[et_pb_section fb_built=”1″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_margin=”-5px||||false|false” custom_padding=”2px||6px|||” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ header_font=”|on|||” text_orientation=”center” module_alignment=”center” header_font_size_tablet=”” header_font_size_phone=”16px” header_font_size_last_edited=”on|desktop” header_2_font_size_tablet=”” header_2_font_size_phone=”16px” header_2_font_size_last_edited=”on|phone” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=”1″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_margin=”||||false|false” custom_padding=”2px||3px|||” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ width=”100%” max_width=”100%” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font_size=”16px” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n
I<\/span>\u00a0often tell people that climbing is at least 50% in your mind. Whilst it’s probably fair to say that figure is a little random and definitely pulled out of nowhere scientific, I really feel that how I am in my head changes everything at the crag or the gym. A good day where I\u2019m feeling physically strong can sometimes give terrible results, if my head is not there, and a bad day can sometimes finish unimaginably.<\/p>\n As an incredibly complex sport, it should come as no surprise that climbing, with its a multitude of\u00a0<\/span>tiny often complicated movements to master, is difficult if we can\u2019t fully concentrate. Deeper than that, the emotional side of things also has a huge impact on performance. I\u2019m sure everyone would agree that if we feel great, were more likely to perform well, but did you know it’s actually possible to alter your mental state with the express goal of improving your performance?\u00a0<\/span>A great example of this is listening to some your favourite psych music<\/i> whilst training. It’s not just about having some cool beats to pass the time, but music has been proven to change your state of mind, and in relation to climbing performance it can do all sorts of crazy things.<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”1200px” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2024\/08\/DS_7153-Muy-Caliente-E10.jpg” title_text=”_DS_7153 Muy Caliente E10″ show_in_lightbox=”on” show_bottom_space=”off” align=”center” _builder_version=”4.24.2″ width=”100%” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font=”Merriweather|900|||||||” text_font_size=”16″ custom_margin=”||||false|false” hover_enabled=”0″ border_style=”solid” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]<\/p>\n May Caliente in Pembroke – the first time, I tried to flash E10. You have to stay calm in a section of climbing that is around 7c+, faciing a ground fall from 18m. \u00a9David Simmonite<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_margin=”-1px|auto||auto||” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=”#000000″ quote_icon_background_color=”#ffffff” _builder_version=”4.16″ body_font=”Oswald|700||on|||||” body_text_align=”center” body_text_color=”#000000″ body_font_size=”30″ use_background_color=”off” custom_margin=”||||false|false” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n Luckily, with training and practice, [\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”800px” custom_margin=”||||false|false” custom_padding=”0|0px||0px|false|false” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font_size=”16px” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n Recalling some particularly bold routes from my past, from time to time I\u2019ve even climbed with headphones playing some of my favourite tunes, as without that extra little help the pressure of dealing with the situation was simply too much. The music not only allowed me to concentrate on something else other than the stress, but it also helped me to ground myself in familiar emotions \u2013 transporting part of my subconscious to a successful training session in the past where everything seemed to flow.\u00a0<\/span>Whilst listening to music is certainly powerful, it’s not always practical or even possible.\u00a0<\/span>Luckily, with training and practice, we all have the potential to change our mental state at whim, simply by wishing to do so.<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=”1″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_margin=”||||false|false” custom_margin_tablet=”” custom_margin_phone=”” custom_margin_last_edited=”on|desktop” custom_padding=”4px||||false|false” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=”#000000″ quote_icon_background_color=”#ffffff” _builder_version=”4.16″ body_font=”Oswald|700||on|||||” body_text_align=”center” body_text_color=”#000000″ body_font_size=”30″ use_background_color=”off” custom_margin=”||||false|false” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n Caroline often describes the appeal of competition [\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”800px” custom_margin=”50px|||” custom_padding=”0|0px|22.796875px|0px|false|false” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font_size=”16px” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n Unsurprisingly for anyone who has ever had the chance to meet him, or even watched him on video, one of the greatest mental strengths I\u2019ve ever seen is Yuji Hirayama!\u00a0<\/span>Yuji has climbed, and excelled in most of the disciplines you find in the sport today.\u00a0<\/span>From boulders to big walls, trad to World Cup competition, Yuji is not only able to function at the top of his physical capabilities, with added pressure he surpasses what he\u2019s able to do in training.<\/p>\n Caroline often describes the appeal of competition as taking away all of your control!\u00a0<\/span>Unlike regular climbing, where we wait to feel in shape, wait for a good day of conditions, wait for the best time of day etc etc, competition forces you to climb at your best, whenever the competition decides!