{"id":60452,"date":"2024-03-25T10:59:26","date_gmt":"2024-03-25T09:59:26","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/en-alaska-big-wall-givre-pour-les-polonais-pawel-haldas-et-marcin-tomaszewski\/"},"modified":"2024-03-26T14:39:23","modified_gmt":"2024-03-26T13:39:23","slug":"alaska-big-wall-polish-climber-pawel-haldas-marcin-tomaszewski","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/alaska-big-wall-polish-climber-pawel-haldas-marcin-tomaszewski\/","title":{"rendered":"In Alaska, a frozen big wall for the Polish climbers Pawe\u0142 Ha\u0142da\u015b and Marcin Tomaszewski"},"content":{"rendered":"\n\n\n\n[et_pb_section fb_built=”1″ _builder_version=”4.22.1″ custom_margin=”||||false|false” custom_padding=”4px||0px||false|false” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” custom_padding=”11px|||||” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.22.1″ header_font=”|on|||” header_2_line_height=”1.2em” text_orientation=”center” module_alignment=”center” hover_enabled=”0″ header_font_size_tablet=”” header_font_size_phone=”16px” header_font_size_last_edited=”on|desktop” header_2_font_size_tablet=”” header_2_font_size_phone=”20px” header_2_font_size_last_edited=”on|phone” text_orientation_tablet=”center” text_orientation_phone=”left” text_orientation_last_edited=”on|desktop” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

In Alaska’s Denali National Park, from February 28th to March 8th, 2024, Polish climbers Pawe\u0142 Ha\u0142da\u015b and Marcin Tomaszewski pioneered a new route on the vast south face of Moose’s Tooth. After ten days of ascent, the team named the line “Cold War<\/em>” (980m, A3, M5+), in reference to the long struggle against freezing temperatures and frostbite they had to endure along the climb.<\/span><\/strong><\/h2>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=”1″ _builder_version=”4.22.1″ custom_margin=”0px||||false|false” custom_margin_tablet=”0px||||false|false” custom_margin_phone=”0px||||false|false” custom_margin_last_edited=”on|phone” custom_padding=”1px||||false|false” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.22.1″ max_width=”800px” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.22.1″ text_font_size=”18px” hover_enabled=”0″ global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

Going climbing in Alaska in the heart of winter \u2013 now there’s a peculiar idea! Yet, it’s precisely this idea that crossed the minds of Pawe\u0142 Ha\u0142da\u015b<\/strong> and Marcin Tomaszewski,<\/strong> also known as “Yeti”,<\/strong> when deciding on their future vacation plans. But fret not, these two Poles are, to put it mildly, what we call seasoned mountaineers. With steely gazes and chiseled features, they resemble more ice axe warriors than crag climbers. Accustomed to “challenging, technical, and time-consuming terrain”<\/em>, here they are in their field of predilection.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”1200px” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/marcin-tomaszewski-22.jpg” title_text=”marcin-tomaszewski-22″ show_in_lightbox=”on” show_bottom_space=”off” align=”center” _builder_version=”4.22.1″ width=”100%” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.22.1″ text_font=”Merriweather|900|||||||” text_font_size=”16″ custom_margin=”||||false|false” hover_enabled=”0″ border_style=”solid” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

Marcin Tomaszewski and Pawel Haldas in preparation for the expedition.\u00a0\u00a9Coll.Tomaszewski\/Haldas<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.22.1″ max_width=”800px” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.22.1″ text_font_size=”18px” hover_enabled=”0″ global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

By completing this first winter ascent on one of the peaks of the Moose’s Tooth<\/strong> massif, the team undoubtedly marks a new major achievement in the world of big wall climbing. Moreover, this latest feat is not their first show of strength. Last year, in February 2023,<\/strong> they opened “FRAM” (700m,<\/strong>\u00a0A3,<\/strong>\u00a0<\/em>M5)<\/em><\/strong>, a new route on the west coast of Greenland<\/a>, blending exploration and commitment. With this accomplishment, they achieved the feat of being the first to climb a wall of such magnitude in Greenland during the winter season.<\/span><\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_margin=”-1px|auto||auto||” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=”#000000″ quote_icon_background_color=”#ffffff” _builder_version=”4.22.1″ body_font=”Oswald|700||on|||||” body_text_align=”center” body_text_color=”#000000″ body_font_size=”30″ use_background_color=”off” custom_margin=”||||false|false” hover_enabled=”0″ saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

When embracing Adventure
rhymes with frostbites<\/span><\/p>\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=”1_2,1_2″ use_custom_gutter=”on” gutter_width=”2″ _builder_version=”4.22.1″ width=”100%” max_width=”1200px” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”1_2″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/marcin-tomaszewski-9.jpg” title_text=”marcin-tomaszewski-9″ show_in_lightbox=”on” show_bottom_space=”off” align=”center” _builder_version=”4.22.1″ width=”100%” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.22.1″ text_font=”Merriweather|900|||||||” text_font_size=”16″ custom_margin=”||||false|false” hover_enabled=”0″ border_style=”solid” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

