{"id":60838,"date":"2024-07-17T09:14:36","date_gmt":"2024-07-15T14:56:32","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/will-gadd-prophete-lucide-de-la-glace\/"},"modified":"2024-07-17T10:31:48","modified_gmt":"2024-07-17T08:31:48","slug":"will-gadd-prophete-lucide-de-la-glace","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/will-gadd-prophete-lucide-de-la-glace\/","title":{"rendered":"Will Gadd, lucid prophet of ice climbing"},"content":{"rendered":"\n[et_pb_section fb_built=”1″ _builder_version=”4.22.1″ custom_margin=”||||false|false” custom_padding=”4px||0px||false|false” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” custom_padding=”11px|||||” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ header_font=”|on|||” header_2_line_height=”1.2em” text_orientation=”center” module_alignment=”center” hover_enabled=”0″ header_font_size_tablet=”” header_font_size_phone=”16px” header_font_size_last_edited=”on|desktop” header_2_font_size_tablet=”” header_2_font_size_phone=”20px” header_2_font_size_last_edited=”on|phone” text_orientation_tablet=”center” text_orientation_phone=”left” text_orientation_last_edited=”on|desktop” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

He’s climbed some of the most beautiful icefalls on the planet: Will Gaff is one of those who revolutionized ice and mixed climbing, including the first ascent of Niagara Falls and Hekmcken Falls, the great stalactite-filled overhang in British Columbia. Meet up with Will Gadd in Chamonix, at the Arc’teryx Alpine Academy, where he was happy to pass on his passion. <\/strong><\/strong><\/h2>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=”1″ _builder_version=”4.22.1″ custom_margin=”0px||||false|false” custom_margin_tablet=”0px||||false|false” custom_margin_phone=”0px||||false|false” custom_margin_last_edited=”on|phone” custom_padding=”1px||||false|false” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.22.1″ max_width=”800px” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font_size=”18px” hover_enabled=”0″ header_3_font_size_tablet=”” header_3_font_size_phone=”20px” header_3_font_size_last_edited=”on|phone” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

I<\/span>t was a long time ago. A piece of ice dangled in the Freissini\u00e8res valley (France). A Canadian, who had come for the Rassemblement de glaciairistes<\/em>\u00a0in Argenti\u00e8re-la-bess\u00e9e, decided to take a look. He climbs up the big overhang equipped with spits, then, with a great movement, ends up anchoring an ice axe in the ice, which he joins in a great split. We were stunned: Will Gadd had just climbed Double Scotch, a futuristic M7+ (?) at the time.<\/p>\n

Twenty-five years later, a series of coincidences, not the least of which is that we’re still in one piece, bring us together on the same train from Montenvers to Chamonix. And I show Will Gadd the photo (below) of Double Scotch I took of him. His passion for ice and mixed is intact. It’s no coincidence that we’re on the same train as the Arc’teryx Alpine Academy trainees, who have come to try their hand at ice climbing with one of its prophets.<\/p>\n

On this day, as on the rest of the year, Will Gadd shares his passion on his social medias. For the gestures that are so important, and so neglected in ice: ice axe planting, foot placement, body positioning. And then there’s safety and risk management, on which Will Gadd shares his experience. Mountains, ice and mixed are dangerous sports, he reminds us. As is paragliding, for which he once held a distance record. It’s up to us to learn what all these activities have in common, which is their environment, he explains, the aerology, the snow cover, and so on.<\/p>\n

Will Gadd is always passionate about what he does, but he’s equally passionate about teaching. With rare humility, he takes his time to pass on his knowledge. His smile lights up his wrinkles, making us forget the rainy Mer de Glace. And reminds us that lugging pieces of junk up the mountain is all about sharing a moment with friends.<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.22.1″ max_width=”800px” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font_size=”18px” hover_enabled=”0″ header_3_font_size_tablet=”” header_3_font_size_phone=”20px” header_3_font_size_last_edited=”on|phone” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

You’ve done a lot in the mountains over the past 25 years. What’s your best memory of ice climbing?<\/b><\/h3>\n

Will Gadd<\/strong> : Every route is a product of its time, moments in history. You showed me this photo of Double Scotch in Freissini\u00e8res, in 1999, and it reminded me of that time… We’d done something really cool, it was a beautiful moment, and I’ve had a few like that in my life. I’m very lucky. Perhaps one of the most memorable moments was the route I did with Jeff Lowe in Colorado: Deep Throat in Glennwood Canyon. A route that’s rarely repeated. Then I discovered Helmcken Falls, a really striking area. To discover that this unique place existed was a dream!<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/jocelynchavy_ICE-2059.jpg” title_text=”jocelynchavy_ICE-2059″ _builder_version=”4.24.2″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font=”Merriweather|900|||||||” text_font_size=”16″ custom_margin=”-28px||||false|false” hover_enabled=”0″ border_style=”solid” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

Will Gadd’s ascent on the Double Scotch hanging ice cube in Freissini\u00e8res (FR) in the late 90’s. \u00a9Jocelyn Chavy<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”800px” custom_margin=”||||false|false” custom_padding=”0|0px||0px|false|false” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font_size=”18px” hover_enabled=”0″ header_3_font_size_tablet=”” header_3_font_size_phone=”20px” header_3_font_size_last_edited=”on|phone” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

At the time, in the late 2000s, no one had ever climber Helmcken Falls?<\/strong><\/h3>\n

W.G.<\/strong> : No, everyone thought I was crazy, that it was stupid, that it didn’t work, that it wasn’t possible to climb it. But it was the same with mixed climbing: at first, everyone said that it was stupid and that you couldn’t use ice axes on rocks. Now it seems normal, but not then.<\/p>\n

It’s like Octopussy<\/em>, I just thought it looked really cool. That’s what mixed climbing is all about: you climb the obstacles! That’s what I wanted to do. Stalactites forever! So, yes, it’s really dangerous, but it’s also really beautiful. As ice climbers, or even mountaineers in general, we learn to operate in this environment. Not in complete safety, but with a reasonable margin. And we don’t do these activities because they’re safe, we do them because they mean something to us and are important. We think the risk is worth it.<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row use_custom_gutter=”on” gutter_width=”2″ _builder_version=”4.22.1″ width=”100%” max_width=”1200px” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/SI201402180133_hires_jpeg_24bit_rgb.jpg” title_text=”Will Gadd – Action” show_in_lightbox=”on” show_bottom_space=”off” align=”center” _builder_version=”4.24.2″ width=”100%” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font=”Merriweather|900|||||||” text_font_size=”16″ custom_margin=”||||false|false” hover_enabled=”0″ border_style=”solid” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