\u00a0 <\/span>People deal with, and respond to this challenge in different ways.\u00a0<\/span>At one extreme you train your physical capacity to a far greater level, to soak up any loss you might find on D day, on the other you work on your mental game to make sure you give your very best when the time is right.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”1200px” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2024\/08\/24042012-_DSC0701-2-scaled.jpg” title_text=”24042012-_DSC0701-2″ show_in_lightbox=”on” show_bottom_space=”off” align=”center” _builder_version=”4.24.2″ width=”100%” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font=”Merriweather|900|||||||” text_font_size=”16″ custom_margin=”||||false|false” hover_enabled=”0″ border_style=”solid” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]<\/p>\n Caroline and myself on a multi pitch bay in Sardinia. \u00a9Riky Feldere<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”800px” custom_margin=”5px|auto||auto||” custom_padding=”0|0px|22.796875px|0px|false|false” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font_size=”16px” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n Whilst Yuji is definitely not alone in the ranks of mental gifted competitors, what sets Yuji apart from others is how well he\u2019s able to use his gift to excel at all other aspects of climbing.\u00a0<\/span>I\u2019ve personally witnessed him climb hard sport routes on his final attempt of the last day of the trip, as well as bold trad routes when falling is not an option.\u00a0<\/span>In both situations, just a few hours before he still seemed far away from the level required to actually climb the pitch, but when needs must, Yuji knows how to put his body and mind into gear, in all styles! \u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n On first glance this doesn\u2019t seem so shocking.\u00a0<\/span>The two experiences ultimately come down to the same challenge of finding the best in yourself when failure is not an option, just like in a competition, and so someone who can do one, should be able to do them all, right?<\/p>\n In my own experience it’s not quite that simple, as there are subtle yet important differences in the type of stress that make the overall experience anything but the same.\u00a0<\/span>I started climbing over 20 years ago, and contrary to what most people might think, I’ve spent the most part of the last 15 years concentrating on sport climbing!\u00a0<\/span>Despite the significant amount of time I\u2019ve invested, and the chance I have of living in one of the best countries in the world for sport climbing, as well as being married to an awesome sport and competition climber, I\u2019m still far from an expert in this field. \u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=”#000000″ quote_icon_background_color=”#ffffff” _builder_version=”4.16″ body_font=”Oswald|700||on|||||” body_text_align=”center” body_text_color=”#000000″ body_font_size=”30″ use_background_color=”off” custom_margin=”||||false|false” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n the last time i felt purely focused on trad climbing [\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”800px” custom_margin=”5px|auto||auto||” custom_padding=”0|0px|22.796875px|0px|false|false” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font_size=”16px” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n In comparison, when it comes to trad climbing, big run-outs and risk, I feel like I can hold my own with some of the best in the business.\u00a0 <\/span>In the last 5 years I\u2019ve opened hard multi-pitch adventure routes in Ethiopia, repeated one of the boldest climbs on gritstone, and made the first ascent of Bon Voyage<\/em>,\u00a0a contender for the worlds hardest trad route – all this is with no trad specific<\/i> training.\u00a0Believe it or not, the last time I felt purely focused on Trad climbing would probably be around 2003, when Toby Benham and I spent an entire winter focused on climbing Hard Grit<\/em>, culminating in Toby\u2019s ascent of Harder Faster<\/em>.\u00a0<\/span>I\u2019m not saying that I never go trad climbing, and I\u2019ve definitely been on plenty of Trad specific trips, but the majority of my time and my training, the real bread and butter of my climbing, has for many years been focused on sport climbing.<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=”1_2,1_2″ use_custom_gutter=”on” gutter_width=”2″ _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”1200px” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”1_2″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2024\/08\/OTE_march_cov-scaled.jpg” title_text=”OTE_march_cov” show_in_lightbox=”on” show_bottom_space=”off” align=”center” _builder_version=”4.24.2″ width=”100%” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font=”Merriweather|900|||||||” text_font_size=”16″ custom_margin=”||||false|false” hover_enabled=”0″ border_style=”solid” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]<\/p>\n One of mt very first gritstone, first ascent – Dynomight E7. \u00a9David Simmonite<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=”1_2″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2024\/08\/DS_5476-Daddy-Cool-E8-Pearson.jpg” title_text=”James Pearson tiptoes up Daddy Cool (E8 6b) at Carreg-y-Barcud.” show_in_lightbox=”on” show_bottom_space=”off” align=”center” _builder_version=”4.24.2″ width=”100%” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font=”Merriweather|900|||||||” text_font_size=”16″ custom_margin=”||||false|false” hover_enabled=”0″ border_style=”solid” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]<\/p>\n The very bold Daddy Cool in North Pembroke, E8. \u00a9David Simmonite<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”800px” custom_margin=”5px|auto||auto||” custom_padding=”0|0px|22.796875px|0px|false|false” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font_size=”16px” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n So why is it then that I feel so much more comfortable when trad climbing in comparison to climbing on bolts?