Cold War<\/em> \u00a9Coll.Tomaszewski\/Haldas<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=”1_2″ _builder_version=”4.22.1″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.22.1″ text_font_size=”18px” hover_enabled=”0″ global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

Although a few thousand kilometers apart, this year’s objective was, on paper, not all that different. A big face of rotten rock, not much information on the web and cold, lots of cold. As Marcin Tomaszewski explains on his Facebook account, “the media was silent on the subject of winter bigwall ascents in Alaska. So we decided to let go, take it easy and not focus on it but just open ourselves up to the adventure.”<\/em><\/p>\n

Open to adventure, that’s a fine philosophy. Except that here, adventure rhymes with frostbites.\u00a0 Strangely enough, the freedom to choose one’s line as desired\u2014which Marcin compares to picking a cookie at the confectionery as a child\u2014suddenly feels much less weightless. Don’t be misled by the casual tone of the report; one thing is for certain, on this south face of Moose’s Tooth, <\/span>business couldn’t be more serious.<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_margin=”-1px|auto||auto||” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=”#000000″ quote_icon_background_color=”#ffffff” _builder_version=”4.22.1″ body_font=”Oswald|700||on|||||” body_text_align=”center” body_text_color=”#000000″ body_font_size=”30″ use_background_color=”off” custom_margin=”||||false|false” hover_enabled=”0″ saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

A battle with
winter and the wall<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row use_custom_gutter=”on” gutter_width=”2″ _builder_version=”4.22.1″ max_width=”800px” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.22.1″ text_font_size=”18px” hover_enabled=”0″ global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

Right from the first morning, on the approach, the tone is set. Tomaszewski recounts : “We set the alarm clock for 6 a.m., left the tent briskly at 7 a.m. only to return to it even more briskly less than a minute later! To our still warm sleeping bags. It was really cold.”<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

The alarm clock is set back to wait for milder temperatures. The two Poles then took a whole day to climb the 60\/70\u00b0 snow slopes that mark the start of the route, huge hauling bags on their backs. They then set up their first portaledge bivouac.<\/p>\n

The very next day, they tackle the initial pitches. According to Marcin, it was at this point that “the battle with winter and, secondarily, with the wall, began.”<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row use_custom_gutter=”on” gutter_width=”2″ _builder_version=”4.22.1″ width=”100%” max_width=”1200px” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/marcin-tomaszewski-16.jpg” title_text=”marcin-tomaszewski-16″ show_in_lightbox=”on” show_bottom_space=”off” align=”center” _builder_version=”4.22.1″ width=”100%” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.22.1″ text_font=”Merriweather|900|||||||” text_font_size=”16″ custom_margin=”||||false|false” hover_enabled=”0″ border_style=”solid” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

Hauling and ascending on fixed ropes in the cold. \u00a9Coll.Tomaszewski\/Haldas<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_margin=”-1px|auto||auto||” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=”#000000″ quote_icon_background_color=”#ffffff” _builder_version=”4.22.1″ body_font=”Oswald|700||on|||||” body_text_align=”center” body_text_color=”#000000″ body_font_size=”30″ use_background_color=”off” custom_margin=”||||false|false” hover_enabled=”0″ saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

\u00a0-30\u00b0C during the day<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row use_custom_gutter=”on” gutter_width=”2″ _builder_version=”4.22.1″ max_width=”800px” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.22.1″ text_font_size=”18px” hover_enabled=”0″ global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

Far from the free climbing, progress here requires method and imagination. Using classic pitons, bird beaks,\u00a0cams<\/em> and ladders, Marcin and Pawe\u0142 employ all their artifices to ascend through the systems of cracks clogged with sand and rocks.<\/span><\/p>\n

As night falls, they must then ascend the portaledge, set up the bivouac on a narrow terrace, struggle to light the gasoline stove, and melt the scant snow willing to warm up.<\/span><\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row use_custom_gutter=”on” gutter_width=”2″ _builder_version=”4.22.1″ width=”100%” max_width=”1200px” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/marcin-tomaszewski-17.jpg” title_text=”marcin-tomaszewski-17″ show_in_lightbox=”on” show_bottom_space=”off” align=”center” _builder_version=”4.22.1″ width=”100%” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.22.1″ text_font=”Merriweather|900|||||||” text_font_size=”16″ custom_margin=”||||false|false” hover_enabled=”0″ border_style=”solid” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

