quite the contrary. There are no flat spots or respites here. It&#8217;s always uphill, always leaning. Even when you get out of the tent to pee, you have to be careful not to fall.\u00a0<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=&#8221;#000000&#8243; quote_icon_background_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; body_font=&#8221;Oswald|700||on|||||&#8221; body_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; body_text_color=&#8221;#000000&#8243; body_font_size=&#8221;30px&#8221; use_background_color=&#8221;off&#8221; hover_enabled=&#8221;0&#8243; z_index_tablet=&#8221;500&#8243; author_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; author_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; author_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; position_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; position_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; position_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; company_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; company_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; company_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; body_link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; body_link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; body_link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; body_ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; body_ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; body_ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; body_ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; body_ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; body_ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; body_quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; body_quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; body_quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_vertical_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_blur_tablet=&#8221;40px&#8221; box_shadow_spread_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_horizontal_image_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_vertical_image_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_blur_image_tablet=&#8221;40px&#8221; box_shadow_spread_image_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; saved_tabs=&#8221;all&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; sticky_enabled=&#8221;0&#8243;]<p><span>It&#8217;s simply beautiful, isn&#8217;t it?<\/span><\/p>\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.0&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;16px&#8221; header_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; background_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; text_orientation=&#8221;justified&#8221; module_alignment=&#8221;left&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;||||false|false&#8221; hover_enabled=&#8221;0&#8243; z_index_tablet=&#8221;500&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; sticky_enabled=&#8221;0&#8243;]<p>High-level mountaineers (who are in a different league, and by the way, don&#8217;t have much to do on the normal routes of the 8000s &#8211; more on that later) will retort. And yes, the whole thing is equipped with fixed ropes, but anyone who&#8217;s ever pulled over it with a jumar knows that it doesn&#8217;t raise the slope! The verticality of Nanga Parbat is unique in the 14 x 8000m landscape, and deserves to be shown.<\/p>\n<p>So here&#8217;s a photo editorial with this image of Camp 2, at 6050m, balancing precariously on a devilishly tapering ridge. Spot the footsteps: they plunge straight down and get lost in the final dihedral of the Kinshofer wall. It&#8217;s simply beautiful, isn&#8217;t it? And it allows us to get away from our insider&#8217;s debates and let ourselves be carried away by the aesthetics of the place, without any further technical details.<br \/>And what if this is what mountaineering is all about?<\/p>\n<p>* The title of this editorial is a nod to french alpinist and author Pierre Chapoutot and his book &#8220;La montagne c&#8217;est pointu&#8221; (Gu\u00e9rin, 1997).<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>I&#8216;m not going to lie to you: I&#8217;m completely out of my depth&#8230;.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":59673,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[16,20],"tags":[143,170,40],"class_list":["post-59672","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-editorial","category-mountaineering","tag-himalaya","tag-nanga-parbat","tag-pakistan"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/59672","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=59672"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/59672\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":59678,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/59672\/revisions\/59678"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/59673"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=59672"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=59672"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=59672"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}