{"id":59830,"date":"2023-09-07T10:41:30","date_gmt":"2023-09-07T08:41:30","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/escalade-trad-james-pearson-soffre-lune-des-voies-les-plus-mythiques-du-royaume-uni\/"},"modified":"2023-09-07T11:23:04","modified_gmt":"2023-09-07T09:23:04","slug":"climber-james-pearson-parthian-shot","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/climber-james-pearson-parthian-shot\/","title":{"rendered":"James Pearson climbs Parthian Shot and the story behind this iconic british route"},"content":{"rendered":"\n[et_pb_section fb_built=”1″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_margin=”||||false|false” custom_padding=”||16px|||” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.19.0″ header_font=”|on|||” text_orientation=”center” module_alignment=”center” hover_enabled=”0″ header_font_size_tablet=”” header_font_size_phone=”16px” header_font_size_last_edited=”on|desktop” header_2_font_size_tablet=”” header_2_font_size_phone=”16px” header_2_font_size_last_edited=”on|phone” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

It’s one of the most famous routes in the UK: on the famous “gritstone”, in trad climbing of course. Parthian Shot, as it’s called, has seen the cream of British climbers come and go over the past two decades, but its recent remarkable ascent by James Pearson deserves a closer look at the history of this route, where you must not fall.<\/strong><\/h2>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=”1″ _builder_version=”4.19.0″ custom_margin=”||||false|false” custom_padding=”48px||||false|false” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”800px” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.19.0″ text_font_size=”16px” hover_enabled=”0″ global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

P<\/span>arthian Shot was opened by John Dunne in 1989 in the Peak District, Burbage, a stronghold of trad climbing. A magnificent sandstone prow, overhanging, terribly aesthetic, but dangerous. In keeping with the local ethic, no bolts were placed and only a few stoppers protected the route. At the time, John Dunne finally dared to climb the route by placing protection ‘on lead’, the crucial stoppers were placed behind a fragile flake, the only protection against crashing to the ground from the top of the route. Dunne didn’t fall over it the day he succeeded in leading his route, rated E9 at the time, i.e. around 8a\/+.<\/span><\/p>\n

In 1997, the first to repeat the route, Seb Grieve, shattered the myth by taking several falls, on lead, at the exit of the route… after having checked that the flake, and the stoppers placed inside, would hold up, by having thrown a bag over it beforehand!<\/span><\/p>\n

Parthian Shot has become the route to go for, especially as it’s not as risky as it used to be. Americans such as Alex Honnold and Kevin Jorgenson (who later climbed the Dawn Wall with Caldwell) tried the route, and in the video of his climb, Jorgenson took several falls on the famous flake previous to his successful lead. In 2011, tragedy struck: a young Canadian climber fell at the top of the route, the scale broke and he crashed to the ground, ending up in hospital with a broken leg. Parthian Shot once again became a feared route.<\/span><\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=”1_2,1_2″ _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”1200px” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”1_2″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/james_pearson-3579.jpg” title_text=”james_pearson-3579″ show_in_lightbox=”on” show_bottom_space=”off” align=”center” _builder_version=”4.19.0″ width=”100%” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.19.0″ text_font=”Merriweather|900|||||||” text_font_size=”16″ custom_margin=”||||false|false” border_style=”solid” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}”]

\u00a9collection James Pearson<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=”1_2″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/james_pearson-3580.jpg” title_text=”james_pearson-3580″ _builder_version=”4.19.0″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”800px” custom_margin=”||||false|false” custom_padding=”0|0px||0px|false|false” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.19.0″ text_font_size=”16px” hover_enabled=”0″ global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

No more flake means that climbing and moreover protection are trickier. The route once again becomes one where you must not fall. What’s more, a new hold broke in 2023, making the route more difficult. Accustomed to gritstone, James Pearson settled in the south of France several years ago. There, he opened and climbed Le Voyage in Annot, in 2017, then Bon Voyage (E10\/7a) this year 2023. During a brief visit to the UK recently, he returned to see Parthian Shot.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\u00ab Parthian might be my longest running Gritstone project, at least for routes I\u2019ve actively been trying. I first looked at it back in 2005, when it still had all of its holds, and remember being blown away boy how steep and pumpy it was! As a younger climber there is just no way I could have done something like this, and even once I had developed the fitness, I always found the top boulder desperate enough to put me off ever wanting to try it above the terrible looking protection.<\/em>\u00a0\u00bb<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_margin=”-1px|auto||auto||” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=”#000000″ quote_icon_background_color=”#ffffff” _builder_version=”4.19.0″ body_font=”Oswald|700||on|||||” body_text_align=”center” body_text_color=”#000000″ body_font_size=”30″ use_background_color=”off” custom_margin=”||||false|false” hover_enabled=”0″ saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