Five-star bivouac. \u00a9Coll.Tomaszewski\/Haldas<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row use_custom_gutter=”on” gutter_width=”2″ _builder_version=”4.22.1″ width=”100%” max_width=”1200px” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/polonais-moose-tooth-alaska.jpg” title_text=”polonais-moose-tooth-alaska” show_in_lightbox=”on” show_bottom_space=”off” align=”center” force_fullwidth=”on” _builder_version=”4.22.1″ global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.22.1″ text_font=”Merriweather|900|||||||” text_font_size=”16″ custom_margin=”||||false|false” border_style=”solid” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}”]

\u00a9Coll.Tomaszewski\/Haldas<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_margin=”-1px|auto||auto||” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=”#000000″ quote_icon_background_color=”#ffffff” _builder_version=”4.22.1″ body_font=”Oswald|700||on|||||” body_text_align=”center” body_text_color=”#000000″ body_font_size=”30″ use_background_color=”off” custom_margin=”||||false|false” hover_enabled=”0″ saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

if I lose contact with my toes or fingers
no matter where I am
I stop<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row use_custom_gutter=”on” gutter_width=”2″ _builder_version=”4.22.1″ max_width=”800px” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.22.1″ text_font_size=”18px” hover_enabled=”0″ global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

The cold is always lying in ambush, never letting them out of its grasp. Temperatures approach -30\u00b0C during the day. Tomaszsewski explains: ” It was vital to tuck the removed gloves under one’s jacket so that they did not turn into an icicle in an instant. As on my recent expeditions, I applied the principle that if I lose contact with my toes or fingers I stop where I am and warm up as long as it takes. Thanks to this method, during my last expeditions both I and my partners did not suffer even the slightest frostbite.”<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row use_custom_gutter=”on” gutter_width=”2″ _builder_version=”4.22.1″ width=”100%” max_width=”1200px” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/marcin-tomaszewski-20.jpg” title_text=”marcin-tomaszewski-20″ show_in_lightbox=”on” show_bottom_space=”off” align=”center” _builder_version=”4.22.1″ width=”100%” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.22.1″ text_font=”Merriweather|900|||||||” text_font_size=”16″ custom_margin=”||||false|false” hover_enabled=”0″ border_style=”solid” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

The belayer’s battle. \u00a9Coll.Tomaszewski\/Haldas<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_margin=”-1px|auto||auto||” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=”#000000″ quote_icon_background_color=”#ffffff” _builder_version=”4.22.1″ body_font=”Oswald|700||on|||||” body_text_align=”center” body_text_color=”#000000″ body_font_size=”30″ use_background_color=”off” custom_margin=”||||false|false” hover_enabled=”0″ saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

Two rooms
two moods<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=”1_2,1_2″ use_custom_gutter=”on” gutter_width=”2″ _builder_version=”4.22.1″ width=”100%” max_width=”1200px” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”1_2″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/marcin-tomaszewski-12.jpg” title_text=”marcin-tomaszewski-12″ show_in_lightbox=”on” show_bottom_space=”off” align=”center” _builder_version=”4.22.1″ width=”100%” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.22.1″ text_font=”Merriweather|900|||||||” text_font_size=”16″ custom_margin=”||||false|false” hover_enabled=”0″ border_style=”solid” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

Far from free climbing. \u00a9Coll.Tomaszewski\/Haldas<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=”1_2″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.22.1″ text_font_size=”18px” hover_enabled=”0″ global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

Constantly, the team has to contend with a series of snowfalls, which in turn release deluge after deluge of powder – the infamous spindrifts<\/em>. The two friends alternate their positions at the head of the rope. In the fury of the elements, the question arises as to whether the leader or the belayer is in the best position.<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.22.1″ text_font_size=”18px” hover_enabled=”0″ global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

The belayer, motionless, lets himself be enveloped in winter’s frozen embrace. The longer it goes on, the frostier his down jacket becomes. From time to time, he raises his head to look at his leader, revealing a face that seems to have lost its blood.<\/p>\n

A few rope lengths away, the leader no longer feels the cold, but has to fight hand-to-hand with the wall. Meter by meter, point by point, he advances without looking back. Two rooms, two moods.<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_margin=”-1px|auto||auto||” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=”#000000″ quote_icon_background_color=”#ffffff” _builder_version=”4.22.1″ body_font=”Oswald|700||on|||||” body_text_align=”center” body_text_color=”#000000″ body_font_size=”30″ use_background_color=”off” custom_margin=”||||false|false” hover_enabled=”0″ saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

A final breakthrough<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”800px” custom_margin=”||||false|false” custom_padding=”0|0px||0px|false|false” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.22.1″ text_font_size=”18px” hover_enabled=”0″ global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

And so, halfway between a street fight and trench warfare, the Poles continued their breakthrough. On the tenth day, March 8, 2024, on the occasion of International Women’s Rights Day, they decided to lead a final assault to the summit.<\/p>\n