\u00a0<\/span>For one reason or another I\u2019m able to deal with, and capitalise on the certain pressure of falling = injury, all whilst the more subtle nuances of performance anxiety in sport climbing continue to allude me.\u00a0<\/span>At first I thought it due to simply not knowing how to relax, as to a certain extent, trad climbing teaches us to overly control every movement in order to minimise the chance of an unexpected slip.\u00a0<\/span>Sport climbing on the other hand needs one to let go, almost literally! To make to most of whatever reserves you have, sport climbing asks you to relax on each move to the point of almost falling, so you can climb the route as efficiently as possible.\u00a0<\/p>\n Whilst this is undoubtably part of my issue (I can see the general difference in my efficiency compared to Caro simply by comparing our max boulder grade with max sport grade), there have been moments during some of my hard trad climbs where I feel incredibly free, and climb without worrying about the pump building in my forearms.<\/p>\n It would be understandable on bold routes where the climbing is rarely physically difficult, but I\u2019ve also experienced this on safer, harder routes that could be compared to sport routes missing a few bolts (Rhapsody<\/em> is a great example), and it\u2019s incredibly liberating to be up there without a care in the world.\u00a0 <\/span>Those special moments usually go hand in hand with exceptional performances, where significant unexpected gains are made on the journey towards finishing a project or routes are flashed or on-sighted (Somethings Burning<\/em>) when chances seem very slim. \u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=”#000000″ quote_icon_background_color=”#ffffff” _builder_version=”4.16″ body_font=”Oswald|700||on|||||” body_text_align=”center” body_text_color=”#000000″ body_font_size=”30″ use_background_color=”off” custom_margin=”||||false|false” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n I\u2019d love to be able to transfer these skills to sport climbing, [\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”800px” custom_margin=”5px|auto||auto||” custom_padding=”0|0px|22.796875px|0px|false|false” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font_size=”16px” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n I\u2019d love to be able to transfer these skills to sport climbing, and whilst progress is being made, it\u2019s clearly not as easy as I hoped it would be, if only measured by the time I spend working on it.\u00a0<\/span>A typical red-point process on a hard sport climb sees me falling repeatedly on the same move, or making slow and steady upwards progress, falling one move higher each attempt when excitement induced pump rears its ugly head when passing my high point.\u00a0<\/span>On-sight sport climbing is probably my weakest discipline, and more often than not finishes embarrassingly low in my chosen route, when I find myself surprised by a hold (that 9 times out of 10 is really actually quite good) and see my wings come up, ready for flight a few seconds later!<\/p>\n Whilst I\u2019m far from a sport climbing God however, I might actually be able to share some words of wisdom on how I\u2019m slowly improving, as bizarrely even though I can\u2019t tell you why I\u2019m not as good as I\u2019d like to be, I feel like I could probably give you better advice on training for sport climbing than I could for getting better at trad, simply because I\u2019m actually having to try to work it out rather than having it just happen.<\/p>\n In addition to the basic physical work of spending hours in the gym, turning around my circuits or lapping routes back to back, I spend a lot of time visualising my performance, repeating the physical movements in my head but also including the emotional aspect of climbing at my limit.\u00a0 <\/span>If you\u2019ve never heard of visualisation before this might all seem a little far fetched, but look at it like this\u2026<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=”1_2,1_2″ use_custom_gutter=”on” gutter_width=”2″ _builder_version=”4.16″ width=”100%” max_width=”1200px” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”1_2″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2024\/08\/L4J6710-EOTA-JP.jpg” title_text=”_L4J6710 EOTA JP” show_in_lightbox=”on” show_bottom_space=”off” align=”center” force_fullwidth=”on” _builder_version=”4.24.2″ global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font=”Merriweather|900|||||||” text_font_size=”16″ custom_margin=”||||false|false” hover_enabled=”0″ border_style=”solid” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]<\/p>\n End of the Affair, the only E8 I have ever climbed on-sight on the gritstone. A classic Johnny Dawes route from the 1980s \u00a0and although the climbing is not particularly physically difficult (around 7b), it is very technical and easy to fall off. \u00a9Coll. Ciavaldini\/Pearson<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=”1_2″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font_size=”16px” custom_margin=”33px|||||” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n A typical climber projecting a route, works out the moves, starts making red-points, and after a lot of tries where they both improve slightly in fitness, but more precisely learn to be more efficient in the route, they clip the chains.\u00a0<\/span>That, or they reach a blockage point where progress slows, stagnates, or even start to regress, where they might eventually improve again, or alternatively give up.