Will Gadd in the Spray On wall in 2014, opened with Tim Emmett in 2010, in the incredible Helmcken Falls overflow.\u00a0\u00a9Christian Pondella \/ Red Bull Content Pool<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=”1_2,1_2″ use_custom_gutter=”on” gutter_width=”2″ _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”1200px” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”1_2″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font_size=”18px” hover_enabled=”0″ header_3_font_size_tablet=”” header_3_font_size_phone=”20px” header_3_font_size_last_edited=”on|phone” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

You spend a lot of time kayaking and paragliding, as well as climbing. You even have a wrold record in paragliding…\u00a0<\/b><\/h3>\n

W.G. :\u00a0<\/strong>Yes, I’ve set the world distance record twice, with 423 km. I’ve since been beaten, but that’s good! Everything’s temporary, you just have to appreciate it.<\/p>\n

What are the similarities and differences between the sports you practice: ice climbing, paragliding, kayaking and skiing?<\/b><\/h3>\n

W.G. :\u00a0<\/strong><\/b>The interesting thing about mountain sports is to understand the environment. For paragliding, you have to understand how the atmosphere works. And it’s more or less the same thing for snow formation, the same thing that makes ice climbing possible in some places and not others, the same thing that makes rivers rise and fall and creates rivers in caves for kayaking…<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=”#000000″ quote_icon_background_color=”#ffffff” _builder_version=”4.24.2″ body_font=”Oswald|700||on|||||” body_text_align=”center” body_text_color=”#000000″ body_font_size=”30″ use_background_color=”off” custom_margin=”93px||||false|false” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}”]

the interesting thing
about mountain sports
is to understand the environment<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=”1_2″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/SI201501280014_hires_jpeg_24bit_rgb.jpg” title_text=”Will Gadd – Action” show_in_lightbox=”on” show_bottom_space=”off” align=”center” _builder_version=”4.24.2″ width=”100%” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font=”Merriweather|900|||||||” text_font_size=”16″ custom_margin=”||||false|false” hover_enabled=”0″ border_style=”solid” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

Will on Niagara Falls, the one and only ascent. \u00a9RedBull Content Pool<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”800px” custom_margin=”||||false|false” custom_padding=”0|0px||0px|false|false” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font_size=”18px” hover_enabled=”0″ header_3_font_size_tablet=”” header_3_font_size_phone=”20px” header_3_font_size_last_edited=”on|phone” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

You also said recently that you climb differently now than you did 5 years ago. What has changed?<\/span><\/b><\/h3>\n

W.G. :<\/strong>\u00a0I’ve learned! I think it’s important to study mountains. I’ve done it all my life, and I’m learning about how they work and why. So I’ve learned different techniques for my climbing, with different equipment and different ice. All this allows me to teach it to people. In the end, a lot of what I learn about ice climbing comes from teaching. Because it’s not that hard to do something, but it’s very hard to explain it to someone. That makes my understanding of what I’m teaching much deeper.<\/p>\n

I’ve seen you teach and you explain a lot about climbing movements. You explain in depth the art of ice climbing, hip movements, arm movements, what to do and what not to do. You’re really committed.<\/b><\/h3>\n

W.G.<\/strong> :\u00a0I try, yes. When I do ice climbing, I find it beautiful and enjoyable. And I want other people to have the same experience. Not just the violence and the cold. Because when I was young, ice climbing was war! I had cuts on my face, frozen hands, it was hard. And 5 years ago, I wasn’t able to explain that to people, whereas now I want them to get a good feel for this kind of climbing. I want them to understand the balance and to climb, really climb!<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row use_custom_gutter=”on” gutter_width=”2″ _builder_version=”4.22.1″ width=”100%” max_width=”1200px” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/SI201903140199_hires_jpeg_24bit_rgb_news.jpg” title_text=”Will Gadd” show_in_lightbox=”on” show_bottom_space=”off” align=”center” _builder_version=”4.24.2″ width=”100%” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font=”Merriweather|900|||||||” text_font_size=”16″ custom_margin=”||||false|false” hover_enabled=”0″ border_style=”solid” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

Will in a mill on Greenland’s glaciers. \u00a9 Christian Pondella \/ Redbull Content Pool<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_margin=”-1px|auto||auto||” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=”#000000″ quote_icon_background_color=”#ffffff” _builder_version=”4.24.2″ body_font=”Oswald|700||on|||||” body_text_align=”center” body_text_color=”#000000″ body_font_size=”30″ use_background_color=”off” custom_margin=”||||false|false” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}”]

People who have died aren’t on social medias
saying what they were doing was dangerous\u00a0<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.22.1″ max_width=”800px” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800″ global_colors_info=”{}” header_3_font_size_phone=”20px” header_3_font_size_last_edited=”on|phone”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font_size=”18px” hover_enabled=”0″ header_3_font_size_tablet=”” header_3_font_size_phone=”20px” header_3_font_size_last_edited=”on|phone” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

On your social medias, you also talk a lot about security. Why is it important for you to use your accounts for this?<\/strong><\/h3>\n

W.G.:<\/strong> I think a lot about safety, for my personal practice, because I know I do dangerous things. But I want people to be able to make the right decisions. People who have died aren’t on social medias saying that it’s dangerous, that they died because they didn’t understand the situation, because they made a small mistake that cost them their lives. So I think it’s important, especially for those who are a little older, to try and give realistic feedback on risk.<\/p>\n

Who inspires you in the mountains, and which books inspired you to take up ice climbing?<\/strong><\/h3>\n

W.G. :\u00a0<\/strong>I learned ice climbing from my father, who was also a climber. I did my first route in my garden. I’d built my own wall when I was about 12, using my mother’s kettle and a wall in thee garden. I’d taken my father’s equipment – which was obviously much too big for me. And the little ice wall fell on me! The shoes were so big that my feet came out of them. My dad was furious, looking for his stuff, and I had to tell him it was under the ice.<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_margin=”-1px|auto||auto||” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=”#000000″ quote_icon_background_color=”#ffffff” _builder_version=”4.24.2″ body_font=”Oswald|700||on|||||” body_text_align=”center” body_text_color=”#000000″ body_font_size=”30″ use_background_color=”off” custom_margin=”||||false|false” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}”]

I was lucky, i go to clmb with my heroes like jeff lowe<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.22.1″ max_width=”800px” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800″ global_colors_info=”{}” header_3_font_size_phone=”20px” header_3_font_size_last_edited=”on|phone”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font_size=”18px” hover_enabled=”0″ header_3_font_size_tablet=”” header_3_font_size_phone=”20px” header_3_font_size_last_edited=”on|phone” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

Then, when I was about 16, I really started climbing, on rock and ice, on my own. But the books by Yvon Chouinard and Jeff Lowe really influenced me. I read and read and read, as much as I could and as much as I could find on the subject. Again, it’s all about learning, and I wanted to learn! So I read everything – there were no videos or social medias back then.<\/p>\n