“On that day the weather was on our side. Over the course of six full pitches we tackled both aid and free climbing parts, there was some firn and snow and finally… the summit. Pawe\u0142 got there first. I reached my partner, who was sitting smiling in the snow. – You can’t get any higher! \u2013 He shouted. All around us there were the Alaskan mountains below, empty at this time of year. It was dazzling !<\/span><\/em>” reports Marcin.<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row use_custom_gutter=”on” gutter_width=”2″ _builder_version=”4.22.1″ width=”100%” max_width=”1200px” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/marcin-tomaszewski-19.jpg” title_text=”marcin-tomaszewski-19″ show_in_lightbox=”on” show_bottom_space=”off” align=”center” _builder_version=”4.22.1″ width=”100%” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.22.1″ text_font=”Merriweather|900|||||||” text_font_size=”16″ custom_margin=”||||false|false” hover_enabled=”0″ border_style=”solid” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

The view of the surrounding faces. \u00a9Coll.Tomaszewski\/Haldas<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”800px” custom_margin=”||||false|false” custom_padding=”0|0px||0px|false|false” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.22.1″ text_font_size=”18px” hover_enabled=”0″ global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

Sound the victory bell for the duo! On their return from the expedition, the two Poles meet in a local bar to drink beer and eat pizza, in order to make up for the deficiencies imposed by the freeze-dried food. Afterwards, Marcin Tomaszewski admits: ” we were very lucky, but I also know that this luck wouldn’t have worked if we hadn’t put all our heart into this climb.”<\/em><\/p>\n

For him, the success of this new route – which he considers harder than the one opened up in Greenland – is down to a fine blend of determination, technique and, it has to be said, a touch of naivety. A method he associates with a period of life seemingly far removed from mountaineering: childhood.<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row use_custom_gutter=”on” gutter_width=”2″ _builder_version=”4.22.1″ width=”100%” max_width=”1200px” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/marcin-tomaszewski-15.jpg” title_text=”marcin-tomaszewski-15″ show_in_lightbox=”on” show_bottom_space=”off” align=”center” _builder_version=”4.22.1″ width=”100%” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.22.1″ text_font=”Merriweather|900|||||||” text_font_size=”16″ custom_margin=”||||false|false” hover_enabled=”0″ border_style=”solid” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

The duo at the top.\u00a0\u00a9Coll.Tomaszewski\/Haldas<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_margin=”-1px|auto||auto||” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=”#000000″ quote_icon_background_color=”#ffffff” _builder_version=”4.22.1″ body_font=”Oswald|700||on|||||” body_text_align=”center” body_text_color=”#000000″ body_font_size=”30″ use_background_color=”off” custom_margin=”||||false|false” hover_enabled=”0″ saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

The childhood method<\/span><\/p>\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”800px” custom_margin=”||||false|false” custom_padding=”0|0px|0px|0px|false|false” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.22.1″ text_font_size=”18px” hover_enabled=”0″ global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

At the end of his account, the Pole explains : ” Moments like this confirm to me how important it is to be aware, to wisely lead your human reflexes and thoughts astray just to look at the world from a different angle. You have to go into the wall without looking down, just like a child who, fighting a fear of heights high on a ladder, doesn’t look under their feet. The longer I climb, the more I have humility and affection for people as well as self-confidence, which is also important in our human relationships. I smile more often and am able to give more of myself to loved ones and beyond. To what else? I don’t know yet, but I will certainly find out. “<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_margin=”-1px|auto||auto||” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=”#000000″ quote_icon_background_color=”#ffffff” _builder_version=”4.22.1″ body_font=”Oswald|700||on|||||” body_text_align=”center” body_text_color=”#000000″ body_font_size=”30″ use_background_color=”off” custom_margin=”||||false|false” hover_enabled=”0″ saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

harder, purer<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”800px” custom_margin=”||||false|false” custom_padding=”0|0px|0px|0px|false|false” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.22.1″ text_font_size=”18px” hover_enabled=”0″ global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

Half-warrior, half-child, half-eyeti, Marcin Tomaszewski is definitely polymorphous. His latest feat with Pawel Haldas, with whom he forms a fascinating team, bears witness to this. A fascination for the method, the determination and the characters, the antithesis of the marketable mountain found in our Alps. A style that disregards the faster, lighter, more Instagrammable to focus solely on the essential: the hardest and purest.<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]\n\n\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

In Alaska’s Denali National Park, from February 28th to March 8th, 2024,…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":9987,"featured_media":60492,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"[et_pb_section fb_built=\"1\" _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" custom_padding=\"4px||0px||false|false\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" background_size=\"initial\" background_position=\"top_left\" background_repeat=\"repeat\" custom_padding=\"11px|||||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" header_font=\"|on|||\" header_2_line_height=\"1.2em\" text_orientation=\"center\" module_alignment=\"center\" header_font_size_tablet=\"\" header_font_size_phone=\"16px\" header_font_size_last_edited=\"on|desktop\" header_2_font_size_tablet=\"\" header_2_font_size_phone=\"20px\" header_2_font_size_last_edited=\"on|phone\" text_orientation_tablet=\"center\" text_orientation_phone=\"left\" text_orientation_last_edited=\"on|desktop\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n