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n What visualisation allows you to do is to boost or refine this learning and adaptation process, helping you to become more efficient through repetition without actually climbing, In turn this makes you more successful on each real try, ultimately reducing the time you might otherwise have to invest to climb the route and speeding up your general progression.<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=”#000000″ quote_icon_background_color=”#ffffff” _builder_version=”4.16″ body_font=”Oswald|700||on|||||” body_text_align=”center” body_text_color=”#000000″ body_font_size=”30″ use_background_color=”off” custom_margin=”51px||||false|false” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n By rehearsing the moves in your head [\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”800px” custom_margin=”5px|auto||auto||” custom_padding=”0|0px|22.796875px|0px|false|false” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font_size=”16px” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n By rehearsing the moves in your head away from the route itself, you help yourself react quicker and climb more efficiently next time you actually climb.\u00a0<\/span>The same can be said for the emotions you might face, of which there are many, but we\u2019ll keep things focused on one or two in this article.\u00a0 <\/span>A typical sight at sport crags is climbers going one or to moves higher on each attempt, seeming to be in great shape, then suddenly falling overcome with pump.<\/p>\n The highpoint stops being the unknown, and in that alone, a significant hurdle in arriving there again has already been overcome.\u00a0<\/span>On the other hand, they suddenly find themselves back in the unknown, from where they are either unsure to have what it takes, or nervous about falling when they think they have a chance to finish it off!\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=”#000000″ quote_icon_background_color=”#ffffff” _builder_version=”4.16″ body_font=”Oswald|700||on|||||” body_text_align=”center” body_text_color=”#000000″ body_font_size=”30″ use_background_color=”off” custom_margin=”||||false|false” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n Have you ever found yourself sticking the crux of your project [\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”800px” custom_margin=”5px|auto||auto||” custom_padding=”0|0px|22.796875px|0px|false|false” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font_size=”16px” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n Have you ever found yourself sticking the crux of your project for the first time, with only easy<\/i> ground ahead, and told yourself Thats it, don\u2019t drop it now!\u00a0<\/i>How many of you fell off just after thanks to an incredibly fast-onset debilitating pump?\u00a0A physical reaction to a mental \/ emotional stimulus!\u00a0<\/p>\n By visualising all of these things, actually imagining yourself living the experience, even falling off and feeling your excitement \/ pride \/ frustration, you\u2019ll have already been in that moment and will be less likely to be effected by it when it arrives for real.\u00a0 <\/span>It might sound a bit far fetched, but it can really work wonders, and I\u2019d recommend any climber to add it into their training schedule, especially if they feel prone to overthinking \/ overanalysing when projecting a specific route.<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=”#000000″ quote_icon_background_color=”#ffffff” _builder_version=”4.16″ body_font=”Oswald|700||on|||||” body_text_align=”center” body_text_color=”#000000″ body_font_size=”30″ use_background_color=”off” custom_margin=”||||false|false” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n I used to want to top-rope routes 10x in a row\u00a0 [\/et_pb_testimonial][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”800px” custom_margin=”50px|||” custom_padding=”0|0px|22.796875px|0px|false|false” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font_size=”16px” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n Coming back to trad climbing, the only advice I can give, which is probably a contender for the most unhelpful advice ever given, is just to climb plenty of really sketchy routes as a young climber.\u00a0<\/span>Preferably when you are young and ignorant of the real dangers, you need to get out there and have some real leg shaking moments, make some really bad decisions, and only thanks to a bit of luck be able to walk back to the car at the end of the day!\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n Obviously I\u2019m not really recommending this approach, but its basically what I did, and although my first few dangerous routes were a real shambles, little by little I improved and evolved. Whilst at first the danger element definitely brought out the worst in my climbing; I used to want to top-rope routes 10x in a row before I\u2019d commit to the lead, knowing on the sharp end I\u2019d climb like a gibbering wreck.\u00a0<\/span>Eventually the opposite became true, where danger and commitment would take my climbing to levels I could only normally dream about.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=”1_2,1_2″ use_custom_gutter=”on” gutter_width=”2″ _builder_version=”4.16″ width=”100%” max_width=”1200px” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”1_2″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font_size=”16px” custom_margin=”3px|||||” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n The only way I can rationalise this progression is that under such intense pressure, with the consequence of failure being so high, my mind was somehow able to evolve to survive, forcing myself to absorb or develop just the right skill set for climbing on the grit.