And then I was lucky, I got to climb with my heroes. I read Jeff Lowe’s books, then I climbed with him, the real Jeff Lowe! He was a very funny guy… By the way, here’s another example of a climber who died. Most of the people who taught me to climb are dead. And that has an impact. So to climb such things, you have to find a deep personal meaning. Otherwise, there’s no point! And you shouldn’t do it for the money – the reward lies elsewhere…<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=”2_3,1_3″ use_custom_gutter=”on” gutter_width=”2″ _builder_version=”4.22.1″ width=”100%” max_width=”1200px” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”2_3″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/jocelynchavy_willgadd-8491.jpg” title_text=”jocelynchavy_willgadd-8491″ show_in_lightbox=”on” show_bottom_space=”off” align=”center” _builder_version=”4.24.2″ width=”100%” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font=”Merriweather|900|||||||” text_font_size=”16″ custom_margin=”||||false|false” hover_enabled=”0″ border_style=”solid” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

Ice coaching by Will Gadd at the Arc’teryx Alpine Academy. \u00a9JC<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=”1_3″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/jocelynchavy_willgadd-8648.jpg” title_text=”jocelynchavy_willgadd-8648″ _builder_version=”4.24.2″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font=”Merriweather|900|||||||” text_font_size=”16″ custom_margin=”||||false|false” hover_enabled=”0″ border_style=”solid” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

Ice axe-free ascent with Will Gadd at the Arc’teryx Alpine Academy. \u00a9JC<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”800px” custom_margin=”||||false|false” custom_padding=”0|0px||0px|false|false” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font_size=”18px” hover_enabled=”0″ header_3_font_size_tablet=”” header_3_font_size_phone=”20px” header_3_font_size_last_edited=”on|phone” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

Is the reward teaching people or being in the mountains as much as possible?<\/strong><\/h3>\n

W.G.:\u00a0<\/strong>It’s both! Being out with people who want to learn. And finding ways to communicate with them… Everyone’s different, so I can teach them through humor, by being quiet, by showing, by encouraging. That’s what I see as the reward.<\/p>\n

You’ve climed with many companions. Do you dislike climbing solo?\u00a0<\/strong><\/h3>\n

W.G.:\u00a0<\/strong>I’ve done a lot of solo climbing, but I never talk about it. It’s a personal thing, I’ve never let a photographer or cameraman come along.<\/p>\n

When you watch Alex Honnold do it, are you afraid for him?\u00a0<\/strong><\/h3>\n

W.G<\/strong>. : \u00a0Yes, I don’t like watching someone do a solo – that’s why I don’t post photos or videos myself. It’s scary, you don’t know how it can end… and I find it really personal. But Alex, when you talk to him about what he’s doing, you can tell he’s put a lot of thought into it. He’s smart, he doesn’t just jump in.<\/p>\n

The funny thing about the climbing world is that we look at solo climbers as a special case, people who take too many risks. Whereas we rope climbers are much closer to a soloist than to someone who goes running every Thursday. I’ve worked on relative risks in different sports, and we’re much closer to these soloists, even if we rope up.<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=”2_3,1_3″ use_custom_gutter=”on” gutter_width=”2″ _builder_version=”4.22.1″ width=”100%” max_width=”1200px” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”2_3″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/jocelynchavy_willgadd-8604.jpg” title_text=”jocelynchavy_willgadd-8604″ show_in_lightbox=”on” show_bottom_space=”off” align=”center” _builder_version=”4.24.2″ global_colors_info=”{}” header_3_font_size_phone=”20px” header_3_font_size_last_edited=”on|phone”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font=”Merriweather|900|||||||” text_font_size=”16″ custom_margin=”||||false|false” hover_enabled=”0″ border_style=”solid” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

Lesson 1: Will Gadd’s ice axe planting at the Arc’teryx Alpine Academy. \u00a9JC<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=”1_3″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/jocelynchavy_willgadd-8487.jpg” title_text=”jocelynchavy_willgadd-8487″ show_in_lightbox=”on” show_bottom_space=”off” align=”center” _builder_version=”4.24.2″ global_colors_info=”{}” header_3_font_size_phone=”20px” header_3_font_size_last_edited=”on|phone”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font=”Merriweather|900|||||||” text_font_size=”16″ custom_margin=”||||false|false” hover_enabled=”0″ border_style=”solid” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

Never miss an opportunity to hang yourself on the ice axes at the Arc’teryx Alpine Academy. \u00a9JC<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”800px” custom_margin=”||||false|false” custom_padding=”0|0px||0px|false|false” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font_size=”18px” hover_enabled=”0″ header_3_font_size_tablet=”” header_3_font_size_phone=”20px” header_3_font_size_last_edited=”on|phone” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

Yes, you want to show that ice climbing can have serious consequences…\u00a0<\/b><\/h3>\n

W.G. :<\/strong>\u00a0I want to give people a realistic and reasonable view of all this… without scaring them! Rather, to give them a basis on which to build. If you know the gravity and the danger, you can make good decisions. But if all you see are the pretty pictures on social networks, that’s not realistic. We don’t show pictures of everyone who falls. This year, in North America, there have been more than 13 very serious soloist accidents…<\/p>\n

I think that in our outdoor communities, soloing has become normalized. When I was a young climber, soloing was something very special, very high and very big. Like: \u201cMaybe I’ll do that, one day!” And now it’s normalized, even though it’s still soloing, not easy climbing! I think we’re making normal something that should be (and remain) exceptional, something you do when you really feel capable.<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_margin=”30px|auto||auto||” custom_padding=”||65px|||” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=”#000000″ quote_icon_background_color=”#ffffff” _builder_version=”4.24.2″ body_font=”Oswald|700||on|||||” body_text_align=”center” body_text_color=”#000000″ body_font_size=”30″ use_background_color=”off” custom_margin=”||||false|false” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}”]

in our outdoor community, soloing has become normalized<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”800px” custom_margin=”||||false|false” custom_padding=”0|0px||0px|false|false” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font_size=”18px” hover_enabled=”0″ header_3_font_size_tablet=”” header_3_font_size_phone=”20px” header_3_font_size_last_edited=”on|phone” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

<\/a><\/b>About 3 years ago, a French team went to the Himalayas on an expedition, and three people died. One of the companions wrote a letter saying that those who do this are ultimately selfish because they never say they’re taking so many risks. And that they should be more honest about the risks. How do you feel about that?<\/strong><\/h3>\n

W.G.:<\/strong> Yes, I remember that terrible accident. I think she’s right: we’re not honest enough with ourselves about the risks. I think that’s also part of what I want to convey: to be honest with ourselves and with the people around us. That’s not to say that what we mountain people do is bad – and I don’t tell anyone how much risk they have to take – but I think we should have a good (better) understanding of risk. In our current culture, we don’t. Reinhold Messner said it best: in his own generation of mountaineers, 50% died. If you’re a full-time mountaineer, I think that’s pretty accurate.<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row use_custom_gutter=”on” gutter_width=”2″ _builder_version=”4.22.1″ width=”100%” max_width=”1200px” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/SI202004170109.jpg” title_text=”Will Gadd” show_in_lightbox=”on” show_bottom_space=”off” align=”center” _builder_version=”4.24.2″ width=”100%” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font=”Merriweather|900|||||||” text_font_size=”16″ custom_margin=”||||false|false” hover_enabled=”0″ border_style=”solid” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