Dans le parc national du Denali, en Alaska,<\/strong> du<\/strong>\u00a028 f\u00e9vrier au 08 mars <\/strong>2024, <\/strong>les Polonais Pawel Haldas et Marcin Tomaszewski ont trac\u00e9 une nouvelle voie dans l'immense face sud du Moose's Tooth. Apr\u00e8s dix jours d'ascension, la cord\u00e9e baptise la ligne Cold War (980 m, A3, M5+),<\/em> en r\u00e9f\u00e9rence au long combat men\u00e9 contre les temp\u00e9ratures glaciales et les gelures, tout au long de la progression.\u00a0<\/strong><\/h2>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=\"1\" _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" custom_margin=\"0px||||false|false\" custom_margin_tablet=\"0px||||false|false\" custom_margin_phone=\"0px||||false|false\" custom_margin_last_edited=\"on|phone\" custom_padding=\"1px||||false|false\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" max_width=\"800px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" text_font_size=\"18px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n
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A<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\nller grimper en Alaska en plein hiver, en voila une dr\u00f4le d'id\u00e9e ! C'est pourtant cette m\u00eame id\u00e9e qui a travers\u00e9 les esprits de Pawel Haldas<\/strong> et Marcin Tomaszewski<\/strong>, dit \"Yeti\"<\/strong>, au moment de choisir leurs futures vacances. Mais pas de panique, les deux Polonais sont, au bas mot, ce qu'on appelle par chez nous des alpinistes aguerris. Le regard noir et les traits de visages coup\u00e9s au couteau, on a plus affaire \u00e0 des guerriers du piolet qu'\u00e0 des grimpeurs de couenne. Habitu\u00e9s des \u00ab terrains difficiles, techniques et chronophages \u00bb<\/em>, ils sont ici dans leur domaine de pr\u00e9dilection.\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"1200px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/marcin-tomaszewski-22.jpg\" title_text=\"marcin-tomaszewski-22\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" width=\"100%\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nMarcin Tomaszewski et Pawel Haldas en pr\u00e9paration d'exp\u00e9. \u00a9Coll.Tomaszewski\/Haldas\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" max_width=\"800px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" text_font_size=\"18px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nEn r\u00e9alisant cette premi\u00e8re hivernale sur une des dents du massif du Moose's Tooth,<\/strong> la cord\u00e9e marque \u00e0 coup s\u00fbr une nouvelle ascension majeure dans le monde des big wall. D'ailleurs, ce nouveau coup d'\u00e9clat n'est pas leur premier tour de force. L'ann\u00e9e derni\u00e8re, en f\u00e9vrier 2023<\/strong>, ils ouvraient \"FRAM\" (700 m, A3, M5)<\/strong>, <\/em>une nouvelle voie sur la c\u00f4te ouest du Groenland, alliant exploration et engagement<\/strong><\/a>. Avec cette r\u00e9alisation, ils accomplissaient ainsi l'exploit d'\u00eatre les premiers \u00e0 grimper une paroi d\u2019une telle ampleur au Groenland pendant la p\u00e9riode hivernale.\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_margin=\"-1px|auto||auto||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=\"#000000\" quote_icon_background_color=\"#ffffff\" _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" body_font=\"Oswald|700||on|||||\" body_text_align=\"center\" body_text_color=\"#000000\" body_font_size=\"30\" use_background_color=\"off\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nQuand s'ouvrir \u00e0 l'aventure\nrime avec gelures\n\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=\"1_2,1_2\" use_custom_gutter=\"on\" gutter_width=\"2\" _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" width=\"100%\" max_width=\"1200px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"1_2\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/marcin-tomaszewski-9.jpg\" title_text=\"marcin-tomaszewski-9\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" width=\"100%\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nLe trac\u00e9 de Cold War<\/em> \u00a9Coll.Tomaszewski\/Haldas\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=\"1_2\" _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" _module_preset=\"default\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" text_font_size=\"18px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nBien qu'il soit \u00e0 quelques milliers de kilom\u00e8tre d'\u00e9cart, l'objectif de cette ann\u00e9e n'\u00e9tait, sur le papier, pas si diff\u00e9rent. Une grande face de rocher pourri, pas beaucoup d'informations sur le web et du froid, beaucoup de froid. Comme l'explique Marcin Tomaszewski sur son compte Facebook, \"les m\u00e9dias sont rest\u00e9s silencieux sur le sujet des ascensions hivernales de bigwall en Alaska. Nous avons donc d\u00e9cid\u00e9 de nous laisser aller, de prendre les choses avec l\u00e9g\u00e8ret\u00e9 et de ne pas nous concentrer l\u00e0-dessus mais simplement de nous ouvrir \u00e0 l'aventure.\"\u00a0<\/em>\n\nS'ouvrir \u00e0 l'aventure, voila une bien belle philosophie. Sauf qu'ici, l'aventure rime avec gelures. Bizarrement, tout de suite, la libert\u00e9 de pouvoir choisir sa ligne comme on le souhaite - que Marcin compare \u00e0 celle de pouvoir choisir un cookie chez le confiseur quand il \u00e9tait enfant - devient beaucoup moins l\u00e9g\u00e8re. Ne vous fiez pas au ton d\u00e9tach\u00e9 du compte rendu, une chose est s\u00fbre, dans cette face Sud du Moose's Tooth, l'affaire est on ne peut plus s\u00e9rieuse.