\u00a0<\/span>Towards the end of my Hard Grit <\/i>days, around 2008, I was actually attempting to lead dangerous routes I\u2019d not been able to top-rope, and not only getting away with it, but really feeling like I was floating up them!\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n Never to this day have I found peace and serenity like that I felt on my hardest gritstone ascents, and the arrogance of youth made me believe I had it all figured out.\u00a0Long story short, a certain long and scary slab on the North Devon coast put a quick end to that, and after coming to terms with the fact I wasn\u2019t Gods gift to climbing, a realisation that I still had a lot left to learn set me on the path I\u2019m still walking today.<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][et_pb_testimonial quote_icon_color=”#000000″ quote_icon_background_color=”#ffffff” _builder_version=”4.16″ body_font=”Oswald|700||on|||||” body_text_align=”center” body_text_color=”#000000″ body_font_size=”30″ use_background_color=”off” custom_margin=”44px||||false|false” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n Never to this day have I found peace and serenity [\/et_pb_testimonial][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font_size=”16px” custom_margin=”33px|||||” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n The Walk of Life<\/em>, whilst still a trad route, was like nothing I\u2019d climbed before.\u00a0<\/span>Unlike the grit routes I\u2019d grown up on where the actual lead effort might be over in less than a couple of minutes, The Walk of Life<\/em> took me over an hour to climb, and my way of coping with the stress fell to pieces!\u00a0<\/span>For over an hour I tip-toed in terror, certain I would fall and die, over-gripping like my life depended on it and obviously getting very, very pumped!\u00a0<\/span>It wasn\u2019t a fun route to climb, and if all the bold routes I climbed felt like that one, I\u2019d have given up trad climbing a long time ago.<\/span><\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=”1_2″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2024\/08\/Alpilles-Bestof-22-scaled.jpg” title_text=”Alpilles-Bestof-22″ show_in_lightbox=”on” show_bottom_space=”off” align=”center” _builder_version=”4.24.2″ width=”100%” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font=”Merriweather|900|||||||” text_font_size=”16″ custom_margin=”||||false|false” hover_enabled=”0″ border_style=”solid” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]<\/p>\n Spot climbing to our house iin the south of France. \u00a9Collection Ciavaldini\/Pearson<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ max_width=”800px” custom_margin=”10px|auto||auto||” custom_padding=”0|0px|22.796875px|0px|false|false” use_custom_width=”on” custom_width_px=”800″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.24.2″ text_font_size=”16px” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n Luckily, by working on my general fitness, in time, I could adapt to climbing longer routes; allowing my mental tactics to grow and change, eventually finding similar experiences in the mountains and sea cliffs to those of my early grit routes.<\/p>\n You can\u2019t teach an old dog new tricks, and inversely, it’s easier to learn new things when you are young.\u00a0<\/span>I can see that already with Arthur and Zoellie<\/span> later, they pick things up so quickly and they’re not the same person from one week to the next.\u00a0<\/span><\/span>More importantly, I think the first experiences we have of something tend to be the ones that stick with us, and its really hard to break a habit, or re-learn the same skill in a different way.<\/p>\n Hard Grit<\/em> trad is what I know how to do best, and like it or not I think it will always be that way.\u00a0<\/span>Sure I can improve in other aspects, train and develop skills I feel are lacking and give myself the possibility to climb and enjoy other things, but nothing feels quite as much like home as balancing on a smear, slopers in my hands and slack rope beneath my feet!<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" This time, British climber James Pearson tackles the issue of mental strength….<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":9950,"featured_media":61041,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[19],"tags":[45,39,44,773,772],"class_list":["post-61022","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climbing","tag-caroline-ciavaldini","tag-climbing","tag-james-pearson","tag-mental-strength","tag-once-upon-a-climb"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/61022","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/9950"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=61022"}],"version-history":[{"count":17,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/61022\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":295025,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/61022\/revisions\/295025"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/61041"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=61022"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=61022"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinemag.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=61022"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
we all have the potential to change our mental state at whim<\/p>\n
as taking away all of your control<\/p>\n
would probably be around 2003<\/p>\n\n
and whilst progress is being made,
it\u2019s clearly not as easy as I hoped it would be<\/p>\n
away from the route itself,
you help yourself react quicker
and climb more efficiently
next time you actually climb<\/p>\n
for the first time,\u00a0
and told yourself Thats it, don\u2019t drop it now! <\/i><\/p>\n
Before I’d commit to the lead<\/p>\n
like that I felt
on my hardest gritstone ascents<\/p>\n