Will Gadd in a new track on a sea stack in Donegal, Ireland, 2020. \u00a9 John Price \/ Red Bull Content Pool<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”800px” custom_margin=”||||false|false” custom_padding=”0|0px||0px|false|false” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font_size=”18px” hover_enabled=”0″ header_3_font_size_tablet=”” header_3_font_size_phone=”20px” header_3_font_size_last_edited=”on|phone” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

So how can one be honest with itself?\u00a0<\/span><\/b><\/h3>\n

W.G. :<\/b> I think it’s important to know what you’re doing when you put yourself out there, so that you can make better decisions. When you look at the old guides, they crossed the danger line very carefully.<\/p>\n

Or when you go to NIagara Falls, for example! That’s just as dangerous…<\/b><\/i><\/h3>\n

W.G.:\u00a0<\/strong>Yes, but I don’t have the solution: what I do is dangerous. But this area is one of the coolest… It’s huge, it’s noisy, the power of the water is incredible. I go out there and work very hard to make sure that the main danger lies only with me, and not with the people filming or photographing me. If I make a mistake and kill myself, it’s me, but I don’t want to take anyone else down with me. I have to be very careful, and that’s what matters most to me. I worked for two years on this climb, to understand how the water rises and falls and so on.<\/p>\n

A lot of what I do in the mountains involves the same risks, but I don’t spend two years working on it. It’s complicated… You can’t prepare for all the hazards of an entire mountain either.<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_margin=”-1px|auto||auto||” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=”#000000″ quote_icon_background_color=”#ffffff” _builder_version=”4.24.2″ body_font=”Oswald|700||on|||||” body_text_align=”center” body_text_color=”#000000″ body_font_size=”30″ use_background_color=”off” custom_margin=”||||false|false” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}”]

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Nous need to share our stories because it’s in the mountain
that global warming is the most obvious and blatant<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”800px” custom_margin=”||||false|false” custom_padding=”0|0px||0px|false|false” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font_size=”18px” custom_padding=”||1px|||” hover_enabled=”0″ header_3_font_size_tablet=”” header_3_font_size_phone=”20px” header_3_font_size_last_edited=”on|phone” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

In France, ice climbers are keenly aware that there is less and less ice in condition. In North America, there’s a lot more, but what can we do when the ice isn’t in condition – which is where we’re heading more and more?<\/strong><\/h3>\n

W.G.:<\/strong>\u00a0The best thing we can do is tell our stories, our experiences. For most people, climate change is abstract, or far away. But for those of us who live in the mountains, it’s very real. I often use this example: if you’re working in Paris, and you get to your office and it’s half gone, you’re going to have a real problem. That’s what happens with guides and glaciers. That’s what happens in the mountains. In the same way, our oldest refuge in Canada – which had been there for 100 years – has disappeared because of permafrost.<\/p>\n

As mountaineers, we need to share our stories, because it’s in the mountains that global warming is most obvious and blatant.<\/p>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

He’s climbed some of the most beautiful icefalls on the planet: Will…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":24,"featured_media":60839,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"[et_pb_section fb_built=\"1\" _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" custom_padding=\"4px||0px||false|false\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" background_size=\"initial\" background_position=\"top_left\" background_repeat=\"repeat\" custom_padding=\"11px|||||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" header_font=\"|on|||\" header_2_line_height=\"1.2em\" text_orientation=\"center\" module_alignment=\"center\" header_font_size_tablet=\"\" header_font_size_phone=\"16px\" header_font_size_last_edited=\"on|desktop\" header_2_font_size_tablet=\"\" header_2_font_size_phone=\"20px\" header_2_font_size_last_edited=\"on|phone\" text_orientation_tablet=\"center\" text_orientation_phone=\"left\" text_orientation_last_edited=\"on|desktop\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n

Il a grimp\u00e9 les plus belles cascades de glace de la plan\u00e8te : Will Gadd fait partie de ceux qui ont r\u00e9volutionn\u00e9 la glace et le mixte, avec entre autres la premi\u00e8re ascension des chutes du Niagara, et de Helmcken Falls, le grand d\u00e9vers farci de stalactites en Colombie Britannique. Rencontre avec Will Gadd \u00e0 Chamonix, lors de l'Arc'teryx Alpine Academy, et surtout heureux de transmettre sa passion.<\/strong><\/h2>\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=\"1\" _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" custom_margin=\"0px||||false|false\" custom_margin_tablet=\"0px||||false|false\" custom_margin_phone=\"0px||||false|false\" custom_margin_last_edited=\"on|phone\" custom_padding=\"1px||||false|false\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" max_width=\"800px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font_size=\"18px\" header_3_font_size_tablet=\"\" header_3_font_size_phone=\"20px\" header_3_font_size_last_edited=\"on|phone\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\n[dropcap size=big]C[\/dropcap]'\u00e9tait il y a longtemps. Un bout de gla\u00e7on pendouille dans le vallon de Freissini\u00e8res. Venu pour le Rassemblement de glaciairistes de l'Argenti\u00e8re-la-bess\u00e9e, un Canadien d\u00e9cide d'aller voir. Il remonte le grand d\u00e9vers \u00e9quip\u00e9 de spits, puis, par un grand mouvement, finit par ancrer un piolet dans la glace, qu'il rejoint en grand \u00e9cart. Nous sommes bouche b\u00e9e : Will Gadd vient de r\u00e9ussir l'ascension de Double Scotch, M7+ (?) \u00e0 la cotation futuriste, \u00e0 l'\u00e9poque.\n\nVingt-cinq ans plus tard, un ensemble de hasards, dont le moindre n'est pas d'\u00eatre toujours entiers, nous rassemble dans le m\u00eame train du Montenvers \u00e0 Chamonix. Will Gadd revoit la photo (ci-dessous) de Double Scotch. Sa passion pour la glace et le mixte est intacte. Le m\u00eame train n'est pas un hasard puisque nous nous rendons sur la Mer de glace avec les stagiaires de l'Arc'teryx Alpine Academy<\/a>, venus t\u00e2ter de la glace avec l'un de ses proph\u00e8tes.\n\nCe jour-l\u00e0, comme le reste de l'ann\u00e9e, sur ses r\u00e9seaux sociaux, Will Gadd a le plaisir de partager sa passion. Pour la gestuelle si importante, et si n\u00e9glig\u00e9e en glace : plant\u00e9 de piolet, pose de pieds, placement du corps. Et puis il y a la s\u00e9curit\u00e9, la gestion du risque, sur lesquels Will Gadd communique son exp\u00e9rience. La montagne, la glace et le mixte sont des sports dangereux rappelle-t-il. Comme le parapente dont il a d\u00e9tenu un record de distance. \u00c0 nous d'apprendre \u00e0 conna\u00eetre le point commun de ces activit\u00e9s, \u00e0 savoir leur environnement, explique-t-il - l'a\u00e9rologie, le manteaux neigeux, etc.\n\nToujours habit\u00e9 par la flamme, Will Gadd l'est aussi par la p\u00e9dagogie. D'une humilit\u00e9 rare, il prend son temps pour transmettre. Son sourire illumine ses rides, fait oublier la Mer de Glace pluvieuse. Et nous rappelle que trimballer des morceaux de ferraille en montagne, c'est d'abord pour partager un moment entre copains.\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" max_width=\"800px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font_size=\"18px\" header_3_font_size_tablet=\"\" header_3_font_size_phone=\"20px\" header_3_font_size_last_edited=\"on|phone\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n