\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_margin=\"-1px|auto||auto||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=\"#000000\" quote_icon_background_color=\"#ffffff\" _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" body_font=\"Oswald|700||on|||||\" body_text_align=\"center\" body_text_color=\"#000000\" body_font_size=\"30\" use_background_color=\"off\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nUn combat avec\nl'hiver et la paroi\n\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row use_custom_gutter=\"on\" gutter_width=\"2\" _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" max_width=\"800px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" text_font_size=\"18px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nD\u00e8s le premier matin, sur l'approche, le ton est donn\u00e9. Tomaszewski raconte : \"nous avons r\u00e9gl\u00e9 le r\u00e9veil \u00e0 6 heures, quitt\u00e9 la tente d'un pas vif \u00e0 7 heures, avant d'y revenir d'un pas encore plus vif moins d'une minute plus tard ! Nous sommes ensuite retourn\u00e9s dans nos sacs de couchage encore chaud, m\u00eame ici il faisait vraiment froid.\"<\/em>\n\nLe r\u00e9veil est d\u00e9cal\u00e9 pour attendre que les temp\u00e9ratures soient plus cl\u00e9mentes. Les deux Polonais prennent ensuite une journ\u00e9e enti\u00e8re pour remonter, \u00e9normes sac de hissage sur le dos, les pentes de neige \u00e0 60\/70\u00b0 qui marquent le d\u00e9but de la voie. Dans la foul\u00e9e, le premier bivouac en portaledge est install\u00e9.\n\nD\u00e8s le lendemain, ils attaquent les premi\u00e8res longueurs. Selon Marcin, c'est \u00e0 ce moment l\u00e0 que \"le combat avec l'hiver et, secondairement avec la paroi, a commenc\u00e9\".\u00a0<\/em>\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row use_custom_gutter=\"on\" gutter_width=\"2\" _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" width=\"100%\" max_width=\"1200px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/marcin-tomaszewski-16.jpg\" title_text=\"marcin-tomaszewski-16\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" width=\"100%\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nHissage et remont\u00e9e sur corde fixe dans le froid. \u00a9Coll.Tomaszewski\/Haldas\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_margin=\"-1px|auto||auto||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=\"#000000\" quote_icon_background_color=\"#ffffff\" _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" body_font=\"Oswald|700||on|||||\" body_text_align=\"center\" body_text_color=\"#000000\" body_font_size=\"30\" use_background_color=\"off\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nLes temp\u00e9ratures fr\u00f4lent les -30\u00b0C\n\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row use_custom_gutter=\"on\" gutter_width=\"2\" _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" max_width=\"800px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" text_font_size=\"18px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nBien loin du grand libre<\/em>, avancer ici requiert m\u00e9thode et imagination. Pitons classiques, \"bird beaks\", <\/em>coinceurs m\u00e9caniques, \u00e9triers, Marcin et Pawel usent de tous leurs artifices pour se hisser \u00e0 travers les syst\u00e8mes de fissures bouch\u00e9es par le sable et les rochers.\n\n\u00c0 la tomb\u00e9e de la nuit, il faut ensuite remonter le portaledge, installer le bivouac sur une terrasse \u00e9troite, allumer difficilement le r\u00e9chaud \u00e0 essence et faire fondre le peu neige qui consent \u00e0 se r\u00e9chauffer.\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row use_custom_gutter=\"on\" gutter_width=\"2\" _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" width=\"100%\" max_width=\"1200px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/marcin-tomaszewski-17.jpg\" title_text=\"marcin-tomaszewski-17\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" width=\"100%\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nBivouac cinq \u00e9toiles. \u00a9Coll.Tomaszewski\/Haldas\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row use_custom_gutter=\"on\" gutter_width=\"2\" _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" width=\"100%\" max_width=\"1200px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/polonais-moose-tooth-alaska.jpg\" title_text=\"polonais-moose-tooth-alaska\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" force_fullwidth=\"on\" _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\n\u00a9Coll.Tomaszewski\/Haldas\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_margin=\"-1px|auto||auto||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=\"#000000\" quote_icon_background_color=\"#ffffff\" _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" body_font=\"Oswald|700||on|||||\" body_text_align=\"center\" body_text_color=\"#000000\" body_font_size=\"30\" use_background_color=\"off\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nsi je perds le contact avec mes orteils ou mes doigts\nqu'importe o\u00f9 je suis\nje m'arr\u00eate\n\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row