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I decided that if I wanted to one <\/span>day lead Parthian Shot, I\u2019d do it like John Dunne\u2019s original ascent<\/span>. Gear in the flake alone, placed on lead, <\/span>knowing I shouldn\u2019t fall. <\/span>james Pearson<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”800px” custom_margin=”||||false|false” custom_padding=”0|0px||0px|false|false” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.19.0″ text_font_size=”16px” hover_enabled=”0″ global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

In fact, after the scale broke, other climbers found a way around it by placing protection on the right, making a fall a real possibility. This was out of the question for James Pearson, who wanted to climb the mythical Parthian Shot as directly as possible, without placing stoppers in the right-hand dihedral.<\/p>\n

\u00ab I always try to match or improve on what has been ethically done before. Then, start on the ground, climb the route, placing gear wherever you climb, and hopefully get to the top. Obviously, things are never black or white, but side runners and pre-placed gear are two things I really try to avoid. I decided that if I wanted to one day lead Parthian Shot, I\u2019d do it like John Dunne\u2019s original ascent. Gear in the flake alone, placed on lead, knowing I shouldn\u2019t fall <\/em>\u00bb <\/i>told\u00a0James.<\/i><\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=”1_2,1_2″ _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”1200px” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”1_2″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/james_pearson-3585.jpg” title_text=”james_pearson-3585″ show_in_lightbox=”on” show_bottom_space=”off” align=”center” _builder_version=”4.19.0″ width=”100%” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.19.0″ text_font=”Merriweather|900|||||||” text_font_size=”16″ custom_margin=”||||false|false” border_style=”solid” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}”]

\u00a9collection James Pearson<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=”1_2″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/james_pearson-3570.jpg” title_text=”james_pearson-3570″ _builder_version=”4.19.0″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.19.0″ text_font=”Merriweather|900|||||||” text_font_size=”16″ custom_margin=”-17px||||false|false” hover_enabled=”0″ border_style=”solid” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

Mini rack for Parthian Shot \u00a9collection James Pearson<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”800px” custom_margin=”50px|||” custom_padding=”0|0px|22.796875px|0px|false|false” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.19.0″ text_font_size=”16px” hover_enabled=”0″ global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

En l\u2019occurence, James Pearson trouve la voie plus difficile depuis le bris d\u2019une autre prise, car au lieu d\u2019un mouvement statique, il faut ajouter un mouvement dynamique \u00e0 cet endroit pour passer. Il raconte son ascension. \u00ab The day of the lead went well. I climbed the route on my first try of the day, the protection went in quickly and efficiently, and I had plenty to spare on the crux and the upper slab, which really allowed me to enjoy the whole process. These days, when I climb a potentially dangerous route, I need to be fairly certain I won\u2019t fall, or I just won\u2019t set off in the first place.
Regarding the danger of Parthian Shot, it\u2019s actually a really hard one to judge. The wires themselves are not too bad, and a couple of them are quite deep, but the flake is undeniably hollow, and since the wires are all pretty small it\u2019s hard to say exactly what will happen when you take a big fall and it expands. I have a feeling that it would probably hold a fall, maybe even a few, but eventually, just like before, given enough abuse it will probably fail again. How many falls this might take is anyone\u2019s guess? All I can hope is that people take a little more care with themselves and the route than they did in the early 2000\u2019s. Perhaps at the end of the day the side runner is actually a good idea? \u00bb<\/i><\/i><\/p>\n

Surely pleased to add Parthian Shot to his collection of committed routes, James Pearson confirms that, as it stands, you shouldn’t fall headlong into this route, and announces E10\/6c, the first commitment rating being close to the maximum (E11). No doubt a reminder that in trad climbing, the game is pushed far. And a game where the manner and the ethics count as much as the result.<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

It’s one of the most famous routes in the UK: on the famous…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":24,"featured_media":59831,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"[et_pb_section fb_built=\"1\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" custom_padding=\"||16px|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" background_size=\"initial\" background_position=\"top_left\" background_repeat=\"repeat\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" header_font=\"|on|||\" text_orientation=\"center\" module_alignment=\"center\" header_font_size_tablet=\"\" header_font_size_phone=\"16px\" header_font_size_last_edited=\"on|desktop\" header_2_font_size_tablet=\"\" header_2_font_size_phone=\"16px\" header_2_font_size_last_edited=\"on|phone\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n