Vous avez fait beaucoup de choses en montagne au cours des 25 derni\u00e8res ann\u00e9es. Quel est votre meilleur souvenir en cascade de glace ?<\/b><\/h3>\nWill Gadd<\/strong> : Chaque voie est un produit de son \u00e9poque, des moments d'histoire. Vous m'avez montr\u00e9 cette photo de Double Scotch<\/em> \u00e0 Freissini\u00e8res, en 1999, et \u00e7a m'a rappel\u00e9 cette \u00e9poque... Nous avions fait quelque chose de tr\u00e8s cool, c'\u00e9tait un beau moment, et j'en ai quelques-uns comme \u00e7a dans ma vie. Je suis chanceux. L'un des moments les plus marquants reste peut-\u00eatre la voie que j'ai faite avec Jeff Lowe, dans le Colorado : Deep Throat<\/em> \u00e0 Glennwood Canyon, au Colorado. Une voie tr\u00e8s peu r\u00e9p\u00e9t\u00e9e. Ensuite j'ai d\u00e9couvert Helmcken Falls, un secteur vraiment marquant. D<\/span>\u00e9couvrir que cet endroit unique <\/span>existait \u00e9tait un r\u00eave !\n\n[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/jocelynchavy_ICE-2059.jpg\" title_text=\"jocelynchavy_ICE-2059\" _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" _module_preset=\"default\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"-28px||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nL'ascension par Will Gadd du gla\u00e7on suspendu de Double Scotch, \u00e0 Freissini\u00e8res, \u00e0 la fin des ann\u00e9es 90. \u00a9Jocelyn Chavy\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" custom_padding=\"0|0px||0px|false|false\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font_size=\"18px\" header_3_font_size_tablet=\"\" header_3_font_size_phone=\"20px\" header_3_font_size_last_edited=\"on|phone\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n

\u00c0 l'\u00e9poque, \u00e0 la fin des ann\u00e9es 2000, personne ne conna\u00eet ni n'a grimp\u00e9 Helmcken Falls ?<\/strong><\/h3>\nW.G.<\/strong> : Non, tout le monde pensait que j'\u00e9tais fou, que c'\u00e9tait stupide, que \u00e7a ne fonctionnait pas, que ce n'\u00e9tait pas possible de l'escalader. Mais c'\u00e9tait pareil avec l'escalade mixte : au d\u00e9but, tout le monde disait que c'\u00e9tait stupide et qu'on ne pouvait pas utiliser de piolets sur des rochers. Maintenant, \u00e7a nous para\u00eet normal, mais pas \u00e0 l'\u00e9poque.\n\nC'est comme\u00a0Octopussy<\/em>, j'ai juste trouv\u00e9 que \u00e7a avait l'air super cool. C'est \u00e7a l'escalade mixte : vous grimpez les obstacles ! Moi, c'est ce que je voulais faire. Les stalactites pour toujours ! Alors oui, c'est vraiment dangereux, mais c'est aussi tr\u00e8s beau. Nous, grimpeurs sur glace ou m\u00eame alpinistes en g\u00e9n\u00e9ral, on apprend \u00e0 op\u00e9rer dans cet environnement. Pas en toute s\u00e9curit\u00e9, mais avec une marge raisonnable. Et puis on ne fait pas ces activit\u00e9s parce qu'elles sont sans danger, on les fait parce qu'elles ont un sens pour nous et qu'elles sont importantes. On pense que le risque en vaut la peine.\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row use_custom_gutter=\"on\" gutter_width=\"2\" _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" width=\"100%\" max_width=\"1200px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/SI201402180133_hires_jpeg_24bit_rgb.jpg\" title_text=\"Will Gadd - Action\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" width=\"100%\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nWill Gadd dans le mur de Spray On<\/em> en 2014, ouvert avec Tim Emmett en 2010, dans le d\u00e9vers incroyable de Helmcken Falls. \u00a9Christian Pondella \/ Red Bull Content Pool\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=\"1_2,1_2\" use_custom_gutter=\"on\" gutter_width=\"2\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"1200px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"1_2\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font_size=\"18px\" header_3_font_size_tablet=\"\" header_3_font_size_phone=\"20px\" header_3_font_size_last_edited=\"on|phone\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n

Vous passez beaucoup de temps \u00e0 faire du kayak et du parapente, en plus de l'escalade. Vous avez m\u00eame un record du monde en parapente... \u00a0<\/span><\/b><\/h3>\nW.G. :\u00a0<\/strong>Oui, j'ai \u00e9tabli le record du monde de distance \u00e0 deux reprises, avec 423 km. J'ai \u00e9t\u00e9 battu depuis, mais c'est bien ! Tout est temporaire, il faut savoir l'appr\u00e9cier.\n

Quelles sont les similitudes et les diff\u00e9rences entre tous ces sports que vous pratiquez : l'escalade sur glace, le parapente, le kayak et le ski ?<\/b><\/h3>\nW.G. :\u00a0<\/strong><\/b>Ce qui est int\u00e9ressant dans les sports de montagne, c'est qu'il faut comprendre l'environnement. Pour le parapente, il faut comprendre comment fonction l'atmosph\u00e8re. Et c'est plus ou moins la m\u00eame chose pour la formation neigeuse, la m\u00eame chose qui rend l'escalade sur glace possible dans certains endroits et pas d'autres, la m\u00eame chose qui fait monter et descendre les rivi\u00e8res et cr\u00e9e des rivi\u00e8res dans les grottes pour le kayak...\n\n[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=\"#000000\" quote_icon_background_color=\"#ffffff\" _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" body_font=\"Oswald|700||on|||||\" body_text_align=\"center\" body_text_color=\"#000000\" body_font_size=\"30\" use_background_color=\"off\" custom_margin=\"93px||||false|false\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nCe qui est int\u00e9ressant dans tous les sports de montagne, c'est comprendre l'environnement\n\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=\"1_2\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/SI201501280014_hires_jpeg_24bit_rgb.jpg\" title_text=\"Will Gadd - Action\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" width=\"100%\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nWill sur les chutes du Niagara, seule et unique ascension \u00a9RedBull Content Pool\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" custom_padding=\"0|0px||0px|false|false\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font_size=\"18px\" header_3_font_size_tablet=\"\" header_3_font_size_phone=\"20px\" header_3_font_size_last_edited=\"on|phone\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n