use_custom_gutter=\"on\" gutter_width=\"2\" _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" max_width=\"800px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" text_font_size=\"18px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nLe froid est toujours en embuscade, il ne les l\u00e2che pas d'une semelle. Les temp\u00e9ratures fr\u00f4lent les -30\u00b0C en journ\u00e9e. Tomaszsewski d\u00e9veloppe : \"Il<\/em> \u00e9tait vital de t<\/em>oujours g<\/em>arder une paire de gants dans la veste pour ne pas qu'ils se transforment en gla\u00e7ons. Chaque fois que j'arrivais \u00e0 r\u00e9tablir la circulation dans mes mains, je me disais \"Nous avons r\u00e9ussi une fois de plus\". Comme lors de mes pr\u00e9c\u00e9dentes exp\u00e9ditions, j'ai appliqu\u00e9 le principe selon lequel si je perds le contact avec mes orteils ou mes doigts, qu'importe o\u00f9 je suis, je m'arr\u00eate et je me r\u00e9chauffe aussi longtemps que n\u00e9cessaire. C'est gr\u00e2ce \u00e0 cette m\u00e9thode que nous n'avons pas souffert de gelures.\"<\/em>\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row use_custom_gutter=\"on\" gutter_width=\"2\" _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" width=\"100%\" max_width=\"1200px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/marcin-tomaszewski-20.jpg\" title_text=\"marcin-tomaszewski-20\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" width=\"100%\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nLe combat de l'assureur. \u00a9Coll.Tomaszewski\/Haldas\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_margin=\"-1px|auto||auto||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=\"#000000\" quote_icon_background_color=\"#ffffff\" _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" body_font=\"Oswald|700||on|||||\" body_text_align=\"center\" body_text_color=\"#000000\" body_font_size=\"30\" use_background_color=\"off\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nDeux salles\nDeux ambiances\n\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=\"1_2,1_2\" use_custom_gutter=\"on\" gutter_width=\"2\" _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" width=\"100%\" max_width=\"1200px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"1_2\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/marcin-tomaszewski-12.jpg\" title_text=\"marcin-tomaszewski-12\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" width=\"100%\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nDu grand libre. \u00a9Coll.Tomaszewski\/Haldas\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=\"1_2\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" text_font_size=\"18px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nDe mani\u00e8re incessante, la cord\u00e9e doit \u00e9galement affronter des chutes de neige en s\u00e9rie, qui lib\u00e8rent elles m\u00eame des d\u00e9luges de poudreuse, les fameux spindrifts. <\/em>Tour \u00e0 tour, les deux amis alternent leur position en t\u00eate de cord\u00e9e. Dans la fureur des \u00e9l\u00e9ments, une question pointe le bout de son nez, qui du leader ou de l'assureur est le mieux loti ?\n\n[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" text_font_size=\"18px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nL'assureur, immobile, se laisse envelopper dans l'\u00e9treinte glac\u00e9 de l'hiver. Plus la longueur avance, plus sa doudoune se recouvre de givre. De temps en temps, il l\u00e8ve la t\u00eate pour regarder son leader et laisse entrevoir un visage que le sang semble avoir quitt\u00e9.\n\nA quelques brass\u00e9es de corde, le leader, lui, ne ressent plus le froid mais doit se battre au corps \u00e0 corps avec la paroi. M\u00e8tre par m\u00e8tre, point par point, il avance sans se retourner. Deux salles, deux ambiances.\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_margin=\"-1px|auto||auto||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=\"#000000\" quote_icon_background_color=\"#ffffff\" _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" body_font=\"Oswald|700||on|||||\" body_text_align=\"center\" body_text_color=\"#000000\" body_font_size=\"30\" use_background_color=\"off\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nUne ultime perc\u00e9e\n\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" custom_padding=\"0|0px||0px|false|false\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" text_font_size=\"18px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nAinsi, \u00e0 mi-chemin entre un combat de rue et une guerre de tranch\u00e9es, les Polonais continuent de mener leur perc\u00e9e. Au dixi\u00e8me jour, le 8 mars 2024, profitant de la journ\u00e9e internationale des droits des femmes, ils d\u00e9cident de mener un ultime assaut jusqu'au sommet.\n\n\"Ce jour-l\u00e0, la m\u00e9t\u00e9o \u00e9tait de notre c\u00f4t\u00e9. Sur six longueurs compl\u00e8tes, nous avons fait un peu d'artif, un peu de libre, de n\u00e9v\u00e9 et de neige et enfin... le sommet. Pawe\u0142 y est arriv\u00e9 en premier. Je l'ai rejoint au soleil et je me suis assis en souriant dans la neige. Tout autour de nous, il y avait des montagnes en contrebas, vides \u00e0 cette p\u00e9riode de l'ann\u00e9e. C'\u00e9tait \u00e9blouissant !\", <\/em>rapporte Marcin.