C\u2019est l\u2019une des voies les plus c\u00e9l\u00e8bres du Royaume-Uni : sur le fameux \u00ab\u00a0gritstone\u00a0\u00bb, en escalade trad bien s\u00fbr, entendez sur coinceurs. Depuis deux d\u00e9cennies, Parthian Shot<\/em>, c\u2019est son nom, a vu d\u00e9filer la cr\u00e8me des grimpeurs britanniques, mais sa r\u00e9cente ascension, remarquable, par James Pearson, m\u00e9rite qu\u2019on s\u2019attarde sur l\u2019histoire de cette voie o\u00f9 il ne faut pas tomber.<\/strong><\/h2>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=\"1\" _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" custom_padding=\"48px||||false|false\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" text_font_size=\"16px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\n[dropcap size=big]S[\/dropcap]itu\u00e9e dans le Peak District, \u00e0 Burbage, fief de l\u2019escalade trad, Parthian Shot a \u00e9t\u00e9 ouverte par John Dunne en 1989. Une magnifique proue de gr\u00e8s, d\u00e9versante, terriblement esth\u00e9tique, mais dangereuse. Suivant l\u2019\u00e9thique locale, aucun spit n\u2019est plac\u00e9 et seuls quelques coinceurs prot\u00e8gent la voie. \u00c0 l\u2019\u00e9poque John Dunne finit par oser gravir la voie en pla\u00e7ant les coinceurs \u00ab on lead<\/i> \u00bb, dont ceux, cruciaux, sont plac\u00e9s derri\u00e8re une \u00e9caille fragile, seule protection pour \u00e9viter un crash au sol dans le haut de la voie. Dunne ne tombera pas dessus, le jour o\u00f9 il r\u00e9ussit, en t\u00eate, sa voie, cot\u00e9e E9 \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9poque, soit autour de 8a\/+.\n\nEn 1997 le premier r\u00e9p\u00e9titeur, Seb Grieve, brise le mythe en prenant plusieurs chutes, en t\u00eate, \u00e0 la sortie de la voie\u2026 apr\u00e8s avoir v\u00e9rifi\u00e9 que l\u2019\u00e9caille, et les coinceurs plac\u00e9s dedans, tiendrait le coup, en ayant balanc\u00e9 un sac au pr\u00e9alable dessus !\n\nParthian Shot devient la voie \u00e0 faire, d\u2019autant qu\u2019elle n\u2019est plus aussi risqu\u00e9e qu\u2019avant. Des am\u00e9ricains tels qu\u2019Alex Honnold et Kevin Jorgenson (qui a gravi le Dawn Wall ensuite avec Caldwell) essayent la voie, et dans la vid\u00e9o de son encha\u00eenement, Jorgenson prend auparavant plusieurs chutes sur la fameuse \u00e9caille. En 2011 c\u2019est le drame : un jeune grimpeur canadien tombe en haut de la voie, l\u2019\u00e9caille casse et il s\u2019\u00e9crase au sol, et finit \u00e0 l\u2019h\u00f4pital, jambe bris\u00e9e. Parthian Shot redevient une voie pas ou peu faite.\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=\"1_2,1_2\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"1200px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"1_2\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/james_pearson-3579.jpg\" title_text=\"james_pearson-3579\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" width=\"100%\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\n\u00a9collection James Pearson\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=\"1_2\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/james_pearson-3580.jpg\" title_text=\"james_pearson-3580\" _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" _module_preset=\"default\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" custom_padding=\"0|0px||0px|false|false\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" text_font_size=\"16px\" hover_enabled=\"0\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" sticky_enabled=\"0\"]\n

Plus d\u2019\u00e9caille ne veut pas dire plus de coinceurs, mais ceux-ci sont encore plus d\u00e9licats \u00e0 placer : la voie redevient une voie o\u00f9 il ne faut pas tomber. De plus, une nouvelle prise s\u2019est cass\u00e9e en 2023, rendant l\u2019encha\u00eenement plus difficile. Habitu\u00e9 au gritstone, James Pearson<\/strong> s\u2019est \u00e9tabli depuis plusieurs ann\u00e9es dans le sud de la France. En trad, il a ouvert et gravi Le Voyage<\/em> \u00e0 Annot, en 2017, puis Bon Voyage<\/em> (E10\/7a) cette ann\u00e9e 2023. Au cours d\u2019un bref passage au Royaume-Uni r\u00e9cemment, il est retourn\u00e9 voir Parthian Shot.<\/p>\n