Vous avez \u00e9galement dit r\u00e9cemment que vous grimpiez diff\u00e9remment maintenant qu'il y a 5 ans. Qu'est-ce qui a chang\u00e9 ?\u00a0<\/span><\/b><\/h3>\nW.G. :<\/strong>\u00a0J'ai appris ! Je trouve \u00e7a important d'\u00e9tudier les montagnes. Je l'ai fait toute ma vie, et j'apprends \u00e0 les conna\u00eetre, comment elles fonctionnent et pourquoi. J'ai donc apris des techniques diff\u00e9rentes pour ma grimpe, avec un autre \u00e9quipement et une autre glace. Tout \u00e7a me permet de l'enseigner aux gens. Enfin, beaucoup de ce que j'apprends sur la cascade de glace vient de l'enseignement. Parce que ce n'est pas si difficile de faire quelque chose, mais c'est tr\u00e8s difficile de l'expliquer \u00e0 quelqu'un. \u00c7a rend ma compr\u00e9hension de ce que j'enseigne beaucoup plus profonde.\n

Tu expliques beaucoup les mouvements de grimpe. Tu expliques en profondeur l'art de l'escalade sur glace, les mouvements des hanches, des bras, que faire ou ne pas faire. Tu es vraiment investi.\u00a0<\/b><\/h3>\nW.G.<\/strong> : J'essaie, oui. Quand je fais de l'escalade sur glace, je trouve \u00e7a beau et agr\u00e9able. Et je veux que d'autres personnes aient la m\u00eame exp\u00e9rience. Pas seulement la violence et le froid. Parce que quand j'\u00e9tais jeune, l'escalade sur glace, c'\u00e9tait la guerre ! J'avais des coupures sur le visage, les mains gel\u00e9es, c'\u00e9tait difficile. Et il y a 5 ans, je n'\u00e9tais pas capable d'expliquer cela aux gens, alors que maintenant je veux qu'ils aient un bon ressenti de cette escalade. Qu'ils comprennent l'\u00e9quilibre et qu'ils grimpent, vraiment !\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row use_custom_gutter=\"on\" gutter_width=\"2\" _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" width=\"100%\" max_width=\"1200px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/SI201903140199_hires_jpeg_24bit_rgb_news.jpg\" title_text=\"Will Gadd\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" width=\"100%\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nWill dans un moulin des glaciers du Groenland. \u00a9 Christian Pondella \/ Redbull Content Pool\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_margin=\"-1px|auto||auto||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=\"#000000\" quote_icon_background_color=\"#ffffff\" _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" body_font=\"Oswald|700||on|||||\" body_text_align=\"center\" body_text_color=\"#000000\" body_font_size=\"30\" use_background_color=\"off\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nCeux qui sont morts ne sont pas sur les r\u00e9seaux sociaux pour dire que c'est dangereux ce qu'ils font\n\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" max_width=\"800px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" header_3_font_size_phone=\"20px\" header_3_font_size_last_edited=\"on|phone\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font_size=\"18px\" header_3_font_size_tablet=\"\" header_3_font_size_phone=\"20px\" header_3_font_size_last_edited=\"on|phone\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n

Sur vos r\u00e9seaux sociaux, vous parlez aussi beaucoup de s\u00e9curit\u00e9. Pourquoi est-il important pour vous d'utiliser vos comptes pour \u00e7a ?<\/b><\/h3>\nW.G. :\u00a0<\/strong>Je pense beaucoup \u00e0 la s\u00e9curit\u00e9, pour ma pratique personnelle, parce que je sais que je fais des choses dangereuses. Mais je veux que les gens puissent prendre les bonnes d\u00e9cisions. Ceux qui sont morts ne sont pas sur les r\u00e9seaux sociaux pour dire que c'est dangereux, qu'ils sont morts parce qu'ils n'avaient compris la situation, parce qu'ils ont fait une petite erreur qui leur a co\u00fbt\u00e9 la vie. Donc je pense que c'est important, surtout pour ceux qui sont un peu plus \u00e2g\u00e9s, d'essayer de donner des retours d'exp\u00e9riences r\u00e9alistes du risque.\n

Qui t'inspire en montagne, quels livres t'ont donn\u00e9 envie de faire de l'escalade sur glace ?<\/strong><\/h3>\nW.G. :\u00a0<\/strong>J'ai appris l'escalade sur glace avec mon p\u00e8re, qui grimpait lui-aussi. J'ai fait ma premi\u00e8re voie dans mon jardin. J'avais construit mon propre mur, vers 12 ans, avec la bouilloire de ma m\u00e8re et un mur au fond du jardin. J'avais pris l'\u00e9quipement de mon p\u00e8re - qui \u00e9tait \u00e9videmment beaucoup trop grand pour moi. Et le petit mur de glace est tomb\u00e9 sur moi ! Les chaussures \u00e9taient si grandes que mes pieds en sont sortis\u00a0(rires)<\/em>. Mon p\u00e8re \u00e9tait furieux, il cherchait ses affaires, et j'ai d\u00fb lui dire qu'elles \u00e9taient sous la glace.\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_margin=\"-1px|auto||auto||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=\"#000000\" quote_icon_background_color=\"#ffffff\" _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" body_font=\"Oswald|700||on|||||\" body_text_align=\"center\" body_text_color=\"#000000\" body_font_size=\"30\" use_background_color=\"off\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nJ'ai eu de la chance, j'ai pu grimper avec mes h\u00e9ros d'enfance comme Jeff Lowe\n\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" max_width=\"800px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" header_3_font_size_phone=\"20px\" header_3_font_size_last_edited=\"on|phone\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font_size=\"18px\" header_3_font_size_tablet=\"\" header_3_font_size_phone=\"20px\" header_3_font_size_last_edited=\"on|phone\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nEnsuite, vers 16 ans, j'ai commenc\u00e9 \u00e0 vraiment grimper, sur rocher et sur glace, tout seul. Mais les livres de Yvon Chouinard et Jeff Lowe m'ont vraiment influenc\u00e9. J'ai lu, lu et lu, autant que je pouvais et tout ce que je trouvais sur le sujet. Encore une fois, tout est une question d'apprentissage, et je voulais apprendre ! Donc j'ai tout lu - il n'y avait pas les vid\u00e9os et les r\u00e9seaux sociaux \u00e0 l'\u00e9poque.\n\nEt puis j'ai eu de la chance, j'ai pu grimper avec mes h\u00e9ros. J'ai lu les livres de Jeff Lowe, puis j'ai grimp\u00e9 avec lui, le vrai Jeff Lowe ! C'\u00e9tait un type tr\u00e8s dr\u00f4le... Voil\u00e0, d'ailleurs, encore un exemple d'un grimpeur qui est mort. La plupart des gens qui m'ont appris \u00e0 grimper sont morts. Et \u00e7a, \u00e7a impacte. Donc pour grimper de telles choses, il faut y trouver un sens personnel profond. Autrement, il n'y a pas d'int\u00e9r\u00eat ! Et puis il ne faut pas le faire pour l'argent, la r\u00e9compense se trouve ailleurs...\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=\"2_3,1_3\" use_custom_gutter=\"on\" gutter_width=\"2\" _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" width=\"100%\" max_width=\"1200px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"2_3\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/jocelynchavy_willgadd-8491.jpg\" title_text=\"jocelynchavy_willgadd-8491\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" width=\"100%\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nCoaching glace par Will Gadd, \u00e0 l'Arc'teryx Alpine Academy \u00a9JC\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=\"1_3\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/jocelynchavy_willgadd-8648.jpg\" title_text=\"jocelynchavy_willgadd-8648\" _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" _module_preset=\"default\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nMont\u00e9e sans piolet avec Will Gadd, \u00e0 l'Arc'teryx Alpine Academy \u00a9JC\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" custom_padding=\"0|0px||0px|false|false\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font_size=\"18px\" header_3_font_size_tablet=\"\" header_3_font_size_phone=\"20px\" header_3_font_size_last_edited=\"on|phone\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n