\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row use_custom_gutter=\"on\" gutter_width=\"2\" _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" width=\"100%\" max_width=\"1200px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/marcin-tomaszewski-19.jpg\" title_text=\"marcin-tomaszewski-19\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" width=\"100%\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nLa vue sur les faces environnantes. \u00a9Coll.Tomaszewski\/Haldas\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" custom_padding=\"0|0px||0px|false|false\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" text_font_size=\"18px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nQu'on sonne le clairon de la victoire pour le duo ! Au retour de cette exp\u00e9dition, les deux Polonais se retrouvent dans un bar local pour boire de la bi\u00e8re et manger des pizzas, en vue de rattraper les carences impos\u00e9es par les lyophilis\u00e9s. Apr\u00e8s coup, Marcin Tomaszewski admet : \"nous avons eu beaucoup de chance, mais je sais aussi que cette chance n'aurait pas fonctionn\u00e9 si nous n'avions pas mis tout notre c\u0153ur dans cette ascension.\" <\/em>\n\nPour lui, si cette nouvelle voie - qu'il consid\u00e8re plus dure que celle ouverte au Groenland - se solde par une nouvelle r\u00e9ussite, c'est bien gr\u00e2ce \u00e0 un fin m\u00e9lange de d\u00e9termination, de technique et, il faut le dire, un brin de na\u00efvet\u00e9. Une m\u00e9thode qu'il associe \u00e0 une p\u00e9riode de la vie en apparence bien \u00e9loign\u00e9e de l'alpinisme : l'enfance.<\/em>\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row use_custom_gutter=\"on\" gutter_width=\"2\" _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" width=\"100%\" max_width=\"1200px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/marcin-tomaszewski-15.jpg\" title_text=\"marcin-tomaszewski-15\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" width=\"100%\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nLe duo au sommet. \u00a9Coll.Tomaszewski\/Haldas\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_margin=\"-1px|auto||auto||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=\"#000000\" quote_icon_background_color=\"#ffffff\" _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" body_font=\"Oswald|700||on|||||\" body_text_align=\"center\" body_text_color=\"#000000\" body_font_size=\"30\" use_background_color=\"off\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nLa m\u00e9thode de l'enfance\n\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" custom_padding=\"0|0px|0px|0px|false|false\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" text_font_size=\"18px\" hover_enabled=\"0\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" sticky_enabled=\"0\"]\n\n\u00c0 la fin de son compte rendu, le Polonais explicite : \"Des moments comme celui-ci me confirment combien il est important d'\u00eatre conscient, de diriger judicieusement ses r\u00e9flexes et ses pens\u00e9es pour regarder le monde sous un angle diff\u00e9rent. Il faut entrer dans la paroi sans regarder en bas, tout comme un enfant qui, luttant contre la peur du vide en haut d'une \u00e9chelle, ne regarde pas sous ses pieds. <\/em>Plus je grimpe, plus j'ai d'humilit\u00e9 et d'affection pour les gens et de la confiance en moi. Je souris plus souvent et je suis capable de donner plus de moi-m\u00eame \u00e0 mes proches et au-del\u00e0. Quelle est la suite ? Je ne sais pas encore, mais je vais certainement le d\u00e9couvrir.\"<\/em>\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_margin=\"-1px|auto||auto||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=\"#000000\" quote_icon_background_color=\"#ffffff\" _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" body_font=\"Oswald|700||on|||||\" body_text_align=\"center\" body_text_color=\"#000000\" body_font_size=\"30\" use_background_color=\"off\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nPlus dur, Plus pur\n\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" custom_padding=\"0|0px|0px|0px|false|false\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" text_font_size=\"18px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nMi-guerrier, mi-enfant, mi-yeti, Marcin Tomaszewski est d\u00e9cid\u00e9ment polymorphe. En t\u00e9moigne l'exploit qu'il vient de r\u00e9aliser avec Pawel Haldas, avec qui il forme une cord\u00e9e fascinante. Fascination pour la m\u00e9thode, la d\u00e9termination et les personnages, aux antipodes de la montagne commercialisable que l'on retrouve dans nos Alpes. Un style qui fait fi du plus vite, plus l\u00e9ger, plus instagramable<\/em> pour se concentrer uniquement sur l'essentiel : le plus dur<\/em> et le plus pur.<\/em>\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[20,11],"tags":[286],"class_list":["post-60452","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-mountaineering","category-world","tag-alaska"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/60452","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/9987"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=60452"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/60452\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":60481,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/60452\/revisions\/60481"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/60492"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=60452"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=60452"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=60452"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}