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\u00ab\u00a0Parthian est peut-\u00eatre mon plus vieux projet sur le gritstone, du moins en ce qui concerne les voies que j'ai activement essay\u00e9es. Je l'ai vue pour la premi\u00e8re fois en 2005 ! En tant que jeune grimpeur, je n'aurais jamais pu faire quelque chose comme \u00e7a, et m\u00eame une fois que j'ai d\u00e9velopp\u00e9 ma condition physique, j'ai toujours trouv\u00e9 le bloc du haut suffisamment d\u00e9sesp\u00e9rant pour me d\u00e9courager de le tenter au-dessus d\u2019un coinceur minable<\/i>\u00a0\u00bb<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_margin=\"-1px|auto||auto||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=\"#000000\" quote_icon_background_color=\"#ffffff\" _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" body_font=\"Oswald|700||on|||||\" body_text_align=\"center\" body_text_color=\"#000000\" body_font_size=\"30\" use_background_color=\"off\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nJ'ai d\u00e9cid\u00e9 que si je voulais un jour cocher Parthian Shot, je le ferais comme John Dunne. Des coinceurs dans l\u2019axe, plac\u00e9s en t\u00eate, et sachant que je ne devrais pas tomber. james Pearson\n\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" custom_padding=\"0|0px||0px|false|false\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" text_font_size=\"16px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n

En fait, apr\u00e8s que l\u2019\u00e9caille se soit bris\u00e9e, d\u2019autres grimpeurs ont trouv\u00e9 une parade, en pla\u00e7ant des protections \u00e0 droite, rendant la chute envisageable. Il n\u2019en \u00e9tait pas question pour James Pearson qui a voulu gravir le mythe Parthian Shot le plus directement possible, sans aller placer des coinceurs dans le di\u00e8dre de droite.<\/p>\n

\u00ab\u00a0J\u2019essaie toujours d'\u00e9galer ou d'am\u00e9liorer ce qui a \u00e9t\u00e9 fait auparavant de mani\u00e8re \u00e9thique. Ensuite, je commence au sol, je grimpe la voie en pla\u00e7ant du mat\u00e9riel l\u00e0 o\u00f9 je grimpe, et j'esp\u00e8re arriver en haut. \u00c9videmment, les choses ne sont jamais noires ou blanches, mais les coinceurs en dehors de la voie et le mat\u00e9riel plac\u00e9 \u00e0 l'avance sont deux choses que j'essaie vraiment d'\u00e9viter. J'ai d\u00e9cid\u00e9 que si je voulais un jour mener Parthian Shot, je le ferais comme l'ascension originale de John Dunne. Des coinceurs dans l\u2019axe de la voie uniquement, plac\u00e9s en t\u00eate, sachant que je ne devrais pas tomber \u00bb <\/i>explique James.<\/i><\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=\"1_2,1_2\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"1200px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"1_2\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/james_pearson-3585.jpg\" title_text=\"james_pearson-3585\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" width=\"100%\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\n\u00a9collection James Pearson\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=\"1_2\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/james_pearson-3570.jpg\" title_text=\"james_pearson-3570\" _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" _module_preset=\"default\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"-17px||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nLe rack minimaliste utilis\u00e9 pour gravir Parthian Shot. \u00a9collection James Pearson\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" custom_margin=\"50px|||\" custom_padding=\"0|0px|22.796875px|0px|false|false\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.19.0\" text_font_size=\"16px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n

En l\u2019occurence, James Pearson trouve la voie plus difficile depuis le bris d\u2019une autre prise, car au lieu d\u2019un mouvement statique, il faut ajouter un mouvement dynamique \u00e0 cet endroit pour passer. Il raconte son ascension. \u00ab\u00a0J'ai grimp\u00e9 la voie d\u00e8s mon premier essai de la journ\u00e9e, j\u2019ai mis les protections rapidement et efficacement, et j'ai eu beaucoup de temps dans le crux et la dalle sup\u00e9rieure, ce qui m'a permis d'appr\u00e9cier l'ensemble du processus. De nos jours, lorsque je grimpe une voie potentiellement dangereuse, je dois \u00eatre certain de ne pas tomber, sinon je ne me lance pas.\u00a0\u00bb<\/i><\/i><\/p>\n

S\u00fbrement heureux d\u2019ajouter Parthian Shot \u00e0 sa collection de voies engag\u00e9es, James Pearson confirme qu\u2019en l\u2019\u00e9tat, il ne faut pas tomber en t\u00eate dans cette voie, et annonce E10\/6c, la premi\u00e8re cotation d\u2019engagement \u00e9tant proche du maximal (E11). Sans doute un rappel qu\u2019en escalade trad, le jeu est pouss\u00e9 loin. Et un jeu o\u00f9 la mani\u00e8re compte autant que le r\u00e9sultat.<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[19,11],"tags":[39,44],"class_list":["post-59830","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climbing","category-world","tag-climbing","tag-james-pearson"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/59830","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/24"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=59830"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/59830\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":59839,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/59830\/revisions\/59839"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/59831"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=59830"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=59830"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=59830"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}