La r\u00e9compense est d'enseigner aux gens ou d'\u00eatre le plus possible en montagne ?<\/strong><\/h3>\nW.G.<\/strong> : Ce sont les deux ! \u00catre dehors avec des gens qui veulent apprendre. Et trouver des moyens de communiquer avec eux... Tout le monde est diff\u00e9rent, donc je peux leur apprendre par l'humour, en \u00e9tant silencieux, en montrant, en encourageant. C'est tout \u00e7a, la r\u00e9compense, \u00e0 mes yeux.\n

Vous avez grimp\u00e9 avec de nombreux compagnons. Vous n'aimez pas grimper en solo ?<\/strong><\/h3>\nW.G.<\/strong> : J'ai beaucoup grimp\u00e9 en solo en fait, mais je n'en parle jamais. C'est personnel, je n'ai jamais laiss\u00e9 un photographe ou un cam\u00e9raman venir.\n

Quand vous regardez Alex Honnold le faire, vous avez peur pour lui ?<\/strong><\/h3>\nW.G<\/strong>. : Oui, je n'aime pas regarder quelqu'un faire du solo - c'est pour \u00e7a que je ne poste pas de photo ou de vid\u00e9o moi-m\u00eame. C'est effrayant, on ne sait pas comment \u00e7a peut se terminer... et je trouve \u00e7a vraiment personnel. Mais Alex, quand on lui parle de ce qu'il fait, on sent qu'il y a beaucoup r\u00e9fl\u00e9chi. Il est intelligent, il ne se lance pas comme \u00e7a.\n\nCe qui est amusant dans le monde de l'escalade, c'est qu'on regarde les gens qui font du solo comme une case \u00e0 part, des personnes qui prennent trop de risque. Alors que nous, grimpeurs avec cordes, sommes beaucoup plus proches d'un soloiste que d'une personne qui va courir tous les jeudis. J'ai travaill\u00e9 sur les risques relatifs dans diff\u00e9rents sports, et nous sommes beaucoup plus proches de ces soloistes, m\u00eame si on s'encorde.\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=\"2_3,1_3\" use_custom_gutter=\"on\" gutter_width=\"2\" _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" width=\"100%\" max_width=\"1200px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"2_3\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/jocelynchavy_willgadd-8604.jpg\" title_text=\"jocelynchavy_willgadd-8604\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" header_3_font_size_phone=\"20px\" header_3_font_size_last_edited=\"on|phone\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nLe plant\u00e9 de piolet selon Will Gadd, \u00e0 l'Arc'teryx Alpine Academy \u00a9JC\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=\"1_3\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/jocelynchavy_willgadd-8487.jpg\" title_text=\"jocelynchavy_willgadd-8487\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" header_3_font_size_phone=\"20px\" header_3_font_size_last_edited=\"on|phone\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nNe jamais perdre une occasion de se pendre sur les piolets, \u00e0 l'Arc'teryx Alpine Academy \u00a9JC\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" custom_padding=\"0|0px||0px|false|false\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font_size=\"18px\" header_3_font_size_tablet=\"\" header_3_font_size_phone=\"20px\" header_3_font_size_last_edited=\"on|phone\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n

Oui, vous voulez montrer que l'escalade sur glace, en t\u00eate, peut avoir de graves cons\u00e9quences...<\/b><\/h3>\nW.B. : Je veux donner aux gens une vision r\u00e9aliste et raisonnable de tout cela... sans les effrayer ! Plut\u00f4t pour leur donner une base sur laquelle s'appuyer. Si vous connaissez la gravit\u00e9 et le danger, vous pouvez prendre de bonnes d\u00e9cisions. Mais si tout ce que vous voyez, ce sont les belles photos sur les r\u00e9seaux sociaux, ce n'est pas r\u00e9aliste. On ne montre pas les photos de tous ceux qui tombent. Cette ann\u00e9e, en Am\u00e9rique du nord, il y a eu plus de 13 accidents tr\u00e8s graves de soloistes...\n\nJe pense que dans nos communaut\u00e9s de l'outdoor, il y a eu une normalisation du solo. Quand j'\u00e9tais jeune grimpeur, le solo c'\u00e9tait vraiment quelque chose \u00e0 part, tr\u00e8s haut et tr\u00e8s grand. Du style : on fera \u00e7a un jour, peut-\u00eatre ! Et maintenant, \u00e7a s'est normalis\u00e9, alors que \u00e7a reste du solo, pas de l'escalade facile ! Je trouve qu'on rend normal quelque chose qui devrait \u00eatre (et rester) exceptionnel, quelque chose que vous faites quand vous vous sentez vraiment capable.\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_margin=\"30px|auto||auto||\" custom_padding=\"||65px|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=\"#000000\" quote_icon_background_color=\"#ffffff\" _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" body_font=\"Oswald|700||on|||||\" body_text_align=\"center\" body_text_color=\"#000000\" body_font_size=\"30\" use_background_color=\"off\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\ndans notre communaut\u00e9, il y a eu une normalisation du solo\n\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" custom_padding=\"0|0px||0px|false|false\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font_size=\"18px\" header_3_font_size_tablet=\"\" header_3_font_size_phone=\"20px\" header_3_font_size_last_edited=\"on|phone\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n

