Climbing in the Adirondacks (1984)

Climbing in the Adirondacks (1984)

The following new route descriptions (as of September 1984) are supplemental to Climbing in the Adirondacks , by Don Mellor. Most were put up this summer, on a variety of crags. The Adirondacks continue to offer much in the way of rock climbing without crowds and in panoramic mountain settings.

Editor’s Note: Most of these routes are incorporated in the marvelous guide, Adirondack Rock, by Jim Lawyer and Jeremy Haas.

Hurricane Crags

These are the “Pitchoff 9N” cliffs in Don Mellor’s new guidebook. Partly because of confusion with Pitchoff Chimney cliff in Cascade Pass, partly because the old name is boring and without gusto, but mostly because the area has seen a renaissance of climbing activity, the new name has been conjured up by various local rock brigands. Although it was first explored during the 1950’s by Fritz Weissner and Co. and by subsequent Adirondack pioneers, Hurricane recently yielded new routes of very good quality. For anyone in an adventurous spirit, there are some dazzling aid lines to be forged on this abrupt south ridge of Hurricane Mountain.

Approach: Park your car 150 yards west of ttesand pit quarry 5 miles towards Elizabethtown (from Rt. 73) on route 9N. Walk into the woods 150 yards to a small rock wall. Bear right and follow cairns up 15 minutes to the base of the main cliff. This is a complicated cliff to describe, so take all descriptions under careful onsight consideration. Contact us at the Alpine Journal if more info is desired. Routes are described from left to right.

Quadrophenia 5.7(e)
Starts 20′ right of PSOC corner. This 4 and a half pitch route turns two large, stepped overhangs up high. The first three pitches are sustained 5.7. Excellent tree belays.
P.1 Climb corner with small tree in it for 35′. Climb up and left to gain ramp layback feature that leads to large ledge. Be lay at small tree.
P.2 Face climb 151 to mantle on sloping ledge to gain crack that leads to belay below first big roof.
P.3 Turn both roofs to right (cedar tree in corner between roofs). After second roof, belay at cedar tree to the left. 80′
P.4 Climb up onto ledge above cedar and walk right to end of ledge with tree.
P.5 Face climb up and right to gain 10′ crack. Face and slab climbing to the top for 140′.
Jim Cunningham and Bob Hey

Look, Roll and Fire 5.9+ (s)
Down slope from Quadrophenia (30′ R) is a chimney/crack corner. To the left of this is an overlapping flake system; this is the start of the first pitch. The start is to the left of an overhang system.
P.1 Climb through flake system 25′. Zigzag corner to large ledge. Walk left to bottom of pitch 2 of Quadrophenia.
P.2 Same as pitch 2 of Quadrophenia.
P.3 Traverse 10′ and up 10′ to belay on rock pedistal with tree and several overhanging crack systems above.
P.4 Step left into cedar tree groove and climb up to overhang that has three diverging overhanging cracks. This is the Lady’s Buxum. Finger layback righthand crack (crux) to gain face and treacherous loose rock slab above. 100′.
Jim Cunningham and Ken Reville 4/3/1984

Tommy 5.8 (s)
Start at the same point as Look, Rool and Fire, but climb the chimmney feature to the right.
P.1 Climb chimney to tree belay. 30′.
P.2 Climb laminated flake and through steep wall to belay ledge. Rapell from this ledge, called Broadway because of its extension across the entire middle section of the cliff.
Jim Cunningham and David Flinn 4/1984

The next routes are to the right of the prominent Weissner Chimney called the Old Route.

**Schizophrenia 5.9 (s)
Immediately to the right of Old Route is a pile of large boulders; above there is an overhanging flake which can be turned to the left to gain steep corner that has small overhang at its top. This is the route. Face climb past roof above to the top. There is an easier exist to the left of the small overhanging roof. The opening moves are challenging but well protected with friends.
Jim Cunningham, Bob Hey, and David Flinn 3/28/84

**Spring Equinox 5.8 (e)
To the right of Schizophrenia is a steep wall with cracks in it. Ten feet to the right of this feature is a leftfacing corner with a tree.
P.1 Climb corner past tree and over bulge to tree belay (also the rapell tree to use after coming off Broadway).
P.2 Climb steep flake crack for forty feet tp tree belay on Broadway. An exciting layback pitch.
Jim Cunningham and Bill Dodd 3/24/84

**New Route 5.5 (e)
As you approach the main face three aretes are in sight. The far right arete is the start of New Route.
P.1 Climb arete 201 to small ledge. Slab and face climb black streaked rock to large ledge and belay.
P.2 Climb middle of slab above to top.
Jim Cunningham and Bob Hey 3/26/84

Contact Buzz 5.8 (s)
Around corner of New Route and between this and chimney is a steep, short, broken wall with a crack going up through it. Climb crack to ledge. Continue on to the slab above or join New Route. During this ascent the party was dive bombed by a peregrine falcon.
Ken Reville and George Carrol

The Beer Walls

The following routes are located on the left end of the lower Beer Wall. Between CWI and Rolling Rock. This section of the wall forms a curving shield wall with a long, short overhang at its base. At,the lowest point of this shield there is a leftslanting finger crack that leads up to a roof and a flake called Gateway — this is Rockaholic.

