{"id":60293,"date":"2024-03-07T14:13:00","date_gmt":"2024-03-07T13:13:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/la-vie-suspendue-devgeni-glazunov\/"},"modified":"2024-03-20T14:55:56","modified_gmt":"2024-03-20T13:55:56","slug":"suspended-life-evgeni-glazunov","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/suspended-life-evgeni-glazunov\/","title":{"rendered":"The suspended life of Evgeni Glazunov"},"content":{"rendered":"\n[et_pb_section fb_built=”1″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_margin_tablet=”” custom_margin_phone=”” custom_margin_last_edited=”on|desktop” custom_padding=”1px||||false|false” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.22.1″ _module_preset=”default” max_width=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.22.1″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/alpine.quotes-02.png” title_text=”alpine.quotes-02″ align=”center” show_bottom_space_tablet=”” show_bottom_space_phone=”” show_bottom_space_last_edited=”on|phone” align_tablet=”center” align_phone=”” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” _builder_version=”4.22.1″ max_width=”50%” max_width_tablet=”” max_width_phone=”100%” max_width_last_edited=”on|desktop” module_alignment=”center” custom_margin=”||-40px||false|false” custom_margin_tablet=”” custom_margin_phone=”0px||-40px||false|false” custom_margin_last_edited=”on|phone” custom_padding=”0px||||false|false” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.22.1″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”800px” module_alignment=”center” custom_margin_tablet=”” custom_margin_phone=”” custom_margin_last_edited=”on|phone” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.22.1″ text_font_size=”18px” hover_enabled=”0″ z_index_tablet=”500″ global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

W<\/span>hether we like it or not, our gaze remains constrained by borders. The ones that separated us from Evgeni Glazunov can be counted in dozens, piling up like opaque filters from our base camp in the French Alps to the far reaches of Siberia. These filters are all the more powerful because Russia is not the most transparent of states, especially in wartime.<\/p>\n

Yet Glazunov was one of his country’s finest climbers and mountaineers. From his hometown of Irkutsk, on the shores of Lake Baikal, he had been a competitive sport climber, champion in his own country, even earning the national title of “Master of Mountaineering”, like a certain Valery Babanov. He was an active presence in the mountains of Central Asia. With several 7,000 m peaks to his credit, numerous open routes and just as many very difficult repeated routes, Glazunov was a multi-talented mountaineer, a free spirit and sometimes a protestor, resistant to the intrusion of money into the world of mountaineering.<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/evgeny-glazunov-mountain.ru_.jpg” title_text=”evgeny-glazunov-mountain.ru” show_bottom_space=”off” align=”center” force_fullwidth=”on” _builder_version=”4.22.1″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.22.1″ text_font=”Merriweather|900|||||||” text_font_size=”16″ custom_margin=”||||false|false” hover_enabled=”0″ border_style=”solid” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

Evgeni Glazunov, his humor and his taste for vintage jackets. \u00a9Coll. mountain.ru<\/a><\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.22.1″ text_font_size=”18px” z_index_tablet=”500″ global_colors_info=”{}”]

D\u2019apr\u00e8s notre cons\u0153ur Anna Piunova du media russe mountain.ru<\/a>,<\/strong> Glazunov \u00e9tait tr\u00e8s attach\u00e9 \u00e0 son ind\u00e9pendance, dur avec lui-m\u00eame et avec ses potentiels sponsors. Les accrochages n\u2019\u00e9taient pas rares. C\u2019\u00e9tait un homme droit dans ses bottes qui ne manquait pas de courage. En montagne et ailleurs.<\/p>\n

C\u2019est pour \u00e9chapper \u00e0 diff\u00e9rentes autorit\u00e9s de r\u00e9glementation de la pratique en Russie qu\u2019il se tourne progressivement vers le solo, et si possible en hiver. Ultime r\u00e9alisation : la face nord de l\u2019Aksu (5355 m, Pamir Alai) au Kirghizistan, par la voie Chaplinsky (6B, cotation russe, soit ED+ en cotation fran\u00e7aise). Apr\u00e8s une ascension r\u00e9ussie qu\u2019il a confirm\u00e9e par t\u00e9l\u00e9phone depuis le la cr\u00eate sommitale mi-f\u00e9vrier dernier, l\u2019alpiniste de 37 ans aurait \u00e9t\u00e9 victime d\u2019une chute de pierres \u00e0 la descente. Il lui restait quelques longueurs \u00e0 descendre en rappel\u2026<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=”#000000″ quote_icon_background_color=”#ffffff” _builder_version=”4.22.1″ body_font=”Oswald|700||on|||||” body_text_align=”center” body_text_color=”#000000″ body_font_size=”30″ use_background_color=”off” custom_margin=”50px||||false|false” hover_enabled=”0″ saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

He was one of the last
romantics in mountaineering<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”800px” module_alignment=”center” custom_margin_tablet=”” custom_margin_phone=”” custom_margin_last_edited=”on|phone” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.22.1″ text_font_size=”18px” hover_enabled=”0″ z_index_tablet=”500″ global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

Little publicized in Europe, or even in the West, Glazunov was nevertheless not the least well-known of Russian mountaineers, just like his brother Sergei who died in Latok in 2018. Even on Alpine Mag, type in Glazunov and you’ll find very little information. Add Evgeni, and you’ll come up empty, since it’s Sergei who stands out. It was by limiting his communication that Evgeni preserved his freedom. “He was one of the last romantics in mountaineering<\/em>,” confides Anna Piunova.<\/p>\n

On the thousand-meter wall of the Aksu North Face, only a few dozen meters separated him from the ground and the world below. Although his body was found a few days later, Evgeni Glazunov’s spirit remained up there, and with it the opportunity to meet a free and discreet man, freed from most of the ties that bind us. He seemed like nothing.<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Whether we like it or not, our gaze remains constrained by borders. The ones…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":60294,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[85,16,11],"tags":[625,719,680,720],"class_list":["post-60293","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-adventure","category-editorial","category-world","tag-death","tag-evgeni-glazunov","tag-pamir","tag-russia"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/60293","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=60293"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/60293\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":60298,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/60293\/revisions\/60298"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/60294"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=60293"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=60293"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=60293"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}