Il y a environ 3 ans, une \u00e9quipe fran\u00e7aise s'est rendue en Himalaya pour une exp\u00e9dition, et trois personnes sont mortes.<\/a> L'une des compagnes a \u00e9crit une lettre<\/a> disant que ceux qui font \u00e7a sont finalement \u00e9go\u00efstes parce qu'ils ne disent jamais qu'ils prennent autant de risques. Et qu'ils devraient \u00eatre plus honn\u00eates \u00e0 propos des risques. Qu'en pensez-vous ?<\/b><\/h3>\nW.G. :\u00a0<\/strong>Oui, je me souviens de cet accident terrible. Je pense qu'elle a raison : nous ne sommes pas assez honn\u00eates avec nous-m\u00eame au sujet des risques. Je pense que cela fait aussi partie de ce que je veux transmettre : \u00eatre honn\u00eate avec soi-m\u00eame et avec les gens autours. \u00c7a ne veut pas dire que ce que nous faisons, nous montagnards, est mauvais - et je ne dis pas \u00e0 quelqu'un combien de risque il doit prendre - mais je pense que nous devrions avoir une bonne (meilleure) compr\u00e9hension des risques. Dans notre culture actuelle, nous ne l'avons pas. Reinhold Messner l'a bien dit : dans sa propre g\u00e9n\u00e9ration d'alpinistes, 50% sont morts. Si vous \u00eates alpinistes \u00e0 plein temps, je pense que c'est assez v\u00e9rifiable.\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row use_custom_gutter=\"on\" gutter_width=\"2\" _builder_version=\"4.22.1\" width=\"100%\" max_width=\"1200px\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800px\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_image src=\"https:\/\/alpinemag.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/SI202004170109.jpg\" title_text=\"Will Gadd\" show_in_lightbox=\"on\" show_bottom_space=\"off\" align=\"center\" _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" width=\"100%\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font=\"Merriweather|900|||||||\" text_font_size=\"16\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" border_style=\"solid\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n\nWill Gadd dans une nouvelle voie sur un sea stack<\/em> au Donegal, Irlande, 2020. \u00a9 John Price \/ Red Bull Content Pool\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" custom_padding=\"0|0px||0px|false|false\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font_size=\"18px\" header_3_font_size_tablet=\"\" header_3_font_size_phone=\"20px\" header_3_font_size_last_edited=\"on|phone\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n

Comment \u00eatre honn\u00eate avec soi-m\u00eame, alors ?\u00a0<\/span><\/b><\/h3>\nW.G. :\u00a0<\/b>Je pense qu'il faut savoir ce que l'on fait quand on s'engage l\u00e0-dedans, \u00e7a permet de prendre de meilleures d\u00e9cisions. Quand on observe les anciens guides, ils ont franchit la ligne du danger, avec beaucoup de pr\u00e9caution.\n

Ou quand vous allez aux chutes du Niagara par exemple ! C'est aussi dangereux...<\/b><\/i><\/h3>\nW.G. :\u00a0<\/strong>Oui, mais je n'ai pas la solution : ce que je fais est dangereux. Mais ce secteur est l'un des plus cool... C'est \u00e9norme, c'est bruyant, la puissance de l'eau est incroyable. J'y vais et je travaille tr\u00e8s dur pour que le principal danger ne repose que sur moi, et pas sur les gens qui me filment ou me photographient. Si je fais une erreur et me tue, c'est moi, mais je ne veux pas emmener quelqu'un d'autre dans ma chute. Je dois \u00eatre tr\u00e8s prudent, c'est \u00e7a qui m'importe le plus. J'ai travaill\u00e9 deux ans sur cette ascension, pour comprendre comment l'eau monte et descend, etc.\n\nUne grande partie de ce que je fais en montagne comporte les m\u00eames risques, mais j'y ne consacre pas deux ans de travail. C'est compliqu\u00e9... On ne peut pas se pr\u00e9parer \u00e0 tous les al\u00e9as d'une montagne enti\u00e8re non plus.\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_margin=\"-1px|auto||auto||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=\"#000000\" quote_icon_background_color=\"#ffffff\" _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" body_font=\"Oswald|700||on|||||\" body_text_align=\"center\" body_text_color=\"#000000\" body_font_size=\"30\" use_background_color=\"off\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" saved_tabs=\"all\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n
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\n\nNous devons partager nos histoires parce que c'est l\u00e0 en montagne que le r\u00e9chauffement climatique est le plus \u00e9vident\n\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n[\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\"4.16\" max_width=\"800px\" custom_margin=\"||||false|false\" custom_padding=\"0|0px||0px|false|false\" use_custom_width=\"on\" custom_width_px=\"800\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"][et_pb_column type=\"4_4\" _builder_version=\"4.16\" custom_padding=\"|||\" global_colors_info=\"{}\" custom_padding__hover=\"|||\"][et_pb_text _builder_version=\"4.24.2\" text_font_size=\"18px\" custom_padding=\"||1px|||\" header_3_font_size_tablet=\"\" header_3_font_size_phone=\"20px\" header_3_font_size_last_edited=\"on|phone\" global_colors_info=\"{}\"]\n

En France, les grimpeurs sur glace remarquent tr\u00e8s fortement qu'il y a de moins en moins de glace en conditions. En Am\u00e9rique du nord, il y en a beaucou plus, mais que pouvons-nous faire quand la glace n'est pas en conditions - ce vers quoi on tend de plus en plus ?\u00a0<\/b><\/h3>\nW.G. :\u00a0<\/strong>La meilleure chose \u00e0 faire, c'est de raconter nos histoires, nos exp\u00e9riences. Pour la plupart des gens, le changement climatique est abstrait, ou loin. Mais pour ceux d'entre nous qui vivent dans les montagnes, c'est bien r\u00e9el. Je prends souvent cet exemple : si tu travailles \u00e0 Paris, que tu arrives \u00e0 ton bureau et qu'il est \u00e0 moiti\u00e9 disparu, \u00e7a te posera vraiment probl\u00e8me. C'est ce qu'il se passe pour les guides avec les glaciers. C'est ce qu'il se passe dans les montagne. De m\u00eame, notre plus vieux refuge au Canada - qui \u00e9tait l\u00e0 depuis 100 ans - a disparu \u00e0 cause du perg\u00e9lisol.\n\nNous, alpinistes, devons partager nos histoires parce que c'est l\u00e0, en montagne, que le r\u00e9chauffement climatiques est le plus \u00e9vident et le plus fragrant.\n\n[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[19,20],"tags":[67,39,288,330,762,761,270],"class_list":["post-60838","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climbing","category-mountaineering","tag-chamonix","tag-climbing","tag-ice-climbing","tag-interview","tag-kayaking","tag-risks","tag-will-gadd"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/60838","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/24"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=60838"}],"version-history":[{"count":12,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/60838\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":60865,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/60838\/revisions\/60865"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/60839"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=60838"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=60838"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=60838"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}