**Rockaholic 5.8 (s)
P.1 Climb crack through overhang and Gateway flake to the top.
Mark Meschinelli, Dave Hough, Jim(?) Turner

**Equis 5.8 (s)
Ten feet right of Rockaholic climb through small overhang to gain left slanting trough with cedar tree growing in its middle. Climb past cedar tree to face and flake systems (friends Reccomended). 100′.

**The Sword 5.6 (e with bolts)
25′ left and down hill from Block Party is a left-tending ramp.
P.1 Climb up and left on tamp to birch trees. Continue to tree belay below knife-edge arete.
P.2 Climb blocky rock to underneath truncated arete; continue out right to its right side and then gain arete proper via moves left. Cut on up edge past bolt to the top.
Jim Cunningham and Al Jolley 5/7/83

Billboard Wall

This is the cliff at the top of the approach trail on the left.

**Tie Me Up 5.8 (e)
Climbs a beautiful crack next to huge birch tree. 65′.
Al Jolley and Cathy Bright

**Zig Zag 5.9 (e)
A double-back traverse that finishes about 201 from its start. Locate the long horizontal scrub line,next to Tie Me Up.
P.1 Traverse left for 60′ to a small birch tree belay.
P.2 Take the upper traverse line right below long overhang. Climb past Tie Me Up to strenuous Houdini move, then on to the ground and belay. 75′.
Jim Cunningham, Tim Broader, Ken Reville, and Al Jolley


**Necessary Risk 5.6 (e)
An excellent four pitch access route for the Diagonal and No Man’s A Pilot. Located to the left of the main line of No Man’s A Pilot and the beginning of Diagonals ramp at the lowest point of the Cliff.
P.1 Climb greasy, blocky corner for 60′ to tree belay on right.
P.2 From tree belay climb up and left over steep, short section. Follow Diagonal ramp right and up to large overhang with good ledge underneath. 140′.
P.3 Traverse 201 left, climb crack/groove to overhang (20′). Turn overhang, then traverse 40′ R. to obvious crack/ corner. Ascend this to belay. 120′.
P.4 Climb groove to the right and join Diagonal where it meets No Man’s A Pilot 75′.
Ken Reville and George Carroll 8/26/83

Willmington Notch Area

**There Be Dragons 5.10 (e)
Between Moss Cliff and High Falls Gorge on Route 86 rises a steep buttress of rock on the east side of the road. In winter, the wall drips a large pillar of ice called Bombicle. To the right of this wall is a deep cleft in the rock containing a fine winter ice climb called Multiplication Gully. The rock climb takes a line directly up obvious twin, parallel hand cracks in the center of the rock buttress. Four pitches long, with rappell bolt at top. Start at Chimney and climb up until it narrows to 10′ wide. Continue up into twin cracks to top of route about 200′. “A most arresting climb,” said Don Mellor.
Don Mellor and Mark Ippolito 8/84

Pitchoff Chimney Cliff

Hidden Constellation 5.10+ pro (s)
Climbs the scrubbed wall right of PF Flyers.
P.1 Follow the lonely 5.5 up from the tree covered ledge. Past the Pete’s Farewell Traverse to shallow right corner. Up left and traverse to belay on Pete’s Farewell.
P.2 Hand traverse right (crux) 20′ to hard moves and enter crack to the top.
Don Mellor, Jim Cunningham/ and Bill Dodd 5/84

PF Flyers Flying Circus 5.7 A3 (d)
Direct start to PF Flyers.
P.1 Starts at the roof below the traverse of Pete’s Farewell. Aid out overhang, and begin freeclimbing on face, turn large roof to the right. Find arete and climb to belay on Pete’s Farewell.
P.2 Finish on PF Flyers.
Jim Cunningham and Mark Saulsgiver 5/84

Chuting Star 5.7 A3 (s)
Direct start to Star Sailor.
P.1 Climbs up the roof and crack 15′ to the right of Flying Circus. Wander up to the base of Star Sailor swath.
Mark Saulsgiver and Jim Cunningham 5/84

Cross Town Traffic 5.9 (e)
An upper level traverse of the cliff.
P.1 Climb up The Disputed, belaying at the birch tree at the top of Star Sailor.
P.2 Hand traverse 80, to diving board block on Pete’s Farewell second pitch.
P.3 Continue left 80′ under overhang to grassy ledge. Finish the crack.
Jim Cunningham, Bill Dodd, and Rich Leswing 5/84

Washbowl Cliffs

Fanq 5.10 (e)
From the base of Upper Washbowl Cliff wander left across a brushy slope until a small cliff is encountered that is equal in verticality to the Spider’s Web. The route follows the striking hand and finger crack in the center of the face and consists of three unrelenting 70′ pitches seperated by tree ledges. Pitch one is distinguished by a large cedar tree at the top of the crack. This climb is obscure but equal in quality to more visable routes on the Spider’s Web.
Tim Beaman and Slyvia Lazarniek

A Flight into Emerald City 5.7 A3 130′
At the top of the second pitch of the Weisner route you are standing on the lowest section of the Weissner Ledge. Look to the wall right of the ledge. It appears to be blank but offers a plumb line to the top of the cliff.
P.1 From the belay step left 201 to the wall and free climb small, slanting holds to bolt. Aid crack staying to the center right of the black water streak and onto the top. Be careful and know aiding!
Pat and